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c4 worth it

scotiascrapiron

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estill s.c.
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bronco ll 86
i've a c4 thats going in my b ll with c5 housing and shaft. problem is, nobody i've talked to has anything good to say about a c4. they all say that it will quit shifting like it should if you look at it straight. even the guy at the trans shop said it. what's the deal with the c4,should i use it or not?
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I know its very popular for drag cars, and offroad tranny swaps when the person is using a 302 or 4.0.

Ive never heard a bad thing about it, maybe they are talking about a c5 instead. Those are suppost to be weaker.
 






I agree with snoboarder. My C4 is even guaranteed for a year and the man that built it knows that it's going in my B2 build with a mod. 302. Now it does have a B&M shift kit also.

I'll let you know by this summer how it handles the lead foot.
 






The issue is C-4s are usually compared to the bigger c-6 in most race/muscle car organizations. Due to physical size the c-4 loses in the strength category. You have to keep things in perspective though. Google "performance C-4 transmission" and you will find builders who will make you a C-4 to handle hundreds if not more than a thousand horsepower. Your needs are probably not that big (I'm guessing.)

If you want an automatic and don't want overdrive for towing or some other reason. The C-4/5 is your anser for a RBV with an RBV V-6. The comparison between the C-4 and C-5 is extremly opinionated. If you like the old C-4 the 5 was crap, and if you consider what Ford did with the C-5 a good idea then you can't understand why anyone would resort to the antiquated 4. The 4 definatly has more performance parts, tricks and mods established for it, but you can do most of those to the C-5 also. Again, for the power level found in these trucks the difrence seems academic, I love my C-5 but nothing is fooling me into thinking your C-4 is a lesser transmission. If your C-4 was gone through and serviced or rebuilt when the new tailshaft was put on then slap that sucker behind your cologn V-6 of choice and run it. It will take care of you long after you get bored and want something else.

Ron
 






They're only weak stock. Make it shift hard, put some goodies into it.. and you'd wonder why you paid the horsepower and weight penalty of a C6 for a small block application.

I have an RBV C5 in my V8 BroncoII with a V8 C4 valve body and "A" servo. The only reason people think C5s suck is because of the stupid, grandma's Taurus shiftin' valve body ford put into them. Mine barks 2nd like any C4 would..
 






They're only weak stock. Make it shift hard, put some goodies into it.. and you'd wonder why you paid the horsepower and weight penalty of a C6 for a small block application.

I have an RBV C5 in my V8 BroncoII with a V8 C4 valve body and "A" servo. The only reason people think C5s suck is because of the stupid, grandma's Taurus shiftin' valve body ford put into them. Mine barks 2nd like any C4 would..


That's what my transmission builder said. He said "wait till you feel this thing shift" referring the the B&M shift kit that I had him install in it. Also this will generate less heat in the shifting process.
 






c4 goodies?

what goodies are available for a c4 and where? can you give us some tips to make it better, we want it for an off road ford explorer, has the 4.0 ohv engine. what can be done to make it shift better.., thks..
 






I run a C4 linked to my internally built 428SCJ I put into my '64 T-Bird. It seems to be an extremely hearty transmission as it's the original one and only been rebuilt once. I'd say you should be fine with mounting anything on up to it. Probably a little late now but still wanted to give some input.
 






Well its been few months since I posted on this post. My c4/c5 has worked like a charm. Like I said it's also coupled to a highly modded bored out 302 with Edelbrock aluminum heads with all the big valves. The runners in the heads are short for more low end torque. Including Edlelbrock aluminum Performer manifold, roller rockers and aftermarket cam for stump pulling torque. Holley Off road carb handles the gas going in and L&L headers handle the gas going out. I also have the B&M shift kit which makes it shift hard with no hesitation. This helps dependability of the tranny. Less heat on the clutches.
Now I will say this. I have a Hurst shifter and the cable has to be exactly right or you may have trouble getting in first or not getting in 3rd. I had to adjust the arm coming off the tranny a few times and also adjusting the nuts on the cable. The instructions even mention that the C4 has to adjusted just right.
 






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