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BTF lift question

JawzSS

Well-Known Member
Joined
March 12, 2009
Messages
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City, State
Delaware
Year, Model & Trim Level
04 Mountaineer
Thinking about doing the BTF life on my 04 mountaineer..however, i wanted to make sure that having the truck lifted this way wouldnt put any excessive/damaging stress on other of the suspension components.

I drive the truck about an hour to work everyday down an interstate and just wanted to cover all my bases before finding out the hard way that something gave way while traveling 80mph!

had some issues with a lifted grand Cherokee in the past..which is where my concern originates!

thanks
 



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Only excess stress will be seen in the balljoints. upgrade them when you do the lift and you should be good to go for a little while.
 






Any modification or alteration will adversely affect most suspension joints including ball joints...
If you arent prepared to possibly do repairs don't do it...
I'm not saying don't do it I am very soon but be sure to keep an eye on things if you do
The 2.25/1.75(3.375/2.65 actual lift) seem highest safe height just those won't be too bad but if compiled with other lifts it can be too much
 






Only excess stress will be seen in the balljoints. upgrade them when you do the lift and you should be good to go for a little while.

where do purchase upgraded ball joints from...

Any modification or alteration will adversely affect most suspension joints including ball joints...
If you arent prepared to possibly do repairs don't do it...
I'm not saying don't do it I am very soon but be sure to keep an eye on things if you do
The 2.25/1.75(3.375/2.65 actual lift) seem highest safe height just those won't be too bad but if compiled with other lifts it can be too much

oh i know all too well about the "pay to play"..had a trailblazer ss that I could not stop modding until it got to the point where I couldnt even use it as my daily driver.. then blew the motor AND had already replaced the trans..

just cant help it.. if im still driving when im 90 years old I most likely will still be trying to mod my buick (or whatever it is that old people drive) lol

also I do not plan on doing any further lift combinations...just the spacer
 






also getting new tires this weekend.. going with 265/75-16..will these still look ok with that lift? Just wanna make sure it doesnt look like im rolling around on dinner plates
 






265s will look fine with the 2.25 front 1.75 rear lift, must of the lifted third gens run that size

And for balljoints id recommend "moog k80008"
 






I bought a pair of moog k8008 ball joints for the front but then decided to return them and go all the way and buy a pair of BTF uniball upper a arms. If you are concerned about keeping stress levels on your suspension components in check you can run limit straps to keep from damaging components at full droop/suspension downtravel.
 






I bought a pair of moog k8008 ball joints for the front but then decided to return them and go all the way and buy a pair of BTF uniball upper a arms. If you are concerned about keeping stress levels on your suspension components in check you can run limit straps to keep from damaging components at full droop/suspension downtravel.

I'm not sure I understand much about ball joints and what exact Purpose they serve. So what would b the diff between getting the moog k8008 opposed to the btf upper arms. What r they price differences between the 2?

Also def not familiar withe these limit straps u speak Of?
 






I'm not sure I understand much about ball joints and what exact Purpose they serve. So what would b the diff between getting the moog k8008 opposed to the btf upper arms. What r they price differences between the 2?

Also def not familiar withe these limit straps u speak Of?

If you look at your front suspension you'll notice a large silvery colored metal piece coming up vertically between your front wheel and front spring. That's called a spindle. Attached to that is a triangle shaped metal arm, called an upper control arm. The rubber coated hinge that connects the upper control arm to the spindle is called a ball joint.

the OEM ball joints are designed to spend most of their time at limited angles. When you put on a BTF lift, those ball joints now spend all their time at an increased angle, which causes them to wear faster. If you offroad it really hard with the BTF lift, you have a greater chance of separating the ball joint from the spindle or control arm.

The Moog brand ball joints that were mentioned can be had at any major auto parts store. They seem to be tougher than OEM. Besides, at this point you might as well replace your OEM ball joints anyway. The pair of them will run about 50-60 bucks total if I remember correctly. There's a thread in the stock 2002-2005 explorer forum at the top that talks about how to swap them out.

