Blower motor

[N_tater]

I drive a 2000 explorer. The fan completely stopped working. No matter what number I'm on and nothing for heat or AC. I checked fuses and they were good. I'm pretty sure its the blower motor but the videos ive seen show them changing either a blower motor under the hood or one under the glove box. How do I know which one it is? When I lofor the motor online I can only find ones labeled "front". Is it the same motor for either spot? Anything helps. Thanks in advance everybody.

 

[N_tater]

I drive a 2000 explorer. The fan completely stopped working. No matter what number I'm on and nothing for heat or AC. I checked fuses and they were good. I'm pretty sure its the blower motor but the videos ive seen show them changing either a blower motor under the hood or one under the glove box. How do I know which one it is? When I lofor the motor online I can only find ones labeled "front". Is it the same motor for either spot? Anything helps. Thanks in advance everybody.

P.s. I feel heat still when I turn the dial to full red just no fan.

 

[poker4me007]

I'd check this resistor out first... they get rusty and stop working...I don't know if the web site is coming out right, but it's called a Blower motor control mudule resister...also here's a video showing you where it's at...




https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...+conditioning,blower+motor+control+module+/+r

 

[1998Exp]

Disconnect the plug from the blower and hook it directly to the battery. It will help you sort out the culprit
.

 

[poker4me007]

Disconnect the plug from the blower and hook it directly to the battery. It will help you sort out the culprit
.

Sounds good but make sure you know what wire goes to pos. and neg...

 

[1998Exp]

Sounds good but make sure you know what wire goes to pos. and neg...

Why do you think it matters? I don't think there anything electronic in the motor, and the winding is not connected to ground through the case.

 

[poker4me007]

Why do you think it matters? I don't think there anything electronic in the motor, and the winding is not connected to ground through the case.

Your right ...my bad, the most will happen is the motor well turn in reverse...sometimes I can over think things...

 

[J_C]

Do you have manual or automatic (EATC) climate control? On the manual, if the firewall resistor module goes out you should still have high fan speed. Did you check for a blower motor relay? If you have one you might try swapping in another of the same type relay from that under-hood power distribution box.

Before I started hooking the blower up direct to the battery, I would do something that's probably easier, to measure for voltage on the wire plug while the console control is set to highest fans speed.

If there's no voltage then the problem is before the blower. If there is voltage (approaching 12V or even higher if the engine is on), either the blower is bad or the connector is corroded.

 

[1998Exp]

Do you have manual or automatic (EATC) climate control? On the manual, if the firewall resistor module goes out you should still have high fan speed. Did you check for a blower motor relay? If you have one you might try swapping in another of the same type relay from that under-hood power distribution box.
Before I started hooking the blower up direct to the battery, I would do something that's probably easier, to measure for voltage on the wire plug while the console control is set to highest fans speed.
If there's no voltage then the problem is before the blower. If there is voltage (approaching 12V or even higher if the engine is on), either the blower is bad or the connector is corroded.

A few comments:
1) The O/P drives an XLT, which almost certainly has manual controls and uses a selectable resistor.
2) On my 1998 EATC version there is a relay in the controller, which bypasses the driver transistor when a high speed is commanded. When the transistor in the controller burned, I still had the high speed available. It resulted in funny operation: the A/C would not blow anything until the cab got really hot, then it blew full speed until my hands froze, and then the cycle repeated. I think, but am not sure that the 2000 EATC is the same (though it's probably besides the point for the XLT).
3) Both setups have a blower relay, connecting one side of the motor to the battery (through a fuse). The other side is grounded through the controller, or the resistor block. If one is already measuring the voltage, it would be good to measure both terminals. No power on either: bad blower relay, burned fuse, or melted connector somewhere. Battery voltage on both: bad controller or resistor (or perhaps a melted connector there). Battery voltage on one, and something between 0 and say, 8V on the other (depending on the setting): bad motor.

 

[66gt350ps]

I vote for the resister switch as I did my '93 a number of times. The spring style resistors frequently shorted out (broke) from debris collecting on them. Replacement is fairly easy with sockets and nimble fingers.