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Ball Joints

huskyfan23

Rah no Hans Bwix
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Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT 4x4
I've decided to replace my ball joints. I notice everywhere I go when pricing them, has different Moog joints. One is for the Dana 28 and the other is for Dana 35. I chose Explorer 4x4 and all that, and it says both those will fit. Is this right?
 



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DANA 35

Lower: MOOG K8563 $26 ea
Upper: MOOG K8546 $27 ea

I got mine at Rock Auto

The Dana 28 and 35 joints are not same...The upper 28 joint is threaded while the 35 is not.
 






going through the same thing with the ball joints, were do i find if i have a Dana 28 or 35 (or can i see a difer between the threaded and non) its probly posted some were just can't find it. thanks
 






You have a Dana 35. As far as I have seen, ALL 1st gen Explorers had the Dana35.

The Dana 28 is more common on Rangers and Bronco II's. I think a lot of parts vendors get them confused, so they list both for the 91-94 Explorer.
 






DeRocha said:
DANA 35

Lower: MOOG K8563 $26 ea
Upper: MOOG K8546 $27 ea

I got mine at Rock Auto

The Dana 28 and 35 joints are not same...The upper 28 joint is threaded while the 35 is not.
Thanks. I remember buying my cams at Rock Auto.
 






And should I replace both upper and lower ball joints?
 






That is what I am doing husky, I have one that has lost the zip in it and going to replace both upper and lowers on both sides.
 






Question? Are most using Moogs over Motorcraft because of quality or price?
 






Quality. Quality. I have a new set of Moogs I haven't put on yet. Moog balljoints are actually made by Spicer. I'm not sure who makes the Motorcraft ones.

It's recommended to replace both upper and lower on both sides. Otherwise, 10,000 miles later you might end up having to tear down the other side to replace the old balljoints.
 






I would replace both uppers and lowers @ the same time. It doesn't make sense to replace just one if you're doing the work. Once you get the steering knuckle off pressing out the old and installing the new ones is fairly easy. It is the removal of the hub, wheel bearings, rotor, spindle, and axle which is the biggest pita. If you haven't checked your U-joints in a while then be prepaired to put in some new ones. After the axle is removed you should be able to move the joint around by hand. If the joint doesn't move freely then its needle bearings are rusted inside.. Good U-joints are about $12 and the "C" clamp tool (free autozone rental) is used for both U-joints and Ball joints.
 






The standard ford ball joints are sealed (NON-greasable), whereas MOOG has zerk fittings..
 






I have just recently changed my uppers and yesterday changed the lowers. I purchased the uppers from aa aftermarket supplier and the lowers were from Ford. Both were made by TRW. They're supposed to be a good brand. DeRocha is right, they are NOT greasable. One thing I might add though, my original uppers were TRW, where as the lowers were some other brand. I don't know if Ford changed suppliers or not. My Ex has 110,000km (69,000 miles) on it and all were absolutely stuffed. Time will tell if these new ones are better or not.
 






yes i have Moog balljoints in mine that i purchased from Carquest, and they have the grease fittings Thank God,

they were a little more expensive then other places, but i'm just glad they are made by Moog :)
 






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