Can’t believe my luck

[JB-1956]

If he took off the front drive shaft then where is it? The front hubs are not free wheeling so the diff turns all the time, as does the front prop. All that happens is the electric clutch in the transfer case dis-engages. So no power goes to the front. Normal reason people take the front drive shaft out is failure in the transfer case, like stuck in 4x4 high or front bearing gone in transfer case.

Yes Howard that’s what I thought. When I got the first Ex, the seller said you could feel the hubs engaging but to me it felt like the transfer box engaging, so like I said on the second Ex it was pointless removing the prop shaft. The guy who owned the second ex didn’t know where the Prop shaft was

Another thing I noticed is the steering feels lumpy as I turn the wheel as if the PAS fluid is low but when I checked its okay.

 

[1AJeremyD]

I would have to agree with howard on this. Sounds like there might be some more issues when you end up putting in the drive shaft.

I do enjoy the idea of a larger gas tank/secondary even though it would be wallet killer whenever you do decide to fill it up.

 

[1AJeremyD]

Another thing I noticed is the steering feels lumpy as I turn the wheel as if the PAS fluid is low but when I checked its okay.

There is most likely air inside the system. Driver it for awhile going full rotation in the steering wheel. Over time It should be fine. Happens to vehicles that have their wheel turned with the vehicle off or in my case, when the truck sits for too long.

 

[JB-1956]

I would have to agree with howard on this. Sounds like there might be some more issues when you end up putting in the drive shaft. QUOTE]

Well my game plan is to "Borrow" parts from the first Ex to see if they work on this one before i obtain a replacement part.

I'm also going to book it in for an MOT in the next week or so then at least I'll know what it needs to get it on the road

 

[techieman33]

you don't have to drive it to bleed the air out of the power steering, just start it up and turn the wheel lock to lock several times. If it still feels like it has air in it, then repeat the process.

 

[janolsson]

Well the guys have already said it
My first thought when i saw "need a front prop" is there is a reason it was taken off and this usually means transfer case problems.
hopefully your other prop will fit but i think i read somewhere that there is a difference.
Justin is the guy at explorerpartsuk that breaks and repairs ex's. he is based in Newport. I have had good experience dealing with him for parts and others have spoken highly of his work on their cars. Chrisquelch on here also breaks exs and is based in Fareham.

If it comes to needing a replacement transfer box then make sure you get one from 98 on as the vss sensor is not on the 98 on.

The front prop is connected to the case with 12mm 12 point star bolts.(not torx just standard 12 point socket).

On the steering does it just feel a bit stiff with the odd point of more resistance or do you get a bit of vibration. As the guys have said turning the steering with engine off will introduce air into the sytem. To get rid of this i have had success by turning the engine on and then either on soft ground or with the front wheels on magazines turn the wheels lock to lock a few times (DO NOT HOLD AT FULL LOCK AS THIS PUTS A STRAIN ON THE PUMP). If the symptoms are just some stiff points then have a look at the linkage in the engine bay down near the o/s exhaust manifold. There is a basic u/j there that has a rubber boot on it. This boot gets cooked by the manifold heat and cracks and looses grease and gets moisture and dirt!!! with a bit of fiddling the shaft can be removed (one bolt top and bottom) and the joint cleaned, regreased and a new universal steering rack boot adapted for protection.

I'm interested in this now to follow how the new old girl gets a new lease of life.

Good luck with your new project.

 

[JB-1956]

Hi Howard, the guy said he took the front prop off because he didn’t want 4-wheel drive but wanted more economy but just removing the front prop won’t achieve this because the front axle assembly still turns as the hubs are fixed so there’s still drag reducing the fuel economy.

What I need to know is how do I read gearbox codes? What type of scanners do I need? How do I use them? Other posts refer to the flashing O/D light to highlight gearbox faults but I do not have these, it drives okay until the temp gauge starts to register then I stop, shift to reverse and the drive is lost, it won’t go anywhere. Leave until the next day and I can start it up and drive off no problem.

Help please?

 

[Howard]

I presume that it has got enough fluid in it and that it is a nice bright pink colour?

 

[JB-1956]

Yes Howard there is plenty of fluid in but it is a dark brown, almost black colour. I know this does want changing but I was going to wait until the problem had been diagnosed.

Should I change it before I go any further and if so should I use some kind of oil wash and change it several times?

Advice is always gratefully received

 

[JB-1956]

By the way guys, while I’ve been driving the Ex around the field trying to find a common denominator each time the gear box fails, the steering problem has sorted itself out and steers nicely now.

 

[Howard]

Yes Howard there is plenty of fluid in but it is a dark brown, almost black colour. I know this does want changing but I was going to wait until the problem had been diagnosed.

Should I change it before I go any further and if so should I use some kind of oil wash and change it several times?

Advice is always gratefully received

Sounds horrible. A rebuilt box may be the answer. Might have blown some seals, gaskets etc.

 

[gmanpaint]

Most likely the t-case is getting hot with that bad fluid. The sensors are telling the Trans to go into limp mode and than to safety mode, which is neutral. Water is a killer of fluids. Check that the t-case vent tube is in place, and has the one way cap on the end.

