Oversquare
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- June 14, 2004
- Messages
- 191
- Reaction score
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- City, State
- Wine Country
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '00 XLT 5.0 AWD
This week I dove in and installed my shift kit from Baumann Engineering. I ordered up the “ReCal-Pro†kit for the 4R70W, as well as the bypass clutch control valve. The kit is priced at $119, and $29 for the valve.
I also purchased a Deep finned aluminum pan from PML. It holds an extra 2+ quarts, as well as has a drain plug and is tapped and threaded for a temp sensor. The pan was $155, plus $15 extra for the tapping and threading. More on this later.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118026
I’ve installed shift kits before, mostly in old muscle cars. I also have extensive automotive experience and am confident in my abilities. I did this project in my garage with basic hand tools. So basically, know what you’re doing before you start.
I started the project on Monday night, with the goal to get the valve body off. The pan came off drama-free and I let the fluid drain out while I drank some beer(s).
HINT: lay LOTS of cardboard on the floor for your comfort, as well as to catch any spillage. Even if you think you have too much cardboard, you don’t. I used 2 full sized refridgerator boxes (stacked on top of each other) to keep my mess under control, as well as to give me some padding while laying on the cold concrete floor.
Before removing the valve body, you have to disconnect the sensors. Reading the instructions, I located the sensors. FIRST PROBLEM: the sensors are connected with one large plastic connector, not individual wires and clips. The instructions make no mention of this. I CAREFULLY pulled the plastic connector away using a small flat screwdriver.
When I finally got the valve body to release, I wasn’t expecting it to be so heavy. It is full of fluid, and everything is nice and slippery at this point. I lost a bolt in the pan I was using to catch the fluid (I later pulled the bolt out), and also knocked loose a small filter, and a spring and round retainer that mount inside the trans.
The Valve body came apart as expected. HINT: To help remove the gaskets I used a dull putty knife to slip between the valve body and the gaskets. This removed them in one piece and did not leave any residue on the metal surface. Be sure to not scrape the metal surfaces.
Time for the shift firmness selection. My goal was for quicker shifts, but not anything so firm as to upset my “better halfâ€. I want something I can be happy with, and have a woman drive without concern. Of the 5 available selections, I choose Stage *2* (Mild).
Of the first 4 designations of where to drill, #C and #D are not present in my valve body plate. I did not add these holes or make any modifications to these. #E I used the #2 drill bit.
#F offered a bit of confusion. There are “large style†and “small styleâ€, determined by how well the #1 bit will fit though the hole. Well, the #1 fit through, but with no room to spare. The instructions state that it would either NOT fit, or fit WITH room to spare. I was in a pickle. I decided to use the #3 drill bit to enlarge the #F hole.
Step #4, I replaced the stock bypass clutch control valve with the aftermarket one, since you have to remove it anyways.
For steps #5 through #7, I used the “A†setting as a guideline.
I did not go through with Step #5 – 1-2 shift firmness and torque correction. I couldn’t find my snap ring pliers, and can do this step later with the valve body in place if necessary.
I did not go into the servo torque correction steps. I’m not making enough extra TQ to worry about it.
Everything went back together well – although I was confused how far to push the Accumulator Retainer into place. I finally just barely pushed it into place to hold the spring, then put the valve body back on. The small triangle filter that fell out when I removed the valve body did not go back inside. I couldn’t get it to stay while I reinstalled the valve body. I don’t think it will be missed.
With the valve body back in place, and the bolts torqued, gaskets cleaned, and a new filter installed it was time for the new pan.
PML deep sand cast aluminum trans pan. I was initially very impressed with the pan. It is very will built, and looks to be a quality piece. It wasn’t until I installed it did I find the fatal flaw…
(Pics of pan are available, just can't post them)
The drain and temp sending unit holes are on the side closest to the exhaust. And they are CLOSE! I don’t have a sending unit in the hole, but I doubt one would fit between the pan and the pipe. And the drain plug will empty right into the exhaust pipe heat shield, creating a long lasting burnt trans fluid smell as you drive.
