Another Newbie ? Front Door Locks & Guages

[oldnhfordman]

Another question or two about my recently purchased 94 Explorer XLT...

I posted a question about the front power door locks not operating. Thanks for the suggestions. But am I off-base here, is there a separate key for the 3 door locks (hatch & front doors) because my ignition key will not open my doors? The small time dealer that I purchased it from is clueless and if I remember correctly, the older trucks did have two separate keys.

If it is a separate key, can a Ford dealer cut me one or do I have to call a locksmith?

Also the temp and fuel gauges are not operating. I read on this forum that the gauge clusters in these trucks are problematic. Do you think it is the cluster or the sending units??? Muc appreciate the help. Thanks Folks!

 

[mr cribb]

Another question or two about my recently purchased 94 Explorer XLT...

I posted a question about the front power door locks not operating. Thanks for the suggestions. But am I off-base here, is there a separate key for the 3 door locks (hatch & front doors) because my ignition key will not open my doors? The small time dealer that I purchased it from is clueless and if I remember correctly, the older trucks did have two separate keys.

If it is a separate key, can a Ford dealer cut me one or do I have to call a locksmith?

Also the temp and fuel gauges are not operating. I read on this forum that the gauge clusters in these trucks are problematic. Do you think it is the cluster or the sending units??? Muc appreciate the help. Thanks Folks!

I (think) there's supposed to be 1 key to do it all.... I'd have a locksmith re-key it for you.

Gauge cluster:
there's a temp sensor for the gauge has 1 wire on it... it's cheap, I found one at AZ for $6.99. Try that first before you tear out the cluster, only cause tearing out the cluster is harder than replacing the sender.

Look for the shiny brass piece---- this is the temp sensor for the gauge cluster---- it's also the shiniest thing on my engine.

 

[Roadrunner777]

The factory configuration is for one key to work in all locks and ignition. Your possible moves are to:
1. Live with it.
2. Get a matching set of locks from a junkyard or LMC truck.
3. Locksmith (can they do this? and it might be cheaper to buy new?)
4. My personal favorite, install a remote start/lock kit. Then, you just press a button to unlock the doors.

It is very possible the failed gas and temperature gauges are coincidental. If you search on gas gauge, you will find at least 3 threads where I have explained how to diagnose the gas gauge with an ohmmeter. I see mr cribb has explained the temperature sensor.

Welcome and good luck!

 

[mr cribb]

I mentioned replacing the temp sender because it's cheap and easy and figuring you're like me w/ 200k mi truck.

AZ tried selling me the temp sender for 10.99 w/ a lifetime warranty... I laughed and said the factory one lasted 200k.... I think the cheap one will be just fine... and it is.

 

[Currency]

My guess is someone changed out the ignition on your explorer. Mine has problems and I have seen many with the same issues therefore that is most likely why they changed it out.

Yes a locksmith can cut you a key, a good locksmith can anyways. I have seen this done in a few minutes with the locksmith sitting in the seat with no ignition key and have the vehicle running pretty quickly. Guess it would be an easy way to steal one if you ever needed too.

I would personally just live with it and forgo the added expense of changing locks or hiring a locksmith. My single key works everything. Never had a glove box key though, and carry two sets of keys at all times. I generally have four working keys for my explorer on my person unless I am sleeping.

One time I stopped in at a local gas station, winter time and freezing outside, left the truck running and ran in for a fountain pop. Came back out and my doors were all locked but my hatch was not. I'm young so climbing to the back door to unlock it was easy, then reaching around to open the front door. That still puzzles me to this day. Opening the door unlocks them and I never just hit the door lock by mistake.

 

[oldnhfordman]

Update and FYI...
Pulled the door panels off and found that the wires were cut on both door actuators. So that was fixed. Then went to a fantastic locksmith yesterday and he said that for some reason, both doors key locks did not match the ignition or rear hatch lock. After some tumble analysis he was able to cut a correct key that matches both the doors and ignition. Just have to put the key upside down for the ignition to work.

I replaced the temp sensor and have not seen the temp gauge move much at all. Should it be reading mid-line? I am not messing with fuel gauge / sending unit as I am now suspecting I might have a faulty cluster. With a 94 at 75,000 miles, that surprises me.

At least I can now secure the truck when I drive into the tough areas of NH??????? Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

[mr cribb]

Update and FYI...
Pulled the door panels off and found that the wires were cut on both door actuators. So that was fixed. Then went to a fantastic locksmith yesterday and he said that for some reason, both doors key locks did not match the ignition or rear hatch lock. After some tumble analysis he was able to cut a correct key that matches both the doors and ignition. Just have to put the key upside down for the ignition to work.

I replaced the temp sensor and have not seen the temp gauge move much at all. Should it be reading mid-line? I am not messing with fuel gauge / sending unit as I am now suspecting I might have a faulty cluster. With a 94 at 75,000 miles, that surprises me.

At least I can now secure the truck when I drive into the tough areas of NH??????? Thanks for all the suggestions!

Yes the temp gauge should read directly in between R/M of NORMAL. This is if the thermostat is a 195*.

I installed a 180* in mine so it reads on the O/R of NORMAL.

and only 75k (6 digit odometer I presume) I can't imagine it being bad.

I pulled a 94 cluster from a junkyard one time (solely for the 6 digit odometer) and it was a bad cluster but it also had 212k miles. I chucked the cluster and used the speedometer since it's mechanical. I wanted the odometer so that it would reflect the actual mileage of my truck it had a 5 digit originally, but found history reports showing mileage.

The 94 cluster I pulled had all kinds of issues.... tach didn't work, all the gauges didn't work right either. My 92 worked correctly so I knew it wasn't my truck. I then took the cluster assembly apart used the speedometer, then used the original 92 gauges and tach.

So if you feel up to it, to keep it right.... grab you another cluster from a 91-94 explorer or 89-92 ranger, and use your speedometer in place of the JY one. (All of this is in assumption your 94 has a 6 digit odometer) It is 2 plugs, and the speedo cable running into the back of the cluster.

My suggestion is if you have a u-pull-it type of junkyard to take it out of a junker so you know how to do it on yours. The speedo cable is the hardest part, it's a twist and pull type, but you only have a few inches of room to play with.

 

[Roadrunner777]

Pulling the cluster, like a LOT of work on this truck, is challenging the first time. Probably a better word is puzzling. Do it once, and you will be an expert. Allow a couple of hours for your first try. I have done it twice, now I can have the cluster out in about 5 minutes.

 

[mr cribb]

Pulling the cluster, like a LOT of work on this truck, is challenging the first time. Probably a better word is puzzling. Do it once, and you will be an expert. Allow a couple of hours for your first try. I have done it twice, now I can have the cluster out in about 5 minutes.

I 2nd that.