ARB Questions and price (yes I have searched)

[Nate1]

I am amassing about enough money to buy an ARB and get it installed profesionally for my 8.8, so I am beging to do some more research.

From my searching, it seems I should expect to pay about $650 for the actual locker itself.

Does this locker have its own R&P? People talk like it replaces the entire rear diff, and that it isnt a 'lunchbox locker', which I took to mean it fits over/in the old diff.
Also, I was reading a thread that mattadams posted (here: Dead Link Removed ) that the old models were commonly breaking under stress. I would prefer to not load my rear diff up with chewed up gears, so I am hoping that the extremly solid one has come out (as it seems it has, nobody seems to be complaining anymore.)
I know I will also be paying about $200 or so for the compressor, and a little extra for the tire inflation add-in.
So that puts me at about $850ish for parts.
I was wondering what I should expect as far as installation goes. I would like to get it done by a reputable shop, so if anyone knows any, suggest away! (FL only please)

I am hoping just (ha, I say 'just') $850 for the locker and compressor, and what, $400 for install?

Thanks guys, you are always so helpful!
-----Nate
[edit] Can a mod move this to the Modified forum, I got a little lost with 8 Serious Explorations windows open )

 

[Alec]

I don't think it includes the R&P, but an all new carrier to replace your stock carrier. You'll still need your own R&P.

And it seems that the old problems have been fixed and the new ARBs are very good units. Though for that price I'd prefer the new Eaton E-Locker which I think functions as an LS when switched off. But of course you don't get the cool compressor

 

[Nate1]

Originally posted by Alec
I don't think it includes the R&P, but an all new carrier to replace your stock carrier. You'll still need your own R&P.

I'm guessing that it will utilize my stock open 4.10s then? Carrier... time to go look for a pic in my Haynes.
-----Nate

 

[410Fortune]

your current 4.10 ring and pinion will remain

Welcome to the world of the selectable locker! I just put a ARB in my front diff a few months ago, finally got eh air and switches hooked up and had a chance to try it out in the snow up in the rockies, holy crap! I thought I had climbed some rough stuff before, no sir eee, I had not. ONce you go locked you will never go back is what they say...........
Your prices seem just about right, shop around it is amazing the difference in shop labor rates. Also dont just go to the person that quotes you the cheapest install price, go to somebody who you trusy even if it cost a little more and ask about a warranty on labor, proper break in proceedure, and find out where they plan to run the air line so you dont end up with holes in places you dont want them.

Youcan save a bunch of $$$ if you install the compressor, air line, wiring, and switches yourself, it is fairly easy to do and the instructions work great.

Dont expect the ARB compressor to pump up your 33" tires very quickly, this compressor is designed to run the lockers and it does that very well, but though it can be used to air up tires (I plan to) just be aware that it can take a while.

Eventually I plan to ditch the ARB compressor and install a true on board air setup converting my A/C system with an onboard tank, this will not only run the lockers and fill up tires, it will also keep up with air tools when setup properly. I couldnt wait that long so I settled for the ARB compressor to get me through a couple more seasons before I go all out with teh on board air (other projects take priority)

 

[Nate1]

410 Thanks, that answers alot of questions. A few more. If your air line does develop a leak, or the compressor breaks, what happens? My local 4x4 shop guy said that it stays in whatever position it broke on (if it leaks in locked, it will stay in locked untill new tubing is run, or vice versa). Is this true? I was under the impression that pressure was what caused it to lock, so a leak would just prevent it from locking... so basically I could drive it home and fix it in the event of an air-leak. Also, I was not very encouraged by my 4x4 shops refusal to install it b/c of the problems their customers had been having (he said with the air lines). I will run it myself, I was planning on putting the compressor in my driver side where the jack equipment is, somewhere in there on the inside of my car, that way it isn't in the elements too much. Also, I can just have a shop install it and drill and run the stuff thru my pumpkin, then goto a hardware store and buy some tougher steel mesh or some other kind of same-sized tubing and hook that onto the valve (for lack of a better word) cant I? ONE MORE, I swear. I have a 31 spline don't I? I was under the impression that Explorers were 31 and rangers were 28.

Thanks so much!
-----Nate

 

[Nate1]

Ahh yes, I can also drive to orlando if I buy from 4 wheel parts, so I think paying $679.95 for the locker and $199.95 for the pump is very reasonable since I won't be paying shipping. Also, who knows, if I tell them I am from explorer4x4's forums they might take a dollar or two off... it's worth a shot (Mabey my lazy ass should become elite before I do that).
Anyways, I'm thinking of driving to them so I know I'm getting the right thing, plus why pay shipping when you dont have to!
-----Nate

 

[Alec]

I think if the air fails the ARB goes open. And yes, do not rely on that compressor for your tires. I've seen them in action and that's why I went with a CO2 storage setup. Though I may need to upgrade to a larger tank as my little 5 pounder can't fill up my 33s that many times.

 

[TarHeel085]

one prob my local 4x4 guy said was that the locker itself has to run at a very high psi (like 70) for it to engage, so as soon as you lose the 70 psi it disengages and then when you get back the 70 psi its gonna re-engage. but what happens if your one wheel is spinning and your ARB decides to lock? can you say new R&P, cause its gonna tear the HELL out of it! thats whats good about the air lockers the the Rubi has, they run at 7 psi.