Since the Exploder is one of the few that use the 4R70W pan bolt patterns, why didn’t they cast the holes in the opposite side – where there is ample access to them?!!? The world may never know…
HINT: Clean the stock magnet in the stock pan, and place it over one of the “posts†in the PML pan. This will give you added magnetic protection, and the magnet won’t float or move around in the pan. HINT#2: Reuse the "reuseable" factory gasket. It has a metal core and works great!
I initially bought 10 quarts of Valvoline Mercon V fluid. I filled the trans with 6, and started it up. The trans would not go into gear – not good. I then added the other 4 quarts, and it did go into gear, but was slipping horribly. 3 more quarts later, the trans was finally full and driving beautifully.
Overall, I’m happy with the shift quality that I choose. The WOT up-shifts are noticeably quicker, but not at all harsh. The downshifts are crisp and smooth – no jerky here. The part-throttle shifts are improved too! I think I’ve made a great trans even better, and the woman will never know…
If I were to do it again, and didn’t have the “woman†factor, I would have probably installed the Stage 3.
I would give the Baumann ReCal-Pro shift kit an 8 out of 10 overall. The parts were all labeled and even included the necessary drill bits. The instructions were very good, but not the best (see #F and electrical connections). The most daunting task is overcoming the fear of making a small mistake – which is amplified into a big mistake when working with a sensitive transmission. The price is fair for one of the most thought-out trans kits available. http://www.baumannengineering.com/
I would give the PML Deep Trans Pan a 6 out of 10 overall. Excellent construction, great customer service and several options (raw, plated, polished, deep, shallow, hole tapped, etc). All hindered by a high price to pay for a fatal flaw in hole locations. A larger trans cooler may be a better idea (and cheaper). http://www.yourcovers.com/
The whole install took about 6 lazy hours in my garage. If I were working back at the shop, I would have billed an easy 3 hours labor to complete this install.
-Brad
I also purchased a Deep finned aluminum pan from PML. It holds an extra 2+ quarts, as well as has a drain plug and is tapped and threaded for a temp sensor. The pan was $155, plus $15 extra for the tapping and threading. More on this later.
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=118026
I’ve installed shift kits before, mostly in old muscle cars. I also have extensive automotive experience and am confident in my abilities. I did this project in my garage with basic hand tools. So basically, know what you’re doing before you start.
I started the project on Monday night, with the goal to get the valve body off. The pan came off drama-free and I let the fluid drain out while I drank some beer(s).
HINT: lay LOTS of cardboard on the floor for your comfort, as well as to catch any spillage. Even if you think you have too much cardboard, you don’t. I used 2 full sized refridgerator boxes (stacked on top of each other) to keep my mess under control, as well as to give me some padding while laying on the cold concrete floor.
Before removing the valve body, you have to disconnect the sensors. Reading the instructions, I located the sensors. FIRST PROBLEM: the sensors are connected with one large plastic connector, not individual wires and clips. The instructions make no mention of this. I CAREFULLY pulled the plastic connector away using a small flat screwdriver.
When I finally got the valve body to release, I wasn’t expecting it to be so heavy. It is full of fluid, and everything is nice and slippery at this point. I lost a bolt in the pan I was using to catch the fluid (I later pulled the bolt out), and also knocked loose a small filter, and a spring and round retainer that mount inside the trans.
The Valve body came apart as expected. HINT: To help remove the gaskets I used a dull putty knife to slip between the valve body and the gaskets. This removed them in one piece and did not leave any residue on the metal surface. Be sure to not scrape the metal surfaces.
Time for the shift firmness selection. My goal was for quicker shifts, but not anything so firm as to upset my “better halfâ€. I want something I can be happy with, and have a woman drive without concern. Of the 5 available selections, I choose Stage *2* (Mild).
