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Bent #8 exhaust valve

htsmeister

Member
Joined
May 24, 2009
Messages
33
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6
City, State
Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Limited,1996 Limited
Hi all,

Well, proud to say I finally got my '06 Limited back on the road. Unfortunately, after a week, it is down again.

Long story short, pulled the engine to do the exhaust manifolds as I just could not get the manifolds off while it was in the vehicle. While I was in there, I did front and rear seals, oil pan, oil filter housing gasket, timing set including phasers, and general tidiness. Even converted to full synthetic (I like Castrol). The intake was not pulled.

After a week, all good, so gave it back to the wife. She takes it out for the first errand. On the way back home, the serpentine belt shredded, whipped around and broke the left cam position sensor connector, and destroyed the fan connector. Got that all fixed (had to eliminate fan connector) and all seemed good.

Now the fun begins...

Took it out for a long drive through the country roads. No issues. Once I got to the freeway (about 20mins away), I stomped on it. No issues. No issues with cruising or passing. Turned around at the next exit (about 2 miles), and stomped on it again. At about 4500rpm, the engine appeared to cough, then it started ticking. Coasted to the next off ramp in neutral and pulled over; It sounded mechanical, from left side valve train. Limped it home.

Fast-forwarding a bit... pulled the valve cover, found bent exhaust valve on #8. See images.

bent valve top view1.jpg
bent valve side view1.jpg



Additional backstory:
> After a few days of driving after the post-install startup, got P2015 a light misfire on #8 cylinder. Swapped positions plugs (#7.#8); no change. Restored plugs, swapped coils; no change. Wiggled the fuel injector and problem went away. Maybe just a small leak. at the o-ring...

Root cause?
1. Hypothesis #1: Since the #8 cylinder seemed to have early warning sign, perhaps the valve was bent slightly when popping off this rocker (along with intakes on #5) to relieve stress on the cam for the phaser and timing chain replacement. This seems like the most likely suspect.
2. Hypothesis #2: Something happened to the intake manifold charge plate for #8 (e.g. came loose, dropped a screw). No damage or scratches noted on the spark plug. I do not have a bore scope and even with a mirror, I can't really see down in the cylinder.
3. Hypothesis #3: Serpentine belt break caused some issue with timing when it knocked off the cam position sensor. Seems like more than one valve would have been affected.

At this point, it is clear that the head needs to be removed and the cylinder inspected.

Some questions:
1. Any other ideas here on what happened?
2. Assuming the head and piston are basically ok, is it cheaper to buy a a refurb head or get it done locally?
3. If anyone has purchased a refurb head, any recommended source for quality and good price? I see Rock Auto has them.
4. Anyone have experience with new heads without doing anything on the bottom end? Vehicle has 182k, but has always been well maintained and is near mint condition. No plan to sell. I am hesitant to do a compression check on the other cylinders with the bent valve situation. when I did the oil pan gasket, I checked out the crank and didn't see any issues with freeplay or wear.
5. What about just replacing the valve, guide, and seal? Kind of seems silly not to do all.
6. What are the (mechanical) risks of only doing one head? Not trying to cheap out, just trying to work out the budget and the time.
7. Do in car or pull engine?
8. Bag it all and buy another engine? New heads and associated parts (no labor) ~$1200. Seems I can pick up a used one with low miles for ~$1000-$1500. Might cheaper from wrecking yard. Value of vehicle ~9k, but it has sentimental value (I can hear the laughter now...), so no plan to sell.

Thanks for any and all input.
 



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If you are going to go in for all the work to refurbish a head, why not do both?

I refurbished both heads on my Tahoe a couple of years ago. I removed them, took them to a machine shop and had them do all the valve work. The cost came to about $2000 to have both heads refurbished, one head being replaced due to being cracked.

What I am suggesting is that a machine shop refurbishing your heads shouldn't cost much more than buying two low mileage heads, and you will know the heads are good. The guy at the machine shop said that new heads through places like Rockauto can be hit and miss. That may or may not be true, but at least I know the work at the machine shop was guaranteed, and I know they leak tested them.
 






$9K for a 2006 with 182K miles?

If that's true, I might put mine up for sale. Only 160K miles.;)
 






I would guess the lifter was "pumped -up".
I have always "bled down" the old lifters when replacing
rockers. If not, the can over adjust (pump-up) and the
exhaust valve falls in love with a piston.
 






