Best (Non Melting) Plug wires for a 97 5.0 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Best (Non Melting) Plug wires for a 97 5.0

Smoke92

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February 12, 2012
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City, State
Montana
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997 5.0 AWD
Hey guys, I just purchased a 97 Explorer 5.0 AWD. It has 77,000 miles on it and appears to have the factory plugs and wires on it. I am planning on using OE motorcraft plugs. I was wondering what you guys consider to be the best plug wires available. I have been doing some searching and I see that the wires melting to the tubular exhaust manifolds seems to be a problem. I was thinking I would just put on new Motorcraft wires, but is there anything better out there? Its a job I dont want to do again lol. I thinking of running some LiveWires, and getting those braided metal heat socks over the ends. Let me know what you guys think. Thanks.
 



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I would only use Motorcraft wires!
 






They met only when the little clips that hold them in place break and leave the wire to touch the manifold.
No wire can deal with that. Just check the clips. Original wires can last more than you think (mine have 100k and 11 years), spark plugs are the ones that wear out.
Motorcraft plugs are just OK, I never liked them. Autolite Iridium (XP104) or even better NGK Laser Iridium (ITR5F13) are what I use now in my Fords (V8 5.0L).
 












The right ones have already the shield on. Similar with this:

51PlziLVx5L._SL500_AA300_.jpg


http://www.amazon.com/Prestolite-12...omotive&Make=Ford|54&Year=2001|2001&carId=001
 






For the best price are the duralast wire from autozone and if you want added protections just buy the spark plug sock..
 






Yeah, but best price isn't always the best choice. Accordingly, that factors into pretty much anything involving the ignition system in an Explorer. Buy Motorcraft and buy them once.
 






Doesn't Aurora (sp) make the best replacement wire for our 5.0s?
 






Doesn't Aurora (sp) make the best replacement wire for our 5.0s?
That's what I heard, but they melted on my headers even with the boots on them.
 






Doesn't Aurora (sp) make the best replacement wire for our 5.0s?

They're great wires, but don't withstand "header heat" that great. I've toasted my share. :(
 






What about if I don't have headers? I'm replacing mine soon so should I go with those or some OEM motorcraft replacements? Those are the only two choices I'll be getting.
 






i have shorty headers on mine and i have motorcraft wires on it like everyone is saying i had aftermarket ones on and they made my engine run more rough then usual i assume it cause they didnt have the resistance capabilities of the oem wires so in my opinion no matter what upgrade stick with the motor craft wires
 






Sounds like I will be sticking with motorcrafts. Thanks guys.
 






i would have to agree,go with the oem wires .i have seen them go 100k miles of use so how can you go wrong there?
 






I have been running duralast wire for while now and have had no problems at all and have had them in many other vehicles with no problems and personal I can't justify spending almost double the money for oem wire .....
i would have to agree,go with the oem wires .i have seen them go 100k miles of use so how can you go wrong there?
My factory wires had 154,000 miles on them
 






Bumping this thread. I bought the JBA wires and they work(ed) great for a while. But the boots kinda big and cylinder 7 (drivers side fire wall) it touches both headers? I put three socks on that thing and the wire and it still burned the thing. Also the wire is slipping out? I was driving one day and he thing like shot out, weird. JBA wire seem to work better with aftermarket plugs it seems.

I like motorcrafts allot but they just don't give you that umpfs that other wires and plugs do.

Heck I tried E3 and the JBA once best power/fuel saving combo ever. I **** you not my explorer would haul some ass. I even got 17 mpg city with my 5.0:eek: But with them both it was maybe 7 months tops when the wires started melting and the plugs started fouling.

I've never tried those Laser NGKs though
 






Other then the melting issue, I have not read one post about the most important part of checking to see how the wire is doing, and that's the resistance reading you get per foot of wire the longer the wire see service. So just because a wire looks good on the outside don't mean that it's in good condition.
I've had MSD wires on my 302 with headers for 6 years with some boots hitting the header and no issues. I also have the larger diameter wires.
 






If you find that the resistance is very large, the internal conductor is broken. However, most ignition wires don't fail this way, so measuring in-spec resistance doesn't tell you that it's good. The typical problem is arcing to ground through a defect in the insulation. It will not show up on a simple resistance test either, because the multimeter uses low voltage. It's easy to diagnose with an oscilloscope, if you have access to one. Otherwise, the only useful test of a suspicious ignition wire is substituting a known good one. If the lengths are similar, you can swap the wires between cylinders and see if the misfire code moves to the other cylinder.

Other then the melting issue, I have not read one post about the most important part of checking to see how the wire is doing, and that's the resistance reading you get per foot of wire the longer the wire see service. So just because a wire looks good on the outside don't mean that it's in good condition.
I've had MSD wires on my 302 with headers for 6 years with some boots hitting the header and no issues. I also have the larger diameter wires.
 






1998 Exp

measuring in-spec resistance doesn't tell you that it's good.

That is wrong as wrong can be. I don't know how many spark plug wires I've replaced even when all plugs wires created a spark and no arcing to motor and then have the engine run smoother and back in the day have faster ET times.
I'm not saying it's the main thing but a proper resistance reading in a proper tune up procedure is very important. Especially if you see no arcing in wires but still not running right or a lot of static in radio. Now this static thing might not be applicable for all vehicles.
Guys don't have to believe me, just google checking "spark plug wire resistance" and see how many how to's there are including the reasons.
 



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