 

[Nate1]

The question is, why in the hell would you loose 70 psi unless you had an air leak? I think there is probably a way to set the pump to keep the pressure above X psi, and lets say I set it to 80. Okay, I hear the pump engage, back off, wait for it to finish repressureizing, and get back on it again. I have never heard of this before, that's why I am questioning your 4x4 guy, seems more people would have this problem. I'll ask around, mabey I will go electric or something like a more industrial/utility 12v compressor that will give me a little bit more saftey. I could proably end up sacraficing some trunk space for something like that. Thanks for the heads up though TarHeel better to wait than to spend 1k on something that is just gonna tear up my R&P.
-----Nate

 

[410Fortune]

here is how it works.

the compressor builds up a bunch of pressure in its own little tank (basically the body of the compressor) when you switch it on.
It has a pressure switch that automatically turns the compressor on and off as pressure drops (Like a normal full size air compressor)
With the compressor on and pressure up you flip the switch for the ARB locker to engage a little valve opens up and lets some pressure down the air line and into the locker.

Now you are locked.

As long as their is pressure in the line (foget how many #, not very many) you are locked.

When you switch off the locker (un lock) the valve opens up to outside air and pressure in the air line and locker are leaked to the atmosphere.

So if you develop a leak in the air line (not gonna happen if you route it properly) you will unlock the locker (no pressure, no lock) and return to your open diff.

I too wondered if the blue plastic air line that came with the compressor was gonna be adequate, I was assured by everyone that it holds up just fine. You can upgrade if you wish, it will just require a trip to a air tank specialty store for fittings and line.

The ABR compressor is made to be mounted in the elements, dont sweat it.
There is a perfect spot to mount these suckers on the Explorer, on the drivers side of the radiator support (next to drivers headlight between rad) On my BII there was a charcoal canister there, so I grabbed the charcoal canister bracket from an Explorer and used that to re-locate. The Explorer has the cruise control vacuum canister and charcoal canister mounted on a back to back bracket.

On the Ex I think there is the timing module or something mounted there, not hard to re-locate at all.
This is a good spot because the compressor is hidden, is mounted securly, is easy to route the harness and air line, is "right there" if you want to pump up something, and most of all it gets cooled when you are driving.

compressor installation is a matter of simply removing the grill and drilling 4 holes.


If it is an Explorer it has a 31 spline 8.8
Mustangs and Rangers have the 28 spline, however I believe all SOHC powered Rangers/vehicles have the 31 spline rear.

All 8.8 ring and pinions are interchangeable

the ARB locker kicks butt. I too heard of ploblems with the early models, but personally I do not know anybody who has broken one or ever had one fail to work properly.



Locked is fun! Worth every penny and I have only used it once to date....... I chose to get the front locker however, I need a selectable in the front diff because of the snow in Colorado, now that I have one I would also consider a rear ARB for the ultimate setup, but you could also get by with a cheaper permanent locker in the rear, especially with an automatic trans.......


4Wheel parts is running a special right now, spend $1000 get $100 off or something along those lines....

You may also consider a quick air II or equivelent compressor and a on board tank setup in leiu of the ARB if you plan to run full on board air. You will just need a restrictor valve and a some relays to run the ARB.
go here for that:
onboardair.com

I plan to remove the top of my BII in one way or another so I do not need my air conditioning, I will convert my old A/C compressor to a engine powered on board air setup, I may keep the ARB compressor to run the locker(s) because it works so well.

You can see tons of these type setups on Jeeps if you go to Google or Lycos and search for ON BOARD AIR
the Ford compressor is sufficient for this purpose, no need to try to locate a second compressor and fab up a belt, pulley and mount if you ask me.

Best part about it is that little button on my heater control panel that says A/C will now stand for Air Compressor.


Tarheel:

That is a good point. I plan to always be at a full stop when I lock and unlock the ARB.

The thing locks when you push the lock button, and unlocks when you push the unlock button, I think ARB's are considered vey reliable.
I dont see how the air line could get crunched, bent, or anything really the way it is routed.
I would hope my hub would fly off before the R&P give out, thank god I got Ford gears! hahaha!

I went ARB because I was lucky enough to know Brett who was parting out a 91 EX with front and rear ARB's, I think he gouged me for $200?? hahahaha!

 

[410Fortune]

Also....sorry so longwinded..........

The ARB compressor holds pressure for days.
I can litterally lock and unlock the locker 10 times and the compressor still does not come on, because it still has ample pressure to fill the line and locker.

It goes for weeks without needing to build pressure if you just use it for the locker, which leads me to believe that it is not leaking at all.

I bet it fills up water toys and air matresses real fast too!!!!

 

[Nate1]

This is why I love this site sooo much. Thanks for answering my questions. Now I need to get some prices and find someone I can trust... make $200 over the install costs to cover anything that might 'come up', and wow, I am getting this done.
While they are at it, should I get something like a new SVT diff cover for the back for strength? It can't hurt, what about are the prices of some good ones? (Are SVTs good, cuz I remember seeing one on this site and it looked goood!)
-----Nate

 

[Alec]

A rear cover/stud girdle would be a good idea do to while you're doing the ARB. There's the SVO one, the TA one, and the Summit one. The Summit one is the cheapest at $140, but Randy's gave me the TA for that price (normally $190).

They do tend to leak a bit from the girdle bolts, a little teflon and silicone and they're fine.

 

[Ray Lobato]

I have a Granatelli and the girdle bolts are inside the cover, so It never leaks.

TarHeel085,
I have gone wheeling for three days at a time and only once did the compressor come on, and that was when I first got to the distination. Make sure that who ever installs your ARB has done it before, because if they don't put the O-rings on correctly, it will leak after awhile. I love my ARB! Just wish I could get one for the front.