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Anti-swaybar disconnects

any one have a picture of the finished prouduct?
 



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any one have a picture of the finished prouduct?

It will look exactly like it does in stock configuration, except that the bolts that hold the lower sway bar links to the axle are replaced by pins.

I used 1/2" hitch pins, which you can find at any Tractor Supply, or even a hardware store or home store like Lowes or Home Depot.

I shortened mine with a hack saw so that they just make it through the brackets, then re-drilled the hole for the pin.

Use something like this:

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/70990/icn/20-597955/speeco/p700211.htm

The ones in that link wouldn't even have to be shortened. They are already only 3 1/2" long. Perfect. You need two -- one on each side.

The pins go through the brackets that De Rocha painted red in this pic:

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=23264
 






It will look exactly like it does in stock configuration, except that the bolts that hold the lower sway bar links to the axle are replaced by pins.

I used 1/2" hitch pins, which you can find at any Tractor Supply, or even a hardware store or home store like Lowes or Home Depot.

I shortened mine with a hack saw so that they just make it through the brackets, then re-drilled the hole for the pin.

Use something like this:

http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/70990/icn/20-597955/speeco/p700211.htm

The ones in that link wouldn't even have to be shortened. They are already only 3 1/2" long. Perfect. You need two -- one on each side.

The pins go through the brackets that De Rocha painted red in this pic:

http://www.explorerforum.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=23264

thats for a front swaybar....this is about the rear....
 












Whoops...

Just get rid of it. You don't need a rear bar. Most vehicles don't have one.

well im going to be driving it on the highway in colorado when i move. shouldnt i have it then? and what about if i tow a jetski or 4 wheelers?
 






this really isnt such a big deal. take it off, drive it around. Put it back on if you want, leave it off if you dont mind.
 






alrighty.
 






FWIW,

I've towed over 8000# behind my 'Sploder without any anti-sway bars hooked up. I've also driven it from Louisville to Panama City Beach, to Pennsylvainia, to Wisconsin, and all points between. No big deal -- really. :thumbsup:
 






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will these pins work for both the front and the rear or will they not be strong enough?

lock1_big.jpg
 






Those should work fine, but you guys are missing the point. The REAR really doesn't even need a swaybar. I took the FRONT off first, that made the difference. With the FRONT off the vehicle's body will tilt a lot more when cornering, especially if you have bad shocks like I do. That is why i put my FRONT swaybar back on the other day.

I took the REAR swaybar off a while after i took the FRONT off. There was NO difference between FRONT OFF/ REAR ON and FRONT OFF/ REAR OFF, zero, nil. Other than a bit more travel in the REAR, about 2 inches worth of droop..

So, basically.

Removing the swaybars WILL NOT harm the vehicle.
Removing the FRONT swaybar WILL change the handling characteristics on the street.
Removing the REAR swaybar WILL NOT change the handling characteristics.
Making quick disconnects for the FRONT swaybar is a great idea if you drive on the street.
Making quick disconnects for the REAR would be a waste of time and money.
I recommend that you have good working shocks before removing the FRONT swaybar and driving on the street.

I hope this helps clear some confusion.
Yes I am a dick. Have a nice day. :D:thumbsup:
 






ok thanks ill try it and let u no how they work
 






The pins are strong enough -- similar to those used in the photo above -- but they are typically not big enough. It takes about a 1/2" pin to fit the hole.
 






Yes the bolts for the swaybars both front and rear I believe are 1/2" shaft with 3/4" heads. They should make those little clip things in that size, or very close, but they may be a bit expensive.
 






Just be aware that most of those pins are a grade 3. I couldn't find any grade 5 or 8 if I remember correctly. It's not very hard to just unbolt the front sway bar when you go off roading. I would keep the sway bars on and see how it works for you. Without the sway bars your brake lines and shocks will be what limits your droop unless you get longer brake lines and different shocks. Something to think about.
 






whats the easiest way to extend the front brake lines?
 






whats the easiest way to extend the front brake lines?

how much do you need to extend them? your better off to just replace them with some stainless ones. procomp makes some.
 






how much do you need to extend them? your better off to just replace them with some stainless ones. procomp makes some.

im not sure how much they need extended or if they even do but i disconnected my sway bars so i dont want to do to much offrading with it yet cuz i dont want to tear out my stock lines on the front.
 






im not sure how much they need extended or if they even do but i disconnected my sway bars so i dont want to do to much offrading with it yet cuz i dont want to tear out my stock lines on the front.

i have some extended lines for a 4 to 6 inch lift by procomp. summit racing has em for $110 or so...
 



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Just make sure when you make quick disconnects that the bolts/pins are not to long. I bought an jeep ZJ that had a custom quick disconnect and the pins were so long there was 2-3 inches of slop in each side and they would catch on other components and pop. I replaced them with a nut and bolt setup. I can disconnect/reconnect in the same time as someone does their quick disconnect with the pins.
 






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