Building a Dana 44...want opinions

[Dannyboy]

Well, its been an exciting week for the Explorer with the Dana 44 getting hacked apart.

I'm chopping down a Dana 44 and of course talking to shops everyone will offer a different opinion. This is ranging from gears to lockers to brand of shafts so I thought I'd share what I've heard and see what ya'll think. In the end I am certain that I will be so much stronger than my current setup, however I'd rather do it right this time rather than spend the cash down the road on repairs.

First my current setup, 4.56 Dana 35, Ford 8.8. I've run this setup with EZ lockers in both ends and can totally bear the "load" of steering problems, I did however have issues with my front locker shearing pins, but never once yet in the rear.

I got a SWEEEEET deal of a set of 37x12.50x15 Swamper SSRs yesterday (brand new) so this will be my new tire on the setup.

Now lets hear opinions.

Do I stay 4.56s or go 5.13s and spend the extra $500. I suppose someone on here would give me a little bit of money for the old gears so it wouldn't be too expensive. The front already needs the gears, so why not the rear eh?

What locker?
I wanted to go Detroit, install it and leave it, I thought it would be just like the lock rite without any of the trouble, but one shop told me steering would be harsh.

ARB- The way that that shop suggested that I go, of course more money, but is it worth the extra $300 that I really am starting not to have with this project.

OX locker- but I hear they were out of business for a while, are they dependable and worth it over the Detroit?

What shafts are best? I looked at Superior and Warn. I will be running F150 short side shaft and an EB long side after I get the axle chopped down this evening.

Superior vs Warn. I will run the Spicer u-joints, Sorry I'm not going to spend over $100 on just a u-joint for those fancy.

What kind of steering is everyone setting up on their solid axles, there isn't a lot of current pics. I'd like to see what Jefe, and others with 44s chopped specifically have done.

Lastly I guess I'll need an opinion about what beer to drink while doing this project. I mean this is emptying every pocket that I'll have to resort from my normal decent brands to either something like a Milwaukees Best or a Natural Light. OUCH. On a good note, I'll honestly say that this swap is balancing out costs, because I can think of 3-4 nights I have worked on it by myself instead of going to the clubs and spending money on booze and strippers!!!!!!! That's no coincedence, it's me telling myself that the Dana 44 is no big hit on the pocket book.

 

[ALLOUTWAR13]

As far as lockers go i have one of the Ox lockers in a Jeep wrangler with a Dana 44. the ox is worth buying because its so dependable. the only way that it wont engage is if the cable snaps. If you can snap the cable your really beating it. I havent had any problems at all with the locker or the company and id say its the best locker i have ever used

 

[410Fortune]

Keystone light 30 packs, 12.99

hahaha Get the axle under there, then worry about steering.

ARB is good but I say detroit.

37's plus 4.56 will be just about right for the 4.0L. You could use 5.13, is it a stick or auto?

 

[Dannyboy]

Auto tranny.

I think 4.56s are pretty good with the 35s so I am favoring the 5.13 gear swap (just trying to do it right the first time), Detroit locker in front, rockcrawler rims (15x8), 7/8" wheel spacers adapting 5x4.5 to a 5x5.5, and using DOM tubing w/ heim joints to link my steering together.

 

[410Fortune]

I have heard bad things about heims and steering....when they fail they fail.

tie rod ends are better for steering links........
dont forget with the D44 up front 4.88 is an option too

 

[RFR2212]

Originally posted by 410Fortune
Keystone light 30 packs, 12.99

Good choice, cept here it's only 10.99

Danny, i haven't heard much about the superior shafts for d44s... I do know that alot of people choose to run warns... All i've read is good things on them, or for that matter, they're one of the better ones out there. I'd detroit it, it's tough simple as that. Ox seems fishy, i'm always reading that people can get in touch w/ em, or they cant... blah blah, that's a big investment for something that might not work out in the end. 4.56s should do alright I think.

I see absolutely no problem running a heim jointed steering setup.

Any reason to not run beadlocks either? (besides cost)

 

[RockRanger]

Superior shafts. Do a search on pirates from my reading they seam to be the best.

U joints longfield has a new joint out kind of un proven but might be a bit better then stock.

Locker. I never had a problem with my front lockright maybe a aussie locker cause they are cheap.

Im not a big fan of heim steering but I believe www.rockstomper makes a set up that uses chevy tierod ends that is pretty beefy.

Cant give you advise on beer cause i dont drink.

One more thing randy ring and pinion is supose to have some new alloy shafts and soe new u joints coming out that are supose to be beefy. Seatch pirates for yukon shafts and you should find some info. Cheaper then others but they are made in india instead of USA like the other shafts.

Matt

 

[james t]

I will be running F150 short side shaft and an EB long side after I get the axle chopped down this evening.

please explain. the EB runs a 260 joint, the fullsize runs a 297. you cant use them together.

for a locker, i would also vote for the full Detroit. cant beat it. if you have steering issues later on, just go redneck hydro assist. cheap and easy.

 

[Dannyboy]

Pete I've got some cash set aside for this but I was quoted like $200 each for beadlocks.
Oh yeah the swampers were a spur of the moment purchase. They were brand new and I got them for $125 a tire (literally brand new w/ labels still on them) but that is more $$ into this swap.

