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Another 5.0L Miss Thread

410Fortune

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Oh man if only you had known before when you were in there you could have replaced them...

I assume a shop of this caliber is giving you a warranty?
 



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Cali' Explorer

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My thoughts exactly. That's one of the reasons I told the shop to Mag-Flux and Leak Test them before doing anything else, but they opted their way.

As for the warranty, they supposedly warranty all their work for 6 months or 6,000 Miles (neither of which I have seen yet). The question is, will they consider a cracked Cylinder Head a "Warrantiable" Item?

The Mechanic even admitted that its possible that the Heads aren't cracked, he just told me, form his experience with the symptons I'm having he's typically seen it been cracked heads (Specifically, cracks in and near the valves evidently?). He admitted though that until its pulled apart and tested, he can't say for sure.

So, we'll see how things go.
 






justanother1

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I have just found that you are having problems. I hope that your heads and block is ok since you didn't have any problem with coolant loss until the heads had been pulled. It seems that you have done everything properly. Hopefully your problem is a faulty gasket even though they are new with next to no miles on them.
 






Cali' Explorer

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Hey guys, sorry for now posting in a while. I have been so irritated with this whole thing, I haven't wanted to give my experience and final result.

Well, first off, it looks like the heads were machined incorrectly. After getting several companies/machine shops and the BAR involved, it looks like something was up with the original shop. The heads had a .006" (6 thousandths) gap on each side between a water jacket and a cylinder. There was also a .002 - .003 variance from port to port (intake to exhaust) across the whole head. I had 2 or 3 reputable shops take a look at the heads, and they all said that either the machine was wacked out, or the machinist basically ran it on a belt grinder to surface them. Long story short, it killed the motor.

Of course, the machine shop was insistent that I had done it and that there had to be way more then 120 miles on the heads. In the end, I ended up with a refund of my money from the head job ($350.00, whoopty do). The individual at the BAR and every shop I went to said there was no way it was my fault, but the hard part in small claims court is proving it, since there is no documentation of what I did and it was not done by another shop, so it would be my word against his.

In the end, I ended up with a brand new Ford/Motorcraft 5.0 long block. This includes the entire engine from the oil pan up to the lower intake. The only thing they used off my old motor is some of the sensors, and the upper intake and computer controls, etc... Whole job ended up coming in at $5300 which included all new tensioners and pulleys, a new waterpump, pressure testing and boiling/cleaning of the radiator and of course the new motor and installation.

The new motor has almost 500 miles on it now. I have to take it in next week sometime to have the first oil change done and have a few things tighten up (my damned exhaust leak which I had finally gotten rid of is back... *grumble*).

The good news is that the motor seems to be running strong. I have not had the backfiring above 4,000 RPM, although I do still get a slight pop when its shifting gears. I am going to have the shop check this out while they are doing the oil change and tightening up the exhaust again. In addition, I am going to try and find out what sensors were replaced with the motor, etc... I am still trying to track down exactly what caused my popping/backfiring in the first place. I think Glacier may also be able to help me with all his fancy Electronics tools (woohoo), so I will keep this thread alive as I continue my investigations.

My new question is whether or not I want to keep the X. It has just over 105k miles on it right now, and other little things seem to be having issues. The brakes need to be done again soon (I will not take it to a shop this time) and the transmission/transfer Case probably needs a looking at. The downside is I now have $5300 into for the new motor plus I still owe almost as much in loan payments on the thing. Only time will tell at this point. Part of me says keep it and run it till it blows again, the other part of me says get out while I can. With a little over a year left of college, I just need it to last me that long and then I can afford whatever. But, we'll see.
 






Turdle

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Oh man what a discouragement on your part. I would also be pissed, well actually I am. All this time and stress, with you double checking everything you knew you did correctly--terrible.
I am glad to hear you are ok--
Now that you are in so deep, these things that need done were needing done anyway. The major problem was causing the neglect. Fight the good fight!!
 






410Fortune

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KEEP IT you are in too deep now drive the hell out of that thing until it falls apart and then fix it some more! Thats how I do, I am not sure why yet but thats how I do anyways..
105K is less then half

I cannot believe it was the heads, but at least you have a new engine, hell yes.
 






Cali' Explorer

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I agree, I don't know if it was the heads completely. Especially not the initial problem, because even after the head work, it was still popping. But, then again, with water leaking into the cylinder chambers, that could have exacerbated the situation.

As for causing the cylinder walls to be etched, I can't say for sure on that either. I assumed that at some point in the process I had screwed up, and that's why I took it to the shop I did in the first place. But, with all the professionals I have talked to, including the mechanic who pulled the engine apart first, everything else appeared to be done right. Now, I have also thought about the fact that perhaps whatever was causing my other issues (popping, etc...) caused the Cylinder Walls to be etched. But, on the flip side, I had the popping for over 5k and the walls looked fine, and they became etched in only 120 miles.

One last thing, I wonder if somehow some chemical I used to clean the gaskets or something ate out the piston rings or killed something on the cylinder walls. I've heard that this can happen when you wash out the oil on the cylinder walls. Perhaps one of the chemicals prevented the oil from sticking to the walls properly and the rings/piston were not lubricated. All of this is of course just speculation/over thinking.
 






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