Aluminum wheel corrosion - Spidering

[RandyH2]

That's what my wheels look like too. Ford Quality.

 

[CDW6212R]

This is interesting. It sounds like the OEM wheels have gotten worse since the 80's and 90's, not better.

I'm used to the factory clear starting to die after 5-10 years of decent conditions(not harsh salted Winters, just basic sun). So I look at OEM wheels as having a short lifespan, and the refinishing places are a big business right now.

I looked in here hoping to see what actual polished aluminum wheels need for care. I've just bought some used aftermarket wheels that have bare aluminum polished rims(center is clear coated). The rims will shine up with some hard labor hand polishing, but the Brown Royal wheel cleaner did "tarnish" some of the bare surface. I'd like to be able to take care of the wheels without say waxing them after every car wash, or re-polishing them with Nevrdull etc.

I'm betting that my wheels had some kind of surface protecting process done to the bar AL, like anodized side trim Ford used to put on cars. I guess I need to ask about that from a refinishing business too.

 

[RandyH2]

Wow! Nice looking wheels!

 

[ToxDoc]

Question-I have a brand new 2016 Ex Limited with polished alum wheels. Is there anything that can be done/applied to the wheels to help prevent this corrosion from happening?

 

[RandyH2]

Nothing you can apply to complete prevent it. Keeping the wheels waxed/coated so that road grime can't stick may delay the process. Being careful about how you clean the wheels- no abrasives, stiff brushes, etc. - will help protect the coating. Unfortunately, the problem likely starts from the metal side of the coating and works outwards. Any knicks, etc. (a piece of gravel, a careless lug wrench, etc.) are going to allow the process to start. UNLESS... Ford has improved their process or changed suppliers.
The sad truth seems to be that Ford has lost a lot of experienced production engineers or they have "gone cheap" on their production specs. Either way, the long-term durability of their products, at least those the '11-?? Explorer, has decreased. In light of the extended life-span of modern vehicles, perhaps this is an intentional effort to generate future revenue. "Make it last 6 years, long enough for the consumer to think they received a fair amount of use but not so long that it is still on the road in 12 years." Just a guess, obviously.

 

[funfool]

I have to agree that wheels only 2.5 years old should not have this problem.
As the owner stated, was a lot of extra money to order them.
Would go to the dealer and talk to them.

If I had to do anything I agree with another poster, having them blasted and then powder coated. Would be the best way to fix this IMHO
You would never need to fix it again, is my thought.

Just looking at the wheels on my '99 explorer, I just bought and not a chance to wash it yet.
My wheels are going to clean up nice and no corrosion on them.
So as another poster said, they probably had better quality control on the wheels back then.

 

[LukerDooker]

Nothing you can apply to complete prevent it. Keeping the wheels waxed/coated so that road grime can't stick may delay the process. Being careful about how you clean the wheels- no abrasives, stiff brushes, etc. - will help protect the coating. Unfortunately, the problem likely starts from the metal side of the coating and works outwards. Any knicks, etc. (a piece of gravel, a careless lug wrench, etc.) are going to allow the process to start. UNLESS... Ford has improved their process or changed suppliers.
The sad truth seems to be that Ford has lost a lot of experienced production engineers or they have "gone cheap" on their production specs. Either way, the long-term durability of their products, at least those the '11-?? Explorer, has decreased. In light of the extended life-span of modern vehicles, perhaps this is an intentional effort to generate future revenue. "Make it last 6 years, long enough for the consumer to think they received a fair amount of use but not so long that it is still on the road in 12 years." Just a guess, obviously.

For sure engineered products have a part life/durability calculation that is very lean to say the least and also decides the cost of the part or system.
Its all cheaper, thinner, lighter, and less thought out.
Constructed to fail or give out after X service hours.

Thank goodness crash testing is performed by agencies other than the manufacturers.

 

[Napalm]

Question-I have a brand new 2016 Ex Limited with polished alum wheels. Is there anything that can be done/applied to the wheels to help prevent this corrosion from happening?

yes there are a few things you can do.

STEP 1 - never ever take your car though an automated car wash - most likely will scratch the wheels.

Step 2 - check your wheel cleaner for safe to use on clear coats. - or even better don't use any.

step3 - when you trade our your brakes don't use semi-metalic high performance brake pads. (factory pads are usually a ceramic style)

step 4) wash your wheels by hand with a soft brush which you should do anyway.



