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Can someone help me with this question.

jremington59

Explorer Addict
Joined
October 28, 2009
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City, State
Watertown, NY
Year, Model & Trim Level
1997, 99 and 2000 5.0's
I have a 97 5.0 AWD Explorer, but it has a motor that is a 96. I found out today that ford put some 96 motors in some of the early 97 Explorers. Anyways. Before I found this out the dealer gave me a printout of the motor components as I threw a P0401 code. This printout showed an EGR tube and a seperate DPFE sensor. When in truth, my 97 has the EGR valve with the sensor that bolts to the end of the EGR valve.

My question is, does that sensor that bolts onto the EGR valve serve the purpose that the seperate DPFE sensor does? Also I read there are internal ports that supply the returned exhaust to the engine. Can someone tell me where these internal ports are located as in my readings I read that these ports can become plugged the same as an EGR tube can become plugged.

I'd like to start getting this fixed, but I'd like to make sure I have some understanding of how the EGR setup works in this engine.

I did change the control valve that is to the left of the EGR valve and it still kicked the check engine light after it was replaced.
 



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Hi Jremington59.
Causes

A code P0401 most likely means one or more of the following has happened:

* The DPFE (differential pressure feedback EGR) sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced
* There is a blockage in the EGR (tube), most likely carbon buildup
* The EGR valve is faulty
* The EGR valve may not be opening due to a lack of vaccuum

Possible Solutions

In fixing this code, it is quite common for people to just replace the EGR valve only to have the OBD code return. The EGR valve is not always the culprit.

* Use a vacuum pump and pull the EGR valve open while monitoring engine RPM's & DPFE voltage. There should be a noticable difference in RPM's with the EGR open
* Clean out the EGR valve and/or tubing to remove deposits
* Check the voltage at the DPFE, compare to specified values (refer to a repair manual for your specific model)
* Replace the DPFE sensor (with a good quality / OEM one)
* Replace the EGR valve
I have read the same on clogged ports and carbon buildup etc.

From my research of P0401 it is most likely the DPFE
Differential Pressure Feedback EGR Sensor.
It is a very well known problem with Ford/Lincoln/Mercury.
I read in many articles to replace DPFE sensor with one purchased from a dealer or a high quality brand replacement part. There about $35.00 at the dealer. Check http://www.rockauto.com/index.php?a=G-Store&gclid=CITHnNeJ-J0CFcZM5QodoUaupw for a lower price.

Good luck... I'm in the same P0401 boat with my wife's Lincoln Town Car.
Isn't this emissions B.S. fun?

I hope this info helps;
Rick
 






DFPE readings

Your DPFE should have two tubes connected to it. One connects before an orifice in the EGR pipe and one after the orifice. Ford used two types of DPFEs - one plastic housing and one metallic housing. There was a reliability problem with the metallic from water condensation so they are probably no longer available. If you backprobe the signal and ground connector pins on the plastic DPFE the reading should be 0.75 to 1.25 volts with the engine cold and idling (no EGR). After the engine warms up, increase the engine speed to around 1500 rpm (not idling) and the voltage should increase. I can actually hear my EGR valve pop closed while driving at low speeds when I release the accelerator.
 












Thx guys for the response.

Mine has a 96 motor so it doesn't have the standard 2 vac hose with a plug, DPFE. I'm wondering if the sensor that connects directly to the EGR valve serves as the DPFE?

Also, has anyone else ever had to clean the internal ports? There are lots of threads here regarding the standard setup with the EGR tube, but I'm not finding any regarding the internal port set up.
 






yes. In the internal egr sytem, the egr "flow" is determined by the position of the egr sensor.

this does make the troubleshooting a bit more difficult.
 






So are you saying I could change the sensor and it could still throw a code if it's not positioned correctly?

I can't afford to tear any more hair out, lol.
 






I would first check the operation of the egr valve and linkage under vacuum. Then, I would check the vacuum lines. I am not sure if the sensor itself has an adjustable position or not--sorry.

you may be able to test the sensor for high and low state.

as far as the actual egr gasses, your system ( unlike the dpfe system used in external egr systems) has no way to determine if the gas passages are clogged, so, the reason for the code must be a mechanical, or, electrical fault.

this only applies to v8 Explorers and Mountaineers from 96 to early 97 model years.

