Anti theft light flashing no start

[AdaMerlock]

Before I describe the issue keep in mind I just got it and it’s been parked 8 years non running for 5. I did all the pre start checks and finally got ready to bump the key. At first I thought the starter was frozen but I saw the anti theft light on. I learned it’s a pats system and understand it’s giving me a 16 code, this is with both keys I have. Also while the key is in the doors will randomly unlock. I think it is just unlocking not both. When the key is turned the radio, windows, lock buttons etc work

 

[donalds]

Check your battery for a dead cell and or bad connection
Look at the cables as well

The truck should crank just not start
The doors randomly unlocking also points to a bad battery

 

[AdaMerlock]

Check your battery for a dead cell and or bad connection
Look at the cables as well

The truck should crank just not start
The doors randomly unlocking also points to a bad battery

Battery is from another vehicle, a 650cca at 12.6v

 

[donalds]

Check your connections

 

[Mbrooks420]

You’ve got 2 separate issues. PATS doesn’t stop a second gen from cranking, it just kills the fuel.

 

[AdaMerlock]

You’ve got 2 separate issues. PATS doesn’t stop a second gen from cranking, it just kills the fuel.

Good to know, that’s not an issue since I pulled the relay assuming the gas is junk. Guess I got to crawl under and start smacking the starter

 

[Mbrooks420]

It’s still not going to start, but it’s a step in the right direction. I’d settle the PATS issue first, though.

 

[AdaMerlock]

It’s still not going to start, but it’s a step in the right direction. I’d settle the PATS issue first, though.

It’s still not going to start, but it’s a step in the right direction. I’d settle the PATS issue first, though.

I went out this morning and the starters free, still is flashing obviously, I left the battery connected with the key near hoping it’d figure itself out. I tried to scan it with a BlueDriver but it won’t connect. The light turns on but it thinks the vehicle is off. When I turn the key to start it when the light goes from solid to flashing the doors lock, when I turn the key off it unlocks.

 

[AdaMerlock]

I went out this morning and the starters free, still is flashing obviously, I left the battery connected with the key near hoping it’d figure itself out. I tried to scan it with a BlueDriver but it won’t connect. The light turns on but it thinks the vehicle is off. When I turn the key to start it when the light goes from solid to flashing the doors lock, when I turn the key off it unlocks.

Also, there is no spark. Not sure if pats cuts spark. Here is a link of the whole process, from putting in the key to when the code flashes

 

[J_C]

I'm confused. You linked to a video where it doesn't even crank, so how did you determine there is no spark?

PATS does not cut spark. Pats does not cut starter. Pats (in this generation) only shuts off the fuel injectors.

I was about to state that you probably need to program the keys, that it's forgotten them, but I am not so sure yet, if the system voltage is low then it may only be a temporary malfunction, and be causing the other phantom issues like locking and unlocking too. You told us about the battery condition but not the battery clamps, corrosion to the wires attached, or wiring elsewhere.

What does "and the starters free" mean?

 

[AdaMerlock]

I'm confused. You linked to a video where it doesn't even crank, so how did you determine there is no spark?

PATS does not cut spark. Pats does not cut starter. Pats (in this generation) only shuts off the fuel injectors.

I was about to state that you probably need to program the keys, that it's forgotten them, but I am not so sure yet, if the system voltage is low then it may only be a temporary malfunction, and be causing the other phantom issues like locking and unlocking too. You told us about the battery condition but not the battery clamps, corrosion to the wires attached, or wiring elsewhere.

What does "and the starters free" mean?

It does crank but not in that video, I made the video to show the gauge cluster and you can hear the power locks. I can make another of it cranking If that help. I pulled a wire off the coil and there’s no spark going from the coil to the wire. Wiring looks ok that I can see, i probed is he wires past the clamps and it’s getting full voltage. Negative wire has some corrosion but I cleaned the clamp and posts Saturday. What I meant by starters free was Saturday it wasn’t moving, I changed nothing with connections and it was getting 12.6 both days. Sorry if I didn’t word that the best if you need me to clarify something or try something I’m all ears. About the only thing I can’t mess with is I don’t want the pump to prime because I need to get the old gas out

 

[Mbrooks420]

I think I’d:
1. Hours unbothered gas out.
2. Pull the steering column cover and figure out PATS
3. Worry about the starter and whatever other problems there are.

 

[BobWiersema]

Before I describe the issue keep in mind I just got it and it’s been parked 8 years non running for 5. I did all the pre start checks and finally got ready to bump the key. At first I thought the starter was frozen but I saw the anti theft light on. I learned it’s a pats system and understand it’s giving me a 16 code, this is with both keys I have. Also while the key is in the doors will randomly unlock. I think it is just unlocking not both. When the key is turned the radio, windows, lock buttons etc work

I've had this problem before. The wire connection from the RFID receiver around the ignition gets yanked every time the wheel is tilted and eventually breaks. If you look under the steering column you should be able to find a little 4 wire connector from the ignition. Cut the connector out and splice the wires together. Mark them first I think two are the same color. Also undo the factory tie downs that hold it tight to everything so you have some slack in it.

 

[BobWiersema]

I've had this problem before. The wire connection from the RFID receiver around the ignition gets yanked every time the wheel is tilted and eventually breaks. If you look under the steering column you should be able to find a little 4 wire connector from the ignition. Cut the connector out and splice the wires together. Mark them first I think two are the same color. Also undo the factory tie downs that hold it tight to everything so you have some slack in it.

Also disconnect the battery first. The Pats transceiver has constant power.

 

[AdaMerlock]

I think I’d:
1. Hours unbothered gas out.
2. Pull the steering column cover and figure out PATS
3. Worry about the starter and whatever other problems there are.

Any good way on draining the tank? I’m not familiar with fords. Is all the pats stuff in the column?

 

[Mbrooks420]

The receiver is. The actual computer is behind the dash, I believe. Only way to drain it without the pump, is to pull the filler tube off the tank and siphon it.

 

[AdaMerlock]

Update kinda: finally when through and cleaned the inside to try and get some history on this thing. Both seats have a yellow plug unplugged underneath, from what I’ve looked up it may be side airbags or heated seats. I’m leaning on airbags since the lights on. I have no communication with the obd2 port, I get power but no connection. I’m going to pull the column apart today and see if I can find this receiver, also going to check connections to the pcm

 

[donalds]

Under the seat
Air bag
Plug them in

 

[AdaMerlock]

Under the seat
Air bag
Plug them in

Do I need to worry about unplugging battery or any wait time? I had a vw you had to be religious with stuff like that

 

[Fix4Dirt]

personally i would unplug and wait ~15 mins... dunno if its actually necessary, but never hurts to be safe!

Do I need to worry about unplugging battery or any wait time? I had a vw you had to be religious with stuff like that

also, not sure if this is of value to you, but ill leave this here Solved - Everything you wanted to know about PATS.