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another timing chain question




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I am getting into this on my sister's Explorer, looks just like all the pictures that are shown here. One problem I am having is getting upper oil pan loose. I have taken out the eight bolts in the center and the bolts around the outside but it is not coming loose, is there anything I am missing?

Thanks,
 






I am getting into this on my sister's Explorer, looks just like all the pictures that are shown here. One problem I am having is getting upper oil pan loose. I have taken out the eight bolts in the center and the bolts around the outside but it is not coming loose, is there anything I am missing?

Thanks,

There are 2 bolts running horizontal that bolt to the back of the block
SWNusenfileGA1684A_gifgenref.gif
 






Can you get these out with the engine still in the vehicle?
 






There are pics on this thread to remove the oil pans on a SOHC...

2WD... You will apparently need to remove the front axle on a 4wd/AWD 2nd Gen to get to the pan...

Check out the pics in this thread to see if you got all the bolts out...

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=285701
 






Does anyone know if a universal tool will work for doing the timing on these engines or if I need to get the OTC 6488 tool kit?
 






Does anyone know if a universal tool will work for doing the timing on these engines or if I need to get the OTC 6488 tool kit?

I thought the timing was controlled by the ECu based on the CRANK or CAM sensor.
 






I am talking about when I change out the timing gears and chains, not ignition timing.
 


















Can anyone tell me if the bolt on the rear of the jackshaft is left hand thread or not? The corresponding camshaft bolt is and my DIY instructions stated that, but evidently that person did not remove this bolt. It is tight and I just want to make sure I am turning the correct way.

And does the intake have to come off to get the tensioner for the left cam chain out?
 






Can anyone tell me if the bolt on the rear of the jackshaft is left hand thread or not? The corresponding camshaft bolt is and my DIY instructions stated that, but evidently that person did not remove this bolt. It is tight and I just want to make sure I am turning the correct way.

And does the intake have to come off to get the tensioner for the left cam chain out?

rear jackshaft bolt is normal anti clockwise to undo. It is torque to yield so must be replaced. The upper intake needs to come off to remove the oil filled cam tensioner.
HTH
The right hand cam sprocket bolt is reverse thread.
 






Any suggestions on how to get the key out of the crankshaft so that I can install my new sprocket for the balance shaft chain.
 












Starting to get the engine back together now, one question, I am putting on the upper oil pan and getting ready to adjust eh threaded inserts. It seems to be an size 11mm Allen but I wanted to see if anyone knows for sure what size they are.
 






11 mm hex bit

Yes, an 11 mm hex bit is required. In preparation for installing the block cradle (lower pan reinforcement section) I needed an 11 mm Allen wrench or hex bit to back out the set screws (Allen inserts). As anticipated, my Allen wrench set contained no 11 mm size and my hex bit set jumped from 10 mm to 12 mm. So I reverted to what I've done in the past as shown below.
Allen11.jpg

My local fastener specialty shop provided me with a cap bolt having an 11 mm hex head and two 11 mm hex nuts. I tighened the nuts against each other on the bolt and used the device as a hex bit. I only had to torque the block cradle inserts to 27 in-lbs so the double nuts held on the bolt. For large torque values a bushing must be used instead of double nuts.
 






Thanks, had thought of that but wanted to make sure the 11mm was the correct size before I took off work to to the fastener shop.
 






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