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Ball Joint Details

rikguy

Well-Known Member
Joined
November 12, 2001
Messages
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City, State
Altoona, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 XLT
I tried to get the X inspected and I was told that I needed upper ball joints. I took the X to another garage to see if I could pass before I got the work done. This garage said that I needed both upper and lower ball joints. This same garage had just replaced one on the lowers less than 3 months agao. They said that the uppers were so bad that they wore the lowers too.
Is this possible? The uppers are pretty bad, could they have caused additional wear to any others parts.
I priced uppers and can get parts for both sides for $115 so, I'm going to replace them myself. Is there anythin else that I should do while I'm at it? Any bushings, tie rod ends, anything else that easier to do while I'm in there?
Any tips on getting the new uppers on?

Thanks!
 



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Is it possible to wear out the lowers in 3 months? Yes ,but the lowers are easier to change than the uppers and if you are going to go through the trouble of changing the uppers, you might as well replace the lowers to. I would also check the tie rods to make sure that there is not slop in those either. I go through tie rods faster than ball joints, because offroading is a big strain on the tie rods.
 






Replace the ball joints with a greaseable ball joint. I have Moog on my Ex. I hear they out last Ford ball joints. Plus when the time comes to replace the uppers I can just replace the ball joint and not the entire control arm.
 






how is changing the uppers harder than the lowers? Dont you just pull and replace the control arm? How is that harder than removing and replacing all the lower parts? enlighten me ;)
 






slravene said:
how is changing the uppers harder than the lowers? Dont you just pull and replace the control arm? How is that harder than removing and replacing all the lower parts? enlighten me ;)
Agreed.I just did the passenger side in about 15 minutes and the drivers side in about an hour,only because I had trouble getting the bolts removed from the control arm bracket,dam brake lines and fuel lines anyways.Lowers just add about an hour a side.
 






I replaced just the uppers for now. The passengers side was pretty easy. The drivers side is a real paid to get the control arm bolts out. I re-istalled them backwards to I dodn't have to fish them thru all of the brake & fuel lines. It still took alot of time because there is not room to get a rachet in there. Had to tighted it up with a wrench 1/8 of a turn at a a time!
It's getting aligned right now and hopefully a new inspection sticker.
The passenger side had a grease fitting but the drivers didn't?
 






To add to this thread, I live in PA too and was told last week for my state inspection that I will need lower ball joints before next year's inspection.

I looked in my Haynes manual and my Ford Factory Shop Manual and both say that to replace the lower ball joints requires replacing entire lower control arm as well. This seemed to me like BS and that the head of Ford parts wrote the repair procedure.

Question: I see that Moog makes the lower ball joint with grease fittings. Can I replace just lower ball joints without replacing entire lower control arm?

Is it OK to use a pickle fork to remove old worn ball joints to speed up removal process? I realize pickle forks damage the dust boot when removing ball joints but so what if I am replacing anyhow. Could I damage something else such as the ball joint seat in the lower control arm? It sounds like from the other threads that the lower ball joints are tough to remove and was looking for a more effective means. Manuals say to use a pitman arm puller for removal.

What is the most safe, effective means to seat the new lower ball joint?
 






The UPPER ball joints require you to replace the control arm, the lowers, you can press out the ball joint and relpace it. You can rent a ball joint press from auto zone for free (they will hold a $100 deposit until you return it). I was going to do my own a few months ago but didn't have to time so I had a shop do them. The uppers weren't too hard to do. The drivers side is harder than the other. There's a great step by step on this site with pictures (for lowers). You'll have to search for it, I don't have it bookmarked.
 






What's a fair price to get this done?
I was told I need my inner and outer tie rods replaced-
$280 for the inner
$95 for the outter
$119 for alignment

Curious, what's the point of a lifetime alignment if you have to have another one when this is done? I just had one in July with new tires, now I have to pay to have it done again because of the tie rods, should I question that?

Thanks
 












Thanks for the warning. I'm definitely going to look around, it's so hard to find a good shop around here.

I'd like to try and do it myself, but I don't have the big jack needed, or really even the time right now.
 






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