I'd like to think Ford and their wheel supplier has probably learned a thing or 2 in recent years so perhaps it's less of an issue now.

 

[Napalm]

just since I guess not everyone knows much about AL.

That polish - isn't a normal state for any AL allow - even the higher nickel content ones.

dull grey/white is the normal CLAD COAT appearance of most AL alloys. Ti-AL alloys well look different but wouldn't be used to make a wheel we could afford.

so either polish your wheels - and keep polishing them occasionally or let them re-haze over. OR coat with clear coat. ALL polished AL wheels have a clear coat put on them

 

[GTED]

New wheels from Ford

After two separate picture taking dealer visits Ford informed me they would replace the wheels. I do believe this was the right thing to do under the 3 year warranty as all the clear coat had failed from the back of the spokes to the front.

 

[RandyH2]

Good to know they are taking care of you. I *REALLY* wish I had gone for the extended warranty.

 

[Professorfingers]

I have those plastic/metal wheels on my Edge and they have held up fine after 6 years. When I bought the thing, the dealership asked me if I liked them when I bought it. I said yes but then I went through a period of time wondering if I had made a good decision purchasing these (20"). Yes, there are scratches on them where I've rubbed against curbs, but overall I've been pleased. I wonder why these wheels aren't made anymore.
Anyway, aluminum wheels, has others have stated, corrode. No getting around this. They are lighter than steel wheels and it's hard to get chrome wheels these days. The clear coat that manufacturers use now are great, but you have to protect the clear coat. I think some folks try to protect the aluminum and with clear coat, that is the wrong approach.

JMHO,

TW

 

[182RG]

- or even better don't use any.

^ This ^

Zero reason to use wheel cleaner or anything on clear coated wheels. Zero.

 

[Professorfingers]

^ This ^

Zero reason to use wheel cleaner or anything on clear coated wheels. Zero.

Totally agree. Just use your auto wash liquid, whatever you are happy with and either a soft brush or (like I do) your wash mitt.

Seriously, that's all you need to do.

Have A Great Day,

TW

 

[GTED]

wheel weights

How about the clowns using 1930 style weights to balance tires. Not only are they ugly but they ruin the clear coat everytime.

 

[CDW6212R]

How about the clowns using 1930 style weights to balance tires. Not only are they ugly but they ruin the clear coat everytime.

Very true, plus the tire machines all use steel bars that have to separate the wheel from the tire. Those spin along the surface of the wheel rim(bead area), and they easily and often damage the edge of the wheel. They are supposed to be set next to the rim but now putting pressure onto it, but that would assume a level of care and skill by the operator, which rarely happens. Newer machine have plastic coated protectors etc, but careless operators fix that(idiots can screw anything up).

So be very careful when selecting a business to do you wheel and tire work. For nice wheels it's worth every cent to pay more to keep your wheels well taken care of. It's tough to do, but you should try.

 

[Napalm]

How about the clowns using 1930 style weights to balance tires. Not only are they ugly but they ruin the clear coat everytime.

stop going to those stores.

I mean if the appearance of your wheels - the things that get dirty anway - is that important to you. then you should watch the people at the tire store like a hawk.

some are well trained - most aren't. also more and more use the stick-on weights today - because it's more often repeat business. (they come off)

 

[GTED]

stop going to those stores.

I mean if the appearance of your wheels - the things that get dirty anway - is that important to you. then you should watch the people at the tire store like a hawk.

some are well trained - most aren't. also more and more use the stick-on weights today - because it's more often repeat business. (they come off)

I've never lost a stick on but I have lost old clamp ons.

 

[tinner]

I've never lost a stick on but I have lost old clamp ons.

+1

 

[tmg19103]

Problem is Ford "engineers" you did not clear coat the inside of the rims. Now corrosion is coming under the clearcoat from the back.

Sounds like the same issue with the hood paint bubble issue. Ford did not fully paint/clearcoat under the lip of the hood where a lot of water gets in when it rains.

Ford has been making cars for a long time. This just strikes me as shoddy production without good quality control all around.

It's common sense to fully paint and clearcoat any part of the vehicle that gets exposed to the elements where you don't want to see rust/corrosion and have your wheels/paint job ruined in short order. I have no prob with a thin layer of rust on metal parts in the undercarriage that you don't see, but to have it creeping onto your wheels and hood is unacceptable.