I would change the fluids asap, and see what happens. Look in the old fluids for debris, if there is any, these are clues to whats going on inside.

Trans codes are not read with an engine code reader, if you don't own a trans code reader, a local trans shop/dealer will.

 

[JB-1956]

Well Guys, it’s been a while but last week I finally got round to dropping the transmission oil pan and changing the filter which is an easy but messy job as there’s not a transmission drain plug. Once I looked inside the oil pan I was fairly confident I’d found the problem, there was a ¼” (6mm) layer of sludge in the pan. Once back in place with a new filter, gasket and fluid I reversed it off the ramps and knew there was improvement straight away. I drove it around the field for a mile or so stopping and shifting to reverse occasionally without any problem other than a slight delay in shifting between forward and reverse. Happy with the result I booked it in for MOT first thing this morning but…
…Yesterday morning I decided to nip up to the local petrol station and put some petrol in to save messing about this morning, as I would have been coming off the late shift. I got to the station 5-miles away having pushed the transmission to check out the shift changes and kick down, which worked a treat. I removed the fuel cap and pushed the pump nozzle into the filler. I was just about to start filling when I noticed some daylight down the side of the nozzle and on further investigation found the top of the filler pipe had rotted away and the filler pipe was just hanging in mid-air under the rear wing, so MOT cancelled and another job to sort out.

 

[janolsson]

Whoo hooo, looks like you are getting there!

What fluid did you put in the transmission as it takes mercon V only. the transfer case takes standard mercon (there must be a drain plug but i cant remember when i last looked)

The filler neck is fairly common. The down side of this is there is likely to be mud and water in the tank and so will need a good clean out. Start spraying penetrant on the tank strap bolts now in preparation .

Keep at it and it might be ready for the ford fair

Jan

 

[BIGHVM]

Well done dude! Fantastic detective work.

 

[JB-1956]

Thanks for that H
Jan, I’m pretty sure the tank’s okay, remember this thing’s been stood over 3-years and I’m sure the deterioration of the filler neck has occurred during that time. I got a 2nd hand filler neck, complete with the rubber pipes still attached, from a breaker in Hull. A bit expensive at £40 especially when it broke whilst I was fitting it, right underneath where the pipe clips secure the rubber. I considered taking it back but that wouldn’t have solve my problem so as my original filler had rotted at the top and the replacement was rotten at the opposite end, I cut them both in half and welded the 2-good halves together, it worked a treat.
Last Tuesday the 20th I managed to get a MOT slot at my local station which specialises in 4x4 vehicles. I explained to the guy prior to the appointment that my Explorer had been stood for 3-years so he suggested I go the long way to the test station and do some hard braking on the way, which I did to the point where I lost the brakes having boiled the brake fluid, another job to do, changing the brake fluid. When I arrived at the test station the sun was just at the right angle to highlight the smoke coming from the wheel arches and bonnet edges. I told the tester what I’d been doing and he came and took the vehicle details then said we’ll give it a few minutes to cool down.
Eventually, the test got underway. I don’t know what it is but when I take any motor in for test I stand at that rail in the observation area just as on edge as I was when each of my kid were born. Then the tester says “bit of rust on some of the brake pipes … But nothing serious”, “Discs a bit rusty but brakes okay”, “ So it’s passed but with some advisories”
Excellent.

 

[JB-1956]

I think my luck might have just run out…

…I’ve been running the Ex for just over a week now trying to find the most economic mode of driving. Well I found it today… it’s very cheap to run when it comes home on the back of a recovery truck.

I pulled out of a road junction on to a busy main road and gunned it to get up to speed with the other traffic, about 60-MPH. As I hit 60, I backed it off a bit and noticed it didn’t change up. A mile down the road and a little uphill gradient and time to give her a bit of gas and the revs went up but there was no acceleration. I decided to pull in at the end of a farm track to keep the road clear and that was the last the wheels turned under its own power. I waited about half an hour in vane before sending for the recovery to no avail.

So it’s sat outside the cottage at the moment awaiting some TLC and some serious investigations. :frustrate

 

[JB-1956]

Sounds horrible. A rebuilt box may be the answer. Might have blown some seals, gaskets etc.

I might need your help here Howard

 

[janolsson]

OK first thing, would it go into reverse or lost all gears
Has it still got the correct fluid level (engine temp up to warm and running)
Did you use mecon 'V'
Can you drop the pan again to see if all is well with the filter.
Start searching the transmission section for some info on separator plate for the valve body and epc solenoid and harness

The other thing to note is the amount of silt you found. That is probably friction material from the clutch pack wearing over 10 years.
There are always debates about whether or not to flush the auto box as new fluid can show up worn friction plates.

If you are going to replace the box then you can use any uk box but the earlier 96-97 one has an extra sensor but this can just be left unconnected. If you are also changing over the t case then you will need the 98 on.

Oh and sorry it ain't worked out as easy as it might, but now you have something else to play with

 

[janolsson]

Oh and i may have a torque converter in the garage (not sure if i gave it away) that you can have but it will cost a fortune to post as they are heavy (still got fluid in that you can't pour out)