I could run the stock shafts from a Bronco and F150, but why bother with any problems that I know I could avoid.

Should I still wrist my radius arm with my plan to heim the ends or is that not going to be necessary?


I'd like some guys to step in with some pics of their steering!!!!


AHHHHHH decisions! It's kinda like I see this as an opportunity to swap gears a half price but not really.

 

[Dannyboy]

Originally posted by james t
please explain. the EB runs a 260 joint, the fullsize runs a 297. you cant use them together.

They'll both have that 760X spicer ujoint when it's done.

What I am doing is running stock length shafts for a full width F150 on the drivers side, (inner and outer) while the passenger side is being cut down to run an early bronco shaft length (inner and outer). Both outers are the same on this setup. I thought this was a lot more common on this but not too many people have done this. My buddy has this setup on his Cherokee and it works awsome with heimed steering and heimed radius arms. His is not wristed.

 

[Robb]

If you are putting all that effort and money into the axle, I would start with a hi-steer, or cross-steer setup from the get go. There are a million ways you can go about that, from high $$$$ custom made knuckles to juckyard Chevy, Jeep, or F250 flat top knuckles. Here is a great article by Mr.N on various ways to go about hi-steer or cross-steer.

 

[Jefe]

Gears: I'll also remind you of the 4.88 option. Thats what I'm running. But with 37's you may want 5.13's

Locker: if you're thinking ARB or OX, put the Elec-trac on the list also. I love mine

Shafts: Tri-County uses Warn, so I didn't have a say. I'm also running standard u-joints . . . until I prove that I can break 'em.

Steering: I built my links. 3/4" heims, 1.25" Chromoly tubing. I have safety washers on all my ends, and I've got spares in the truck.

Here's the best pic I have right now:

Beer: I dont drink so you don't want my opinion

 

[Dannyboy]

Jefe that is beautiful

 

[Michael]

I throw a few opinions in that kinda mirror Jefe's.

Gears: I run 4.56's with 36's right now for the same reason you might, they were already in the 8.8 and the 44 needed gears. I wish I had gone 5.13, even with the auto.

Locker: Detroit or nothing as far as I'm concerned. Yes it can make steering difficult, but you already are dealing with that with the EZ Locker. I've never been a fan of ARB's, too many systems to go wrong, and Mudd***** here in TX just took out his OX after it failed to work on three different occasions with a complete reset by pros after each time, his Detroit worked perfectly the first time.

Shafts: I have warns with ctms in them. If I were doing it again now, I would be using the Superiors just because of a better warantee if something should go wrong. I don't forsee any problems with the warns, they ahve already held up to lots of hopping and throttle with the wheel cranked all the way over and the tire wedged into a rock.

Hubs: No one else touched on this yet, get some with a lifetime warantee, I started with Superwinches and have replaced with warns, broke the Superwinch in the above situation.

Steering: Like Jefe I too have heims. I haven't had a problem yet, and my hydraulic ram puts a good bit of stress on the steering. Mine is also set up wiht highsteer on Jeep Wagoneer knuckles.

 

[Dannyboy]

This thread is turning out fantastic. I will take several pics of chopping the axle tonight. I have detailed instructions from my buddy that has had his in his XJ for about 2 years now without a problem..

 

[james t]

also my opinion on gears- im running 4:56's with 35's, wish i would have at least gone 4:88. if you have possible future plans for further gear reduction (atlas, etc.) i wouldnt worry about it and just stick with the 4:56's. i should have Tera-low's buy this summer so its really no big deal... but it would be nice to be just a little lower.

axles- seems the Warns and the Superiors are about the same strength....so its a toss up there.

Ujoints- CTM's no doubt. dear God they are expensive, but NO ONE breaks them.

steering- no doubt go high or crossover. heims or regular truck tie rod ends it really doesnt matter.

if you're gonna have serious flex, run a heim on the lower end of the track bar. this will keep a bushing at the frame mount to keep vibration in check, and the heim will keep the track bar from binding when you are seriously crossed up.

 

[Dannyboy]

Originally posted by james t


if you're gonna have serious flex, run a heim on the lower end of the track bar. this will keep a bushing at the frame mount to keep vibration in check, and the heim will keep the track bar from binding when you are seriously crossed up.

Thats a good call, and I'll probably have some serious flex now that I am in the ballpark for coilovers!

 

[james t]

.....then you will want a heim at the lower end of the track bar.

i finally got to forklift flex mine a few weeks ago, and noticed the track bar is binding cutting off about 2" of extra droop i could have.

 

[arsoul]

Warn vs. Supior, Spicer vs. CTM, I dunno, they are all good and all are tough, some tougher than others, but if you drive half as hard as I do, think about one thing:
Weak Link.
I run warn hubs, shafts with spicer ujoints, and yes, I have broken them, I've run supior shafts and broken them as well, but warn is easier to deal with in my opinion. There's one thing on my rig thats saved me more money than anything in the long run, and thats Warns fusealbe links for their hubs. $20 for a pair to keep in the rig, they pop before an expensive and hard to replace axle/ujoint explode, and they only take 5 minutes to replace, 10 if your drinking.

 

[offroader_69_me]

I would put in a vote for the 5.13's I went with them and LOVE the low end, however with 35's top speed is about 70. shafts and joints are stock for now until they break, and using a lock-rite