Of the first 4 designations of where to drill, #C and #D are not present in my valve body plate. I did not add these holes or make any modifications to these. #E I used the #2 drill bit.
#F offered a bit of confusion. There are “large style†and “small styleâ€, determined by how well the #1 bit will fit though the hole. Well, the #1 fit through, but with no room to spare. The instructions state that it would either NOT fit, or fit WITH room to spare. I was in a pickle. I decided to use the #3 drill bit to enlarge the #F hole.
Step #4, I replaced the stock bypass clutch control valve with the aftermarket one, since you have to remove it anyways.
For steps #5 through #7, I used the “A†setting as a guideline.
I did not go through with Step #5 – 1-2 shift firmness and torque correction. I couldn’t find my snap ring pliers, and can do this step later with the valve body in place if necessary.
I did not go into the servo torque correction steps. I’m not making enough extra TQ to worry about it.
Everything went back together well – although I was confused how far to push the Accumulator Retainer into place. I finally just barely pushed it into place to hold the spring, then put the valve body back on. The small triangle filter that fell out when I removed the valve body did not go back inside. I couldn’t get it to stay while I reinstalled the valve body. I don’t think it will be missed.
With the valve body back in place, and the bolts torqued, gaskets cleaned, and a new filter installed it was time for the new pan.
PML deep sand cast aluminum trans pan. I was initially very impressed with the pan. It is very will built, and looks to be a quality piece. It wasn’t until I installed it did I find the fatal flaw…
(Pics of pan are available, just can't post them)
The drain and temp sending unit holes are on the side closest to the exhaust. And they are CLOSE! I don’t have a sending unit in the hole, but I doubt one would fit between the pan and the pipe. And the drain plug will empty right into the exhaust pipe heat shield, creating a long lasting burnt trans fluid smell as you drive.
Since the Exploder is one of the few that use the 4R70W pan bolt patterns, why didn’t they cast the holes in the opposite side – where there is ample access to them?!!? The world may never know…
HINT: Clean the stock magnet in the stock pan, and place it over one of the “posts†in the PML pan. This will give you added magnetic protection, and the magnet won’t float or move around in the pan. HINT#2: Reuse the "reuseable" factory gasket. It has a metal core and works great!
I initially bought 10 quarts of Valvoline Mercon V fluid. I filled the trans with 6, and started it up. The trans would not go into gear – not good. I then added the other 4 quarts, and it did go into gear, but was slipping horribly. 3 more quarts later, the trans was finally full and driving beautifully.
Overall, I’m happy with the shift quality that I choose. The WOT up-shifts are noticeably quicker, but not at all harsh. The downshifts are crisp and smooth – no jerky here. The part-throttle shifts are improved too! I think I’ve made a great trans even better, and the woman will never know…
If I were to do it again, and didn’t have the “woman†factor, I would have probably installed the Stage 3.
I would give the Baumann ReCal-Pro shift kit an 8 out of 10 overall. The parts were all labeled and even included the necessary drill bits. The instructions were very good, but not the best (see #F and electrical connections). The most daunting task is overcoming the fear of making a small mistake – which is amplified into a big mistake when working with a sensitive transmission. The price is fair for one of the most thought-out trans kits available. http://www.baumannengineering.com/
I would give the PML Deep Trans Pan a 6 out of 10 overall. Excellent construction, great customer service and several options (raw, plated, polished, deep, shallow, hole tapped, etc). All hindered by a high price to pay for a fatal flaw in hole locations. A larger trans cooler may be a better idea (and cheaper). http://www.yourcovers.com/
The whole install took about 6 lazy hours in my garage. If I were working back at the shop, I would have billed an easy 3 hours labor to complete this install.
-Brad
I am running stage 3/3. I also agree with expo, this is the best mod-per-dollar thing you can do on the V8 Explorers.... other than cutting up the airbox i guess.... which is technically free. 
