Brakes From Hell!!!

[basheer_alis]

Happy Thanksgiving everyone. I was dropping off my father in law and my brakes went out...again. Here's the history. The first time I had to fix my brakes was at about 20k after purchase. The next time I had pros do it and they lasted about 16k. I did it again myself and they lasted about 16k again. I just replaced them about 2 months ago, so they probably lasted about 4k this time around. And here I am again. Last time I replaced them (and almost each time I replaced them) i have replaced pads, rotors, and calipers on both sides. two times ago, I replaced the lines, so they are still fairly new. I know the calipers are sticking, but I don't know why. Can anyone help me out with this situation? If so, I may send some turkey or stuffing your way (it may be old and rotten by the time it gets there, but it's the thought that counts!). Thanks for all your help!!!!!!!

 

[Jason_25]

Did you lubricate the slide pins with synthetic caliper grease each time? Were the new calipers already lubed?

 

[TheRookie]

First gens have these crappy sliders to mount the calipers as i am sure you know. REPLACE THEM every time you do brakes on your truck. No reason to reuse the weakest link every time

 

[basheer_alis]

The calipers were ready to be used out of the box. The pins were lubed down more than you can imagine. Could the master cylinder have anything to do with this? Also, what happens from the master cylinder to the hose lines in the wheel well? THanks for all your help.

 

[basheer_alis]

The pins were not first gen, I replaced those last time as well. Another questions: What about the rear brakes. If they weren't functioning correctly, could that be my problem (because of a weight shift to the front of the vehicle when stopping)? Thanks!

 

[JOHN V.]

Unfortunately the first generation Explorers are very hard on brakes. You have to remember that Ford turned the original Ranger into an SUV. The brakes are too small for the vehicle. They fixed the problem when they introduced the 1995 Explorers.

The best solution we have found is to upgrade the pads & rotors. We use the Slotted Rotors from Power Slot and the Carbon Mwtallic Pads from Performance Friction. The sloted rotors cool better to help prevent warping and the Carbon Metallic Pads last a lot longer.

We currently have a special price for the Power Slot Rotors at Explorer Express , here is a link to the thread on this web site:

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=93468&highlight=explorer+express

 

[IgotTwo]

My 94 brakes are also a PITA so I’m **** with them

I clean the all the crap off the calipers and everything in sight with a small brass brush while my shop vac is going - especially the rail guide slots Then brake clean everything, staying away from rubber parts.
Everything clean is good start …I think?

A “second” to the above: Buy new rails and grease em well.
? 7.50 ? a pair at NAPA

I put 2-3 "speed nuts" on the front hubs before mounting the tire. Holds everything in place before the wheel goes on (I may be crazy ...but change a tire without em and the outside hub assembly may come with it)

I was told that since the wheel lugs hold the rotor tight....torque em. Passed my resonableness test
Mis torqued wheel nuts can cause premature rotor wear. As in “I’m not rotating evenly”...so it is too easy not to torque the wheel lugs. I read 5 lbs off can do it

Are your front wheel bearings torqued properly? or loose ? or OK? How does the hub locking ring look?
Everything spinning OK on the hub?

Do you check out for any ABS problems? Sometimes the check light is worthless.

Maybe its time to bleed the brake system… change it over and get all that crap out of there

Going the cermaic pad sor fancy rotor route might not solve the problem ...it might but....

Just a few thoughts

 

[basheer_alis]

Thanks for all the advice. Come to find out my brake problem is a combination of issues. First, the inside pad on the passenger side fell out place. The it was about 1 inch above the notches, lodged in between the caliper and rotor. Secondly, the passenger side rear shoes have grease all over them from a broken oil seal. Took it to Midas and they quoted me $1000 for brakes all the way around, and replacing the oil seals on both sides. I can't afford that damn much for a repair on my X! So I decided to do it myself. Whipped out my Hanes manual and got to work. Now, I have another problem.

The differential pinion shaft lock bolt is stuck. I can't get it out so I am going into surgery in about 10 minutes. Where can I get a replacement bolt? Thanks.

 

[IgotTwo]

Are we still on the brakes?
What are you taking part?

 

[basheer_alis]

Brakes not so much, now we I'm asking about the rear axle. Does anyone know where I can get a differential pinion shaft lock bolt? page 8-10 in haynes

 

[410Fortune]

To clarify a few things:

The slide pins do not need to be replace every time the brakes are serviced. You only need to replace the pins if they are cracked down the middle, the rubber has gotten old/hard or if they just look worn. ew pins can be expensive.

The knuckle should be cleaned where the slide pins mount and also where the rear brake pad tabs slide. The anti rattle clip must be installed on the bottom of the rear pad.

The caliper should also get a good cleaning where the slide pins mount and around the dust boot/plunger

It is good practivce to use a little fresh grease on the knuckle and caliper prior to installing the slide pins. The slide pins should also get cleaned and a fresh coat of grease (Light). You can also use a bad of grease on the knuckle in the upper and lower tabs mounts for the rear pad.

Calipers are cheap ($12 at autozone) and should be replaced if they have torn boots.

The type of pads you use will make a lbig bdifference with the performance you get from the front disks.
Carbon metallic pads work wonders.

Also if the rotors are newer (still thick) ceramic pads work great! ceramic pads run at hotter temps (they dont disipate heat as well) so the thicker the rotor the better they work (thicker rotor = better cooling/less heat transfer)

If you keep up on the lubrication, cleaning, and condition of pads the brakes can last a long long time and not give you any noise/vibration/or wear problems....