Can I make the 4.0 fast enough?

[SteveVB]

To get what you want you have to go into the engine.

the mods above are fine, but you HAVE TO do headers, cam, head work to get anything from this engine IMO.

As suggested above a two stage build up would be smart.
1st do some easy bolt ons:
Intake/filter
TB
Cat Back
Apten

2nd stage tear into the engine
port and polish your heads- with a 96 I think you have the good 95 tm heads.
new cam comp cams 422 (springs,push rods etc) or maybe bigger custom grind (depends on what you want to do drivasbility, trans axles etc)
headers
Adjustable MAF
24 lb injectors
if you have the budget get some pistons with a smaller dish to increase the static compression a point or so(10:1) could shave the heads a bit also.
reprogram the Apten chip
Stage 2 cost guess would be around $3000-5000 depending on how much you can do.

I would guess a 200+ rwhp with a build like this , but I have little to back this up
stage 3 N2O
If you want more I would pull the manifold and tap it for some N20 nozzles and add another 100-150 to it.
then reprogram the apten chip

gears and tires will come into play- 3.73s & stock dia tires would probably work best with the "big" cam

 

[rydinhigh]

Originally posted by Alec
31 rwhp gain is great for intake, exhaust, tb, and chip

It most certainly is but its a far cry from the 220rwhp he wants lol

 

[huskyfan23]

I didn't think he wanted rear wheel.

 

[Alec]

For 220 rwhp from the OHV you need to either be highly built internally with nitrous, or have forced induction.

Again, if he's planning on getting a hi-po car in the semi-near future I think he should save his money and just do simple bolt-ons for now.

 

[huskyfan23]

Yeah, but if he wanted a sleeper, SUV for that matter, and had enough for the 'stage 2', he would probably be better off with a v8.

 

[Doug904]

Vortech supercharger, Stage 3 4.0 Peformance heads, Stage 2 camkit, 24lbs inj, 66m TB, 75mm Pro-M Mass air, BBK headers, 2.5" catback exhaust, and custom dyno tuned Apten chip. With a good clutch on a manual this should have you around 220-240 RWHP with a stock auto 210-230RWHP.
On a 100 shot of nitrous with a stage one cam this combo yeilded 251 RWHP, with a manual and stock heads.

Now all in all this will run you around $6,000. How fast you wanna go?

Later Doug904.

 

[Mbrooks420]

I'd do a few simple bolt ons and wait till you can buy something that is somewhat fast(or at least not SLOW, like the explorers). When you start adding horsepower you take an already anemic transmission, and then put the boots to it. I have trouble keeping trannies in my stocker, I'd hate to see what would happen with 220hp through them.

 

[FordExplorer18]

Originally posted by Geminidj2000
Ok this will be long I was thinking today and i was like I wont do the 5.0swap because even if i did supercharge it so im gonnamod the v6 and save for the 2005 svt cobra or a 2003 lancer evo or 2003 wrx thats a while off 2005 some time so i got a while.

heres the deal this is what i want and hopefully u guys can tell me how to get there

wish list for 1996 4.0 Explorer:
emissions legal 220 hp
60 in 8 seconds or less on 18's

thats all

these are the mods i wanna do ill buy most off of explorer express if u could tell me how much hp to expect

Jet or hypertec chip
intake
gibson or borla exhaust
66mm throttle body
headers
more agressive cams

and thats it will i be able to achive my goal or no?

I dont know if I would plan on a 2003 Cobra. That will be the first year of the new Mustang and normally they will not offer the Cobra in the first year of the new model production. The same way Chevy will not offer a Z06 in the first year of the C6. The new mustang concept looked good but the actual release production looks pretty nasty(if you havent seen it) didnt mean to highjack

 

[Geminidj2000]

yo i just rread this again i didnt want rear wheel horsepower just 220 at the fly wheel u said i would gain 31 just from the intake and all the other bolt on's that would put me at at least 191 hp at 3200 rpm at the flywheel a v8 jeep grand cheerokee larado with 245 hits 60 in 8 really i woulkd be looking at at least 210-230 my other goal is to hit 60 in 8 can i do that? rem,ber i have a xlt spo its a bit lighter then the eddie bauers

 

[huskyfan23]

What's the stock 0-60? I think it's like 10.. with those bolt-ons I think you'd hit 8.

