Can't get it started

[koda2000]

Wow, that sounds like a lot of work and bother. Why not just replace the fuel pump? It's really not that hard to do and you can get a quality fuel pump on eBay for around $40-$50 bucks (eg: Bosch 69128 pump kit).

On a 2000 model the fuel pressure needs to be around 65 PSI coming from the tank, but it's not continuous and the fuel pressure regulator is mechanical and is located in the fuel tank.

 

[backporch]

Setting this up is probably easier than replacing the pump... and makes for a good thought exercise and story to tell. It will not be that expensive either. I have the compressor and I think the setup will probably cost around $25 to build. If the fasteners weren't half gone on the tank, might be a different story.

i saw replacement pumps for around 20$ so it could even be cheaper, but I really don't want to mess with the tank/rust or that gas.

65PSI is a number that I saw in another post, so it sounds right. thanks. Do you know how the fuel pressure is regulated? I think the pump is a constant speed and always on. Is there some smarts in the tank to change the pressure based on some condition.
With my pancake compressor's reguator I can do a pretty good job at hitting that 65 consistently, as long as I keep the size of the container at 1/2 the compressor size or less.

 

[Turdle]

Fuel pump access door cut into floor beneath driver side rear seat.

 

[backporch]

Jon. Thanks for that picture. I started down that path and cut a hole with a hole saw and then saw how much more I needed to cut. Not all thin sheet metal as your picture shows with the seat belt anchor and additional steel running side to side. I have nothing to loose with the car being eventually scrapped, but I held back getting out the griding wheel with all the fuel lines so damn close below. The tin snips I own were no match for this

 

[Turdle]

Yup to all you said but I did it anyway. The thicker metal is cut, used a combo of grinding wheel, nibbler and dremmel tool.

bore corner holes first then connect them, and I think using a worn out, or, smaller cutting wheel helps a little also.

 

[koda2000]

On a 2000 model the fuel pump is prohibited from putting out more than around 65-67 PSI by the mechanical FPR inside the tank. It will just dump excess pressure back into the tank.

I believe the PCM also controls when the fuel pump runs and perhaps at various voltages. I'm not 100% sure of this, but I've read something to this effect. I know with key ON it only runs the pump for about 2 seconds to prime. IIRC at times the PCM will only run the pump at 5 volts.

If you cut a hole a hole in the floor to access the fuel pump assembly getting at the pump is easy and the retaining bolts are small and typically not rusty. Pumps are as cheap as $20 on eBay if you're not going to really use the truck you could go that way.

 

[backporch]

Thanks to everyone for the fantastic information and options. I am going to go forward with the canister and hopefully can post some results and some pictures for everyone's enjoyment.

 

[backporch]

I got it running today. The setup to run from a pvc tank worked well. The only hitch was the first plug being shot out. The alternate plug worked fine. Was able to put the charged compressor in the back seat and run up and down the street

View attachment 159368

 

[koda2000]

Was the purpose of this exercise just to see if the engine and transmission are part out-able?

 

[backporch]

I wanted to know the engine ran well before swapping and check for oil pressure and that the accessories were ok. I basically want to have a god idea of what works and what doesn't. Don't want to have to pull it from the ranger
It will also help to be able to drive it into the garage prior to pulling the engine. Pushing it up even the slightest grade was a big effort

On a side note the power steering was shaky on slow left turns could that be air in the system?

 

[German Engineer]

Yup to all you said but I did it anyway. The thicker metal is cut, used a combo of grinding wheel, nibbler and dremmel tool.

bore corner holes first then connect them, and I think using a worn out, or, smaller cutting wheel helps a little also.

I wrote some longer arguments in an old thread while ago, so let me just briefly state here that in my humble engineer opinion cutting that kind of access hole is a REALLY REALLY bad idea!
Especially if you plan on smoking in your car, plan to be taking it off road or want to sell it some day.

Any collision that forces the fuel tank upwards, be it with another car or - more likely - with a rock or any sturdy object hitting the gas tank from below - forcing it upwards and ripping the fuel line, will basically end up "shoving a 20 gallon flamethrower" from under your back seat right into the cabin.

 

[koda2000]

I wanted to know the engine ran well before swapping and check for oil pressure and that the accessories were ok. I basically want to have a god idea of what works and what doesn't. Don't want to have to pull it from the ranger
It will also help to be able to drive it into the garage prior to pulling the engine. Pushing it up even the slightest grade was a big effort

On a side note the power steering was shaky on slow left turns could that be air in the system?

Shaky steering: You introduced air into the power steering by moving the vehicle around w/out the engine running. No big deal, it happens all the time. With the engine running turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock 6-8 times to purge the air out.

 

[backporch]

Thanks for the post on the steering. Moving it around without it running was exactly what I did.