ALL other explorers and mountaineers use a DPFE , which actually senses the flow of egr gasses.
 






Thx Turdle

I picked up the egr sensor for 25 dollars so for the small cost I'm going to change it as I have no testers. The Ford garage also told me it's common for the inside ports to clog with carbon. I wish everything wasn't so hard to get to.

I got it scanned again and now it's also showing a P0141 which I think is the o2 sensor on the drivers side before the cat.

If I hadn't got such a good price on the rig I'd be getting aggravated.
 












Thx Turdle

I picked up the egr sensor for 25 dollars so for the small cost I'm going to change it as I have no testers. The Ford garage also told me it's common for the inside ports to clog with carbon. I wish everything wasn't so hard to get to.

I got it scanned again and now it's also showing a P0141 which I think is the o2 sensor on the drivers side before the cat.

If I hadn't got such a good price on the rig I'd be getting aggravated.

P0141 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)

P0141 is the right side/passenger side "downstream/after cat" sensor... not upstream.

This link was the earlier issues/solutions I had...
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2315277&postcount=1
 






A friend has a lift and I went to put in the o2 sensor only to find out that you have to go through the floor to get to the plug, lol. It didn't matter what angle we tried there was no way either of us were getting our arms through anywhere. Is it just the cupholder that has to come out to get to the trap door? And if so is it just "clipped" on. I couldn't see any nuts or anything and I apologize for not doing a search.

On an unrelated note, I have a leak in the passenger exhaust manifold so I took it to one of the "name brand" muffler shops today for an estimate. They tried to find the leak from underneath and couldn't find it so they put the vehicle back down to look through the front wheelwell. I swear what happened next is the truth. Instead of pulling the clips and removing the flap, the worker tore the flap off so he could see the manifold. I stood there for a minute and finally snapped. I went out and showed him how to unsnap the clips, in a not so nice manner. I then went to the other side, that I couldn't see and the manager himself had done the same thing to that one. Needles to say I told them to get the truck down off that lift and I mean now. The manager then proceeded to try and tell me both were already torn, which only made me madder. I can only imagine how they treat someones vehicle when they aren't there watching.

Thanks for the replies guys.
 






inner flaps

Before I took my Sport in for an alignment, I took the inner flaps off and left them at home. Afterwards, I reinstalled them myself. Sorry about what happened to yours. Some shops have no regard for anyone else's property.
 






Thats a good idea. I'll remember that one. The guy told me to bring him a receipt for the one and I was so aggravated I told him I'd take care of it. I don't even know where to get them. I have a 97 4.0 for parts and I'm hoping they have them still.

I'm trying to figure how to get through the floor to change the o2 sensor. I've got the cup holder out and the holder in front of it but there is a bracket that holds all the wires and I'm unsure what has to come out and what doesn't. Does anyone know of a link here as I couldn't find one.
 






You will need to remove the whole console. There are 2 bolts and 1 nut to remove if i recall correctly on the bottom and then the 2 bolts at the front of the console. Then take a piece of wood and place it on the metal bracket that goes just about right behind the tissue box holder. Hit the piece of wood very hard with a mallot to force the console backwards. This will dislodge the 2 hooks that lock the console to the floor.

It may seem like a pain in the ass to do this but its not really all that difficult. Once you do it once it will come as second nature the next time you have to do it. After you get it out. you can either remove the carpet or do what i did and just cut it down the middle with a razor blade. The cut seam will be covered by the console anyway. Good luck.
 












Thanks guys, this is very helpful.

Turdle, great tutorial, pics and explanations. This really simplifies things. I had no idea about the floor clip. Thank you again.

Just one last question. Mine has a cd changer and the rear heat/air. Do these cause any concern or does it just still slide out?
 






it should just slide right out.


You might find an additional connector to disconnect for the cd deck. The rear air and heat is part of all full length consoles.
 






I guess you were right when you said you really had to hit it hard, lol. I used an 8 pd sledge and with the little bit of swinging room I really had to wack it.

Another question. When I had it up on the lift I never marked the position of the sensors. Is the access panel in front of the black bracket that the 8mm screws were at? I can't feel it through the carpet.
 



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