Brake Pads

[pabille]

Yesterday, on my '96 Sport, the dash "BRAKE" light came on so I searched the forum and found possible reasons. Sure enough, my fluid was low. The reason... I need new pads. I wanna replace all for corners but keep the stock rotors. I see Hawk HPS pads getting good reviews in the Review section. Any comments about others like EBC, Satisfied or other Hawk products? Thanks.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

I haven't had any expierence with Hawk; but you may need to look into new rotors. If you can get the stock ones machined (i dunno if the rear will have enough to still be in spec); then that would be great and you can keep them. But the reason I'm saying this is if you just slap pads on it, you will run the risk of getting noise and possibly a brake vibration later down the road.

-Drew

 

[Explorer#2]

i dont trust Satisfied, i was at Barbers Motorsports park one day and saw a pad break apart in the middle of a lap, the pad came off of the backing. but me and all of my friends use Hawk and none of us has ever had a problem

 

[SkanlaxJMO]

uhh when my brake light is on it is because the e-brake is depressed.

 

[hunterdan]

I just recently replaced my front pads with EBC pads and installed new rotors. Big improvement immediately over what I had on there, cermamic pads from advance auto. The bed in material works great. They aren't as quick to stop as they were with the bed in material on, but they are much more conisistent feeling. I plan on changing the rear rotors and installing the EBC pads back there as well. I picked my front EBCs up at Pepboys for about $40 a set and were in stock. The brakes are much better now with my 31's than when I was stock with 235s.

Dan

 

[IAmTodd]

uhh when my brake light is on it is because the e-brake is depressed.

It also comes on when the fluid level is low. Kind of like a CEL, has more than one meaning.

 

[pabille]

I haven't had any expierence with Hawk; but you may need to look into new rotors. If you can get the stock ones machined (i dunno if the rear will have enough to still be in spec); then that would be great and you can keep them. But the reason I'm saying this is if you just slap pads on it, you will run the risk of getting noise and possibly a brake vibration later down the road.

-Drew

Thanks, ExplorerDMB. I like that. Turning the rotors was in the plan if needed. Hopefuly, there should be enough material to keep the rotors. I was thinking of Powerslots but thats more $$$ on the plastic.

 

[pabille]

It also comes on when the fluid level is low. Kind of like a CEL, has more than one meaning.

It's kinda cool. The pad wears down so the self adjust feature compensates. This draws down the fuid in the reservoir,triggering this "BRAKE CEL". Very cool.

 

[pabille]

So ExplorerDMB and hunterdan, I wil probably have to replace the rear rotors? Not enough material, huh?

 

[aldive]

You may not need to replace the rotors; check them first.

Good luck ....

 

[pabille]

Thanks, guys. I'll check out the four rotors and go with the Hawk HPS. EBC sounds good also. Maybe, if I can slide it past the wife, I'll throw in those Powerslots. Heh heh. Aldive,... synthetic brake fluid? I've been reading and heeding your posts on synthetics.

 

[aldive]

Aldive,... synthetic brake fluid? I've been reading and heeding your posts on synthetics.

By all means.

Good luck .........

 

[turtle313]

repair manual wrong?

I recently replaced the pads on all four wheels. When I was done, I was driving home and developed a wicked head shake on the freeway. When I took it in to have it checked out, they told me that using a c-clamp to push the fluid back in to the master cylinder like the manual says to do was bad for the ABS. Something about pushing fluid the wrong way through a one way valve. I know that didn't cause the head shake but has anybody else heard of that. It seems to make sense. Once I assured them that it was not the brakes causing the shake, they finally told me that fords are notorious for sucking air into the power steering lines when you let the suspension sag. This is what cause the shake. I'm sure of it bacause now that I've driven it more, it's gone away. Driving has worked out the air in the lines. Now it feels just like before. Anybody else have this problem? Is it normal or is there something wrong with mine?

Yes, it does need an alignment and wheel bearings but that was only a small part of it because the wobble is gone now and I haven't done the alignment yet.

 

[ExplorerDMB]

Yes - NEVER push fluid back to the master cylinder - even if it doesn't have ABS. Set your c clamp up and then open the bleeder and push the piston (s) back evenly. Just don't let your master cylinder run dry.

-Drew

 

[jack1.1]

replace the pads and rotors and fluid

Hello:

I just replaced on my 98 explorer the pads & rotors with powerslots and hawk pads.

Chances are your rotors are warped or heat damaged. The stock rotors are prone to heat damage is what several people at different shops have told me. Mine were very heat damaged (and warped).

You should replace your pads if you replace the rotors. Also you could probably use a fluid flush as the fluid gets water in it and then rusts your brake components.

My wifes car has hawk pads on stock rotors (Elantra GT)
My other car has EBC pads and rotors (Contour SVT)

In my opinion the explorer saw the biggest improvemnet with the hawk and powerslot combo. The EBC combo on my SVT is ok, I just could not tell any difference.

So if it was me I'd go with the powerslot/hawk combo.

 

[pabille]

Hello:

So if it was me I'd go with the powerslot/hawk combo.

The combo is on order now...complete with synthetic fluid.

 

[jack1.1]

cost

hawk pads and powerslot rotors set me back $390 including shipping, last month.
Much less cost than a local brake shop for generic parts.

with 2 kids I don't mess around when it comes to brakes.

Jack