Solved - Belt bypass '97 5.0 -Duralast 835K6 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Solved Belt bypass '97 5.0 -Duralast 835K6

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kfarny

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February 2, 2007
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City, State
Vancouver, Wa.
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 Explorer LTD
It is much easier if it is right in the title, huh?
Thanks to AMMO_HOOAH for this info.
It was a real life saver.
 



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Say what now?
Belt bypass to me would be a part that allows you to remove the ac compressor from the 5.0L accessories and run a different belt, Duralast part number 835KG?

Is this what that means?
 






Would that help gas mileage any? My A/C isn't charged right now, so I may as well bypass it if it'll help some.
 






Do you have an actual leak or did it just bleed out over time? Recharging them is easy, and probably comparable to a belt.
 






Engine was pulled, so the system was completely evacuated.
 






Yes, that is the part # for the shorter belt that allows you to take the pump out of the pulley loop.
My pump froze up, so that was my only option.
As far as I can tell it provides no noticeable MPG improvement. I drive 56 mi. a day.
 






As far as I can tell it provides no noticeable MPG improvement. I drive 56 mi. a day.

Isn't this basically doing the same as an underdrive pulley?
 






there's no mileage improvement. your mileage will go down if it's hooked up and ON, but if you bypass it, mileage will stay the same as if the ac compressor is hooked up and turned off.

mine's been bypassed for years, mileage didn't change.
 






I don't understand why the mileage would stay the same. An underdrive pulley improves mileage, so why wouldn't removing A/C from the belt? By removing the A/C pulley, there's less drag on the belt... that's good isn't it? I guess I'm missing something.
 






I don't understand why the mileage would stay the same. An underdrive pulley improves mileage, so why wouldn't removing A/C from the belt? By removing the A/C pulley, there's less drag on the belt... that's good isn't it? I guess I'm missing something.

When the A/C isn't engaged, its just a pulley that rotates freely. The pulley isn't driving anything and so the drag is minimal.
 












When the A/C isn't engaged, its just a pulley that rotates freely. The pulley isn't driving anything and so the drag is minimal.

Ah, that makes sense then. Although, I would have thought even with the A/C disengaged there would still be resistance in the pulley just by the mere fact that it isn't an idle pulley. The pulley is still connected something inside the A/C unit. But perhaps the drag is just to insignificant to really make any difference.
 






It makes a difference, it's just not very significant. If you add up a bunch of different things it would. Look at Aldive's progress. Every little thing helps. I would never lose my ac, unless the entire system failed. Then I would be very sad.
 






I would have thought even with the A/C disengaged there would still be resistance in the pulley just by the mere fact that it isn't an idle pulley. The pulley is still connected something inside the A/C unit.

There is an electromagnetic clutch. If power is not applied, the only resistance is the bearings for the pulley.
 






There is an electromagnetic clutch. If power is not applied, the only resistance is the bearings for the pulley.

Ah, gotcha.. so there really isn't any extra friction when the A/C is disengaged.
 






But there is some! IN theory it does make a difference, at the gas pump it does not.

I was under the impression you could not just run a shorter belt on the 5 oh... my bad!
I have my compressor mounted on my BII because of this, but I am about to run the rest of the ac system to it, so it can stay...

for the last two years I could have run without it!
 






i need some help!!!!! my awd system on my ford exploer 97, wondering if anyone knows if i could bypass the driveshaft that goes from the front ax to the torque converter, i was just going to take it out but didnt know if it would do harm if i was only using the rear wheel system.
 






Welcome to the site. You would have better luck posting a new thread. But I assume you mean the front drive shaft between the differential and the transfer case. You can remove this and drive the truck. Some will say this isn't good, and they may be right. I did, and drove the truck for quite a while. I replaced the shaft and my AWD still works. I would avoid getting the cheap Cardone brand front shaft replacement. This shaft will fail in short order. The auto stores usually call the front driveshaft a "prop shaft". Beware the truck WILL roll very slowly in park without the shaft in. Block a tire when parking unless if is TOTALLY flat.
 






This is the info I needed. Thanks much for the post.
 



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