I would guess the lifter was "pumped -up".
I have always "bled down" the old lifters when replacing
rockers. If not, the can over adjust (pump-up) and the
exhaust valve falls in love with a piston.
Hah, maybe it was as pumped up as me at the time.

Update: So I think I have root cause. Seems my memory decided to refresh itself suddenly at 2:45am a few months back. When I was reinstalling the rocker arm on that valve, it didn't just slip in place like the others. Side note, this is following the reverse ford trick to pull a off a few rocker arms to release the pressure on the cam for timing work (google it). I remembered I had to force it a bit. I'm 99.9% sure I bent the valve at that time. It just took a few miles before it reached the point of failure. Expensive mistake.

My rig is still down, but I have been plugging away at the parts, prep, and the cleaning. Berryman's Chemtool gallon can worked really well for cleaning the carbon off my CMCP's (soak half at time in a well ventilated area). That and a little elbow grease with carb cleaner and a small toothbrush made 'em clean as new. Got a one-hole wonder done on the head (new valve, guide), new valve seals all around, and light shave on the head surfaces just to clean it up a little (~$150). Got my 3m bristle brushes and ready now to start cleaning up the block. Feeling pretty good about it all so far. I'll update again after the repair and a few 1000 miles. Cheers!
 






Try the can of BLUE easy-off oven cleaner!
DO NOT USE THE YELLOW can!!

Blue will eat carbon not your hands and parts...
It might eat paint somewhat too IIRC but, I've slept since then
 






Get a used engine, swap the new timing from the old one and you should be good.
 












Sounds way more expensive than $150...
Almost picked up a used engine a few months back at a u-pull it. I decided to dig into mine first to see what the problem was. Now I know. I'm doing all the work with the engine in the car this time. If I have more issues or another major issue, I'm going rebuild route through Fraser engines. It will be spendy, but this particular vehicle is in extremely good shape and well-cared for all it's life. The engine has mostly seen highway miles as well. The shop that did the one-hole wonder thought it maybe ha 80k on it instead of 180k.
 






3v rockers are flimsy, there is a TSB actually to replace all of them if there is any noise or play. Maybe you have a bad rocker?
 






3v rockers are flimsy, there is a TSB actually to replace all of them if there is any noise or play. Maybe you have a bad rocker?
thanks. The old one appears to be fine. Either way, I got a new rocker too for that valve just to be sure. Can you post the TSB?
 












Hah, maybe it was as pumped up as me at the time.

Update: So I think I have root cause. Seems my memory decided to refresh itself suddenly at 2:45am a few months back. When I was reinstalling the rocker arm on that valve, it didn't just slip in place like the others. Side note, this is following the reverse ford trick to pull a off a few rocker arms to release the pressure on the cam for timing work (google it). I remembered I had to force it a bit. I'm 99.9% sure I bent the valve at that time. It just took a few miles before it reached the point of failure. Expensive mistake.

My rig is still down, but I have been plugging away at the parts, prep, and the cleaning. Berryman's Chemtool gallon can worked really well for cleaning the carbon off my CMCP's (soak half at time in a well ventilated area). That and a little elbow grease with carb cleaner and a small toothbrush made 'em clean as new. Got a one-hole wonder done on the head (new valve, guide), new valve seals all around, and light shave on the head surfaces just to clean it up a little (~$150). Got my 3m bristle brushes and ready now to start cleaning up the block. Feeling pretty good about it all so far. I'll update again after the repair and a few 1000 miles. Cheers!
 












What was the repair? Did you just replace the valve and rocker?
 






Hi 410,

ah, the answer was a little bit buried.

"Got a one-hole wonder done on the head (new valve, guide), new valve seals all around, and light shave on the head surfaces just to clean it up a little (~$150).

I convinced the shop owner to just do the one valve, guide, seat, but without a warranty and paid cash. I've taken several heads in there over the years, so I have a good relationship there and had no worries in taking the chance. Fortunately, it paid off. And yes, I bought 1 new rocker arm.
 






All I got to say is you are a real trooper. If I did all that work to pull the engine and do the timing and other things and then bent a valve, it would have been hard to keep at it. Working on these things isn't like working on a 60s car. Good job.
 






All I got to say is you are a real trooper. If I did all that work to pull the engine and do the timing and other things and then bent a valve, it would have been hard to keep at it. Working on these things isn't like working on a 60s car. Good job.
Thanks B. It helps that I had a backup car while this one was down. A little bit each day adds up. I'm really hoping this rig will make it to 300k. :)
 






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