How to: Body Work 101

[MONMIX]

Here the Ex is totally de-trimmed. All the glass is out, wheel flare off, tail light off, rocker trim off.
( body side mouldings were removed ages ago ) With a flat sanding block sand the primer smooth with 400
grit. Make sure you smooth the edges so that you can not feel a thing.
Wipe down the whole quarter panel with thinner to remove the wax and crud.
Scuff the whole panel with a 3M red scotchbrite pad.
Blow it clean with compressed air, and wipe it down with anti static degreaser.
Dirt is even more your enemy now.
This panel can not be clean enough from here on out.
Once you scuff and clean the panel, DO NOT touch it.

 

[MONMIX]

Tape it up, bag it and roll it into the paint booth. ( you all have a paint booth right )
Do not use news paper for masking. It is fibrous and the over spray will not always stick to it and
the air from the paint gun will blow the dried paint back onto your wet paint. Meaning, dirt in your paint.
I did not paint the truck. The adage is body men can't paint, and painters can not do body work.
I believe this.
I also was not there for the paint process so I have no photos.

 

[MONMIX]

Here is the fresh painted Ex, unwrapped, untaped, ready to be put back together.

 

[MONMIX]

Give it a bath, to wash off the finger prints.

I hope you could follow and make sense of all this.

Different dents in different locations will present numerous challenges and scenarios.
PM me if you have any questions or need any help.

 

[ions]

Damn glen burnie little *******s! i was near the best buy right off richie hwy and some kid through a soda can at my truck and i slammed on my breaks and chased his ass all the way to his house his parents beat the crap outta him and told me if there was any damage to my truck they would pay for it but i was lucky as it left just alittle dint that could be fixed in a day with simple tools and the paint wasn't scratched at all. Sorry to hear about the dent and im glad it didnt get the glass.

 

[Blee1099]

Nice write up Kevin.. So when do you want to do pull all the dents/character marks in my truck..

 

[bmxking5]

Nice write-up.

 

[DeRocha]

Very nicely done....

 

[X~FACTOR]

Question: were you sucking in your stomach when you took that first picture?





j/k with you man. Nice write up! If it was my truck I would've left it alone.

 

[*96*X]

Thats a good job. I plan to be taking on my own body projects 2. thanks 4 the info

 

['96explorereddiebauer]

Gosh, this reminds me of my high school days. I did the exact same stuff you described when I was working on cars. I also painted the cars too. I love doing that stuff!!

 

[MONMIX]

Thanks, but I would have MUCH rather the glass had been hit.

Thanks, you tell me when man. You know I will hook you up.

Thanks

Thanks

Thanks ummmmmmmm I don't remember.

Thanks

Thanks

 

[Glacier991]

Fantastic series MonMix! This HAS to go to Most Useful Threads. I can't do bodywork for beans, so this was a terrific primer for me (again).... but I can paint, not expert by any means but reasonably well...... so I am planning a "My Explorer Paint Diary" soon since my 92 needs paint, and of course Black (hardest color of all)...just have to reserve the paint booth and find someone to take some pics while I am painting (and find the time to do it all) - I have the paint and clear... I will be using base/clear so will be using supplied air to breathe.... but this thread was great. KUDO'S to YOU !! Thanks for taking the time to share your experience. I'm nominating your effort!

 

[MONMIX]

Yikes wow thanks !!!!!

I am hoping to get this as a sitckey in the Body Work dept or put into Useful threads.

yeah black sucks for body work. It is cake to shoot ( according to our painter at least ) We will have to piggy back your paint thread to this body work thread.

 

[bates]

Great job! I too am planning on painting my explorer this winter, except i have some nice big patches to weld in. Right on both rear fender lips. How hard was it to get the rear glass out? Was it harded to put back in?

I am planning on using a Nason base clear version of the 2003 Torreador Red, which is a tricoat, so hopefully I can get something close. I've heard Black is the easiest to shoot too, and I've also heard that it's the cheapest to buy. Red unfortunately is the most expensive. I know the chromabase tri-coats ain't cheap from last winter's experience.

I'm helping on one of my dad's cars, just a quick fix to sell the little runt 914. The paint is so thick we need to bring the fill to it just to get it half ways stright. No word of a lie its 3/32 to 1/18 thick.

I've heard that adage too Monmix, but my buddy who's a painted says that a body man is just somebody who couldn't paint. This better make the most useful threads! AWESOME writeup!

 

[Glacier991]

I'm thinking this... a good body man is patient.... he has to be.... a painter, especially these days with catalyzed paints... can't afford the luxury of time... he has to keep a wet edge and keep moving... patience is not a virtue here for him. Opposites. When I am painting I like everything set to go before I start and it never stops until I am done (ok maybe long enough to clean the gun between base and clear while it tacks off, but I am still busy cleaning and mixing)

 

[Blee1099]

I second the motion for this thread being listed on the useful thread forum or atleast stickied to the top..

 

[*96*X]

I second the motion for this thread being listed on the useful thread forum or atleast stickied to the top..

I 3rd

 

[frickea86]

I 4th that, great write up monmix, awesome job....

 

[MONMIX]

Bates,
I am gonna assume you mean the fixed glass and not the wing glass.
No, it is not very hard to get out.
Unlike MOST vehicles the glass on Ford Explorers is NOT urathaned in.

Remove a hand full of 9mm nuts and cut the seal.
I have a pnumatic window knife, but a utility knife will work too but not as easy and lacks in the oooh and ahhhh factor.

Any way cut it as much as you can and push outward bit by bit, evenly.
Have a buddy out there to catch the glass. Remember there is a plastic frame attached to the glass so if it gets too tough to cut you need to check your angle.

A little thumb action will clean up the old " window kit "
Don't even think about reusing the old window kit.
1/4 inch is the size you want for the reinstal.
There is a channel on the frame of the glass to show you where to run the window kit.
Make the seam at the bottom for reasons that should be obvious.
Have a buddy hold the glass in place, slip on the 9mm nuts and tighten bit by bit evenly staggering the tightneing points. Meaning one on the top, one on the left, one on the bottom, one on the right, you get the picture.
Just pull it all in evenly.

it is not a bad job at all