broken shock mount

[jake the snake]

ugh!!

i decided i was going to try to see how easily i could loosen the nuts on the front shocks, to see if i could tackle changing them out myself with hand tools. on the front driver's side, i put a ratchet on the bottom shock mount, barely torqued on it, and sheared the stud off that is attached to the radius arm.

**i drilled a hole next to the stud, and have a bolt holding the shock on for now. (its the original motorcraft shock...11 yrs/125k mi. old)--how long will it hold?

can i replace the stud? should i? how do i do it? what else could i do?

 

[Bored_2wd]

The bolt will probably work just fine for a long time, but you probably should replace the bolt with something designed exactly for this situation. Go to trak auto, pep boys, murrays, or some other auto store and ask for a shock mount. Normally it comes in a small package over near where they sell replacement window cranks, etc. It's exactly what you need. It's very similar to the bolt like you used as a temp fix, since you already have the hole drilled the rest is easy. The shock mount looks kind of like 2 bolts welded head to head. The short side goes in the radius arm hole you drilled, the long end goes through the shock hole. I'd recommend a little locktight on the nuts, and you're good to go.
--Bob

 

[jake the snake]

thanks man. i appreciate your advice. i will do it tomorrow.

 

[Jason94sport]

94 XLT 4X4
Bringing this post up again. Same damn thing just happen to me. I was trying to install my front 2" springs. Got as far as the lower shock mount. It sheared right off with one spin of the air ratchet.

How can I fix it so it's like it was? I am not comfortable drilling another hole like this thread suggests. Do I need to replace the whole drivers side radias arm? I know the passanger side will also break. The lower bolt looks exactly like the drivers did. Is drilling another hole the only way? If it is will doing so change any of the suspension angles & stuff? It's going to be lifted 2 inches.
The truck is parked right now & is not drivable.

 

[DB_1]

It's been awhile since i've had stock TTB radius arms but if my memory serves me right that shock bolt is splined and you should be able to pound it out and simply replace it with one from the dealer or junkyard. Can you post a pic of what's goin on there?

 

[Nick_Good]

I had the same prob with my '93. i went to advanced auto and they did not carry a new lower shock mount. You could just grind down the bolt and weld on another. I just said forget it and ordered a 4" superlift with new radius arms. I know you probally dont want to go this route but just an idea. If you want to go this route rocky mountain suspension still has the lift on sale.
Nick Good

 

[jake the snake]

The angles of the shocks on my front end are now off by a few degrees. When the wheels are cranked all the way to one side the shock boot rubs a little. If it is not too much of a project, go for new radius arms, I'll bet you could get them pretty cheap at a junkyard.

 

[Jason94sport]

That is way too much trouble.
I looked into stud extenders & that won't work. My only option is to cut the stud & drill it out. Then use a grade 8 bolt with a washer & lock nut. Did some searching & James Duff has a dual shock kit that does this. I hope this will be ok, & I hope the passnager side will not need this same setup. I haven't tried to get that shock off yet.

 

[ld50]

darned shock mounts!

 

[DB_1]

Here's another idea for ya...if you know someone with a welder or know of a shop that can do some welding, order 4 shock tabs and have them welded on. This set up will be much stronger than stock since its in double shear style as opposed to the single shear style you have now with the stock set up...just a thought

 

[Jason94sport]

I'm all set. Fixed it. The passanger side also snapped right off. I used 1/2" X 3" long 13 thread grade 8 bolts, with a big washer & a 1/2" lock nut on the drivers side. The passanger side I couldn't get the 3" long bolt in cause the axle arm was in the way so I used the same setup with a 2 1/2" long bolt instead. I should have enough of the thread into the locknut to not have a problem. Of course I had to have a friend who's good with this stuff cut off the stud & drill it out. 10 minutes & he was done. I was in shock! Since everthing is still in the stock location I shouldn't have any shock alignment problems.
Maybe a mod could move this to usefull topics cause this is a good way to fix broken lower shock mounts on a first gen.

 

[Ranger Al]

drill a hole and use a strong bolts will last you years to come...

 

[Flash]

darned shock mounts!

 

[Doug246]

Same thing happened to me on the one side. I managed to get the drivers side off okay with a lot of heat. Since I can't find the proper mount I'll use a bolt and nut like Jason94sport.
Thanks for all the tips on how to do it!
doug

 

[squeege]

ahhh...same thing here, while trying to replace my shocks, sheared the bolt off.. I was at my storage room being that I cant work on my truck in my driveway, it was raining, it was a monday... My fix being that I had limited tools.. I drilled a hole in the center of the remainder of the bolt, and tapped it, used a 1/4" screw with a BIG washer.. that was 5,000 miles ago... but the pic of the bungi straps is just to much.... lol

 

[ActionJackson]

useing the bolts like yall did works fine, in my many years of turning wrenches I have come across this quite a few times with fords and older jeeps (CJ's) I have always just welded a grade 8 bolt through the radius arm. cheap and easy.