I introduced myself yesterday morning before I decided to dig into the headlight situation. I went in armed with the knowledge that the multifunction switch (wiper/signal/high beam combination switch) on the column was the likely culprit. I had to prove it to the hubby though.
Took my tool kit out and started tearing down the dash. I won't go into details bc there are dozens of posts here re: this exact issue. Before I got very far I had to check all fuses, as some dim wit had wired two sets of aftermarket fog lights straight to the main headlights. I demanded the previous owner fully remove them prior to purchase.
My tip for digging into this project is to have some pliers available in case your tilt wheel stem has never been removed. There's a nice little flat groove on it allowing it to be unscrewed. I greased it before putting it back in, so that it would be easier to turn next time.
So, I got the MFS out and decided to take it apart and check it out. There was a ton of corrosion, so I took some very fine grit sandpaper to the contacts. I discovered a little removable plastic card with two contacts on it, one of them was obviously fried. I cleaned it, added some dielectric grease, and put it back inside the switch.
I put the switch back together, but I pushed that little card in too far, I'll explain here in a minute. Put the switch back on the column, replaced the column shrouds and tilt wheel stem and metal guard under the steering wheel. I put the keys in, turned it to on position, then hooked the battery back up. Presto! Lights!!!!!
Then the battery started smoking. Ugh.
Turned it off and unhook battery quickly. Assuming the lights were drawing too much voltage without the engine running, hooked battery back up without key in. Started Casper up, still lights. As soon as MFS was pulled to check brights, there was a crunch. .. where I had placed the card too far into the switch with the lever in the wrong position. Duh.
Lights went out, brights began flickering with jiggle of stem. Looked up a new (not used, brand spanking new) mfs on eBay --- $25!!!!! Ordered immediately.
My question --- I purchased the sploder with the rear view mirror unhooked and had fallen off the damaged windshield. Would this cause an open circuit and make the battery fry since it controls the automatic headlight function? I left the battery unhooked while I wait impatiently for my switch and my new front brake rotors and pads. Hoping if I put the mirror back up before I replace the mfs, the new mfs will not fry....
Took my tool kit out and started tearing down the dash. I won't go into details bc there are dozens of posts here re: this exact issue. Before I got very far I had to check all fuses, as some dim wit had wired two sets of aftermarket fog lights straight to the main headlights. I demanded the previous owner fully remove them prior to purchase.
My tip for digging into this project is to have some pliers available in case your tilt wheel stem has never been removed. There's a nice little flat groove on it allowing it to be unscrewed. I greased it before putting it back in, so that it would be easier to turn next time.
So, I got the MFS out and decided to take it apart and check it out. There was a ton of corrosion, so I took some very fine grit sandpaper to the contacts. I discovered a little removable plastic card with two contacts on it, one of them was obviously fried. I cleaned it, added some dielectric grease, and put it back inside the switch.
I put the switch back together, but I pushed that little card in too far, I'll explain here in a minute. Put the switch back on the column, replaced the column shrouds and tilt wheel stem and metal guard under the steering wheel. I put the keys in, turned it to on position, then hooked the battery back up. Presto! Lights!!!!!
Then the battery started smoking. Ugh.
Turned it off and unhook battery quickly. Assuming the lights were drawing too much voltage without the engine running, hooked battery back up without key in. Started Casper up, still lights. As soon as MFS was pulled to check brights, there was a crunch. .. where I had placed the card too far into the switch with the lever in the wrong position. Duh.
Lights went out, brights began flickering with jiggle of stem. Looked up a new (not used, brand spanking new) mfs on eBay --- $25!!!!! Ordered immediately.
My question --- I purchased the sploder with the rear view mirror unhooked and had fallen off the damaged windshield. Would this cause an open circuit and make the battery fry since it controls the automatic headlight function? I left the battery unhooked while I wait impatiently for my switch and my new front brake rotors and pads. Hoping if I put the mirror back up before I replace the mfs, the new mfs will not fry....
