Can I make the 4.0 fast enough?

[SteveVB]

Oh yea, what is the diameter? 5/16?

Yes, 5/16 diameter, but the ends have the bigger ball which I believe is 3/8 but Im not positive. When I called Smith Brothers pushrods they knew what I needed when I told them what engine I was working on. Remember lighter is better. Chrome moly tubulars will be a bit lighter than stock rods.

 

[Josh]

Thanks again guys. I figured out the problem with my tranny. When I put the new motor in, I had cylinders 1 and 2 swapped on the coil pack. That caused the truck to run like Chitty Chitty Bang Bang. It backfired out of the intake wich blew the vacum line down on the tranny off. If you haven't seen that before, it can realy throw you off.

 

[Josh]

Well, I drove to Philly last week and came back today. On the way up, I averaged 18 MPG with out AC. On the way back I got aroud 15 with the AC. I also think there is a problem with my pro-m MAF. I kept getting a check engine light and a 41 error code(O2 sensor). I bought a new O2 and same problem. I replaced the MAF with my stock one and problem is gone. I wonder if they messed up the programming maybe 24# instead of 19#. The motor runs rich with the Pro-M in there. :fire:

 

[Ronin8002]

the 24# program would actually make it run lean...since the injectors flow more the pulse width is shortened. Sometimes an aftermarket MAF will cause CEL issues. Best way to deal with it is send it back to be fixed, or, if you have a chip or are getting one, have them offset that in the programming.

Are you running the 410 cam with the new pushrods yet? what do you think of it?

 

[Josh]

Yea, I got the new motor in with the 410 cam but not the pushrods. With the stock p-rods I am not impressed at all. Could the longer push rods make the difference? I will get them soon(Couple of weeks). In the current config, the motor is only slightly better than my 220K one. I also have the Eaton M-62 to put on soon as well. Besides the brackets, FMU, VAC/Boost guage what else should I get? Inline fuel pump? If so, what flow rate should I be looking for?

 

[Skeets'91EB]

I had that exact same problem with my Pro-M MAF but I think my problem is because I broke the clip on the wire harness when I removed it from the stock one, so when the "check engine" light comes on I pop the hood and move the harness a little and problem solved for so many hours/days.

 

[Josh]

I put the stock MAF back in before I left for Philly. 270 miles and no problems. While I was there, I put the Pro-M back in and within 20 minutes my CEL came on. I put the stock one back in and drove back with no problems. I have been having intermittant CEL's since I installed it. Is there any way to check the MAF with a meter?

 

[Ronin8002]

Josh,

yes, the longer pushrods will make it perform as it should...remember that shorter pushrods aren't pushing the rocker arms up as high, which translates to the valves not opening as much as the cam was designed to do, therefore making a difference in the power you feel from the cam.



Ultimately the limiting factor is your heads, but the cam does help noticeably.

As far as the fuel pump...you can go with either an inline or an in-tank. If you go with just an inline and your in-tank fails, the inline will still pull fuel through the in tank pump.

155lph is about all you'll need. If you go bigger than 190lph on an in tank pump though you'll probably burn out the pump because the factory fuel lines are pretty small and make the pump work too hard.

I'm running a 155 in tank and a 155 inline