The BTF Uniball upper control arms are a complete aftermarket replacement for your OEM upper control arms. They use a very strong joint between the upper control arm and the spindle, it's called a uniball and has a greater range of motion than a ball joint and is a lot stronger. When it does eventually wear out it costs about a little bit more than a ball joint but it should be easier to switch it out.

The BTF uniball upper control arms are also slightly longer than the stock control arms to help correct some of the bad suspension geometry that you get at full suspension droop with the BTF spacers. They run about $570 a pair.

Limit straps are pretty simple. They attach between the frame and suspension and prevent the suspension from overextending and causing problems when you are running a BTF lift. They don't seem to be very expensive, the only thing is you have to get some mounting tabs welded to your frame and suspension.

Bottom line is this: How do you plan on using your truck? if the lift is just for looks and gets driven on the street/snow/beach, you'll be fine with just the moog ball joints. If you take it on trails where the suspension gets flexed out and the truck is bouncing over logs and rocks then you're going to want the BTF upper control arms. You might also be fine if you just used moog ball joints and limit straps.
 






If you look at your front suspension you'll notice a large silvery colored metal piece coming up vertically between your front wheel and front spring. That's called a spindle. Attached to that is a triangle shaped metal arm, called an upper control arm. The rubber coated hinge that connects the upper control arm to the spindle is called a ball joint.

the OEM ball joints are designed to spend most of their time at limited angles. When you put on a BTF lift, those ball joints now spend all their time at an increased angle, which causes them to wear faster. If you offroad it really hard with the BTF lift, you have a greater chance of separating the ball joint from the spindle or control arm.

The Moog brand ball joints that were mentioned can be had at any major auto parts store. They seem to be tougher than OEM. Besides, at this point you might as well replace your OEM ball joints anyway. The pair of them will run about 50-60 bucks total if I remember correctly. There's a thread in the stock 2002-2005 explorer forum at the top that talks about how to swap them out.

The BTF Uniball upper control arms are a complete aftermarket replacement for your OEM upper control arms. They use a very strong joint between the upper control arm and the spindle, it's called a uniball and has a greater range of motion than a ball joint and is a lot stronger. When it does eventually wear out it costs about a little bit more than a ball joint but it should be easier to switch it out.

The BTF uniball upper control arms are also slightly longer than the stock control arms to help correct some of the bad suspension geometry that you get at full suspension droop with the BTF spacers. They run about $570 a pair.

Limit straps are pretty simple. They attach between the frame and suspension and prevent the suspension from overextending and causing problems when you are running a BTF lift. They don't seem to be very expensive, the only thing is you have to get some mounting tabs welded to your frame and suspension.

Bottom line is this: How do you plan on using your truck? if the lift is just for looks and gets driven on the street/snow/beach, you'll be fine with just the moog ball joints. If you take it on trails where the suspension gets flexed out and the truck is bouncing over logs and rocks then you're going to want the BTF upper control arms. You might also be fine if you just used moog ball joints and limit straps.

yea i dont plan on doing any serious off roading.. just for looks basically..
 






also wanted to do 1" wheel spacers.. any worries with that?
 



















I don't run wheel spacers but I see that plenty on here do....usually the advice I see is make sure they are hubcentric and have their own studs and not to use those universal spacer things you find in the local auto parts store or wherever. If you are running 265/75 I don't think you'll really need them.
 






I don't run wheel spacers but I see that plenty on here do....usually the advice I see is make sure they are hubcentric and have their own studs and not to use those universal spacer things you find in the local auto parts store or wherever. If you are running 265/75 I don't think you'll really need them.


Yea that's what I've gathered as well.. Just didn't know if there was a particular brand most used??

Also I've had 265/75s before on the truck I just was thinking it would look much better with a slightly wider stance.. Don't get me wrong I loved the way the tires looked I just think it could use a little wider stance..
 






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