 

[Geminidj2000]

yeh its like 10 a v-8 explorer hits it in 7. something I was thinking abouttrying to hit the 7.0 mark but i fdont think that possible witout the supercharger on the v-6

 

[huskyfan23]

Try the bolt-ons and see how you like it.. I have all of them but the MAF and my X is very noticeably quicker than stock.

 

[rydinhigh]

Geminidj2000: I hit 151 rwhp with intake, cat back exhaust, apten chip and throttle body. Drivetrain loss is about 15% so figure thats around 173-174 crank horse power. There aren't many other bolt ons you can get for the OHV (mass air=not worth it headers=not worth it). So unless you do n2o or a charger your not going to hit your goal.

 

[SteveVB]

Originally posted by rydinhigh
(mass air=not worth it headers=not worth it).

Not really true. This keeps being brought up, but it doesnt make much sense. When you start down a path of mods to the engine, you open up one thing and another is a restriction. The engine is a system and depending on what rpm range you are running in they can be worth something as part of a system- any single piece may not be worth anything... But put a few together and you have a different system with different criteria. As you add pieces to the puzzle other things change. A blanket statement like they arent worth something isnt productive.
I found the MAF to be very worthwhile- the headers were fine, everything working together. If you have a cat back, a Tb, and a filter the MAF and headers are next.

Gemini -I think you could get a bit more than 200 at the crank with a -comp cam 422 , + filter, TB,MAF Headers and a chip to pull it all together. Gears should be a bit lower than stock since I think the power range is going to be 400-600 ropm higher than stock. Without gears you wont be able to use any of the power you make.

 

[Alec]

MAS is helpful 91-94, 95+ not nearly as much.

Headers the same, though they're less helpful than MAS on first gens. Not worth the swap unless your stock manifolds are toast or you're going forced induction.

 

[SteveVB]

Originally posted by Alec
MAS is helpful 91-94, 95+ not nearly as much.

Headers the same, though they're less helpful than MAS on first gens. Not worth the swap unless your stock manifolds are toast or you're going forced induction.

or you have a larger cam, or lower gears- both of which can use the power at higher rpm where most headers (unless you get some custom tuned designed headers) really shine. I ran headers and they seemed to give aboost at the top end, but I didnt really loose anything at the low end- but I dont know if that was cam selection, or the headers.

Why isnt the MAF more helpful on the 95's? The MAF on my 91 is tiny, didnt know it was much different on the 95+

 

[Alec]

91-94 stock is 55, 95+ is 70 mm (equal to like a 67-68 aftermarket due to the thick centersection). Thus, the MAS isn't really a restriction 95+. Hell, I was running the stocker on mine, but was gonna switch with the head swap which never happened.

 

[Pheonixx77]

heres what have and plan on what you all think...
Cut through hood scoops, open cone style K&N filter(sort of forced induction, not supercharger though), borla cat back exaust, superchip, tornado ( ) hollowed out cats.
PLANS: heads/intake port polish, headders, maybe a cam, bigger MAF and bigger TB....

what you think that will get me? never seen a dyno...yet...

 

[Mbrooks420]

Don't hollow out your cats. They are there for a reason. Buy a single high flow cat. The truck will run better, and you won't get a CEL.

 

[Josh]

Could you use a 95+ MAS on a first GEN X and notice a difference? Could you just use the MAS housing with the the 91 MAS and make a difference. I could go to the junkyard and get this stuff cheap. Sorry I'm broke.