CEL on, could it be.. | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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CEL on, could it be..

vdavis25

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May 4, 2008
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City, State
Standford, MT
Year, Model & Trim Level
2005 Explorer
From a bad fuel filter??

I have to say, I hate CELs and how much a place will charge just to read the code lol

We went to Oregon the other day, was about a 2 hour drive. Drive there, it ran fine. Drive home, it was..lurching sort of, at speeds of around 30-45..it smooths out when you go faster. Its now doing it at an idle as well. Driving me crazy and we arent driving it much atm.

IMO it IS behaving like maybe a clogged fuel filter, and soon as we get the darn special tool, we're going to replace it, but my CEL came on, on the drive home. Im not sure if a fuel filter can trigger that..

Any other ideas? Im at a loss and I have NO money to take it in for the code reading and no idea on how to do that myself.

Couple months ago, it had the O2 sensor code, but after reading about them on here, I think Ill just not worry about spending $150 on darn O2 sensors. My hubby worked for a company with a computer that told me it was saying it was running lean on both sides and then cleared it. So then I wonder if its THAT coming back, or just something else altogether.

Its a 2000 explorer, with the 4.0L V6 I believe...
 



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You can take it in to Autozone and they will scan the codes free of charge-
Or
O'rielly will let you borrow a scanner if you pay a refundable deposit.

In either event-just get the codes, don't let them sell you any parts until you post the codes here and we help you troubleshoot it.
Be sure to take a pancil and paper so you can write them down exactly as displayed.
 






I never knew that about Autozone! Thanks, I will go do that soon as my daughter gets home from school and let you know.
 






yes, a clogged fuel filter CAN trigger that...and ESP those codes. That the problem I had...but in addition, I had weak spark plugs and wires....which could also cause that

good luck with the fuel filter tool. I gave up after many attempts and a bent tool....went and had it changed somewhere

let us know what happens
 






lean on both banks is probably a fuel delivery problem like a weak fuel pressure regulator, or a vacuum leak. If that's what the codes are...
 






So, the guy at Autozone said it said its missing on cylinder #4..and said spark plug *we just changed them all out 3 months ago* the spark plug wire or the injector...told me there wasnt a "code" but I think he lied lol

The O2 sensor code was around Oct. of last year I think and its never came back on. I was told it would more then likely, but hasnt yet. so I dont know!

I do know Im glad I found you guys :D
 






O2 sensors are usually caused by something else....dont let people sell you o2 sensors
 






I read the whole O2 sensor thing on here..we were going to replace them soon, until we found out they are like $75 each and that thing on here says its probably NOT the O2 sensor but something else altogether...

Soon as its cooled off, hubby is going to pull the #4 plug and look it over..

If it IS the injector..how bad is it going to be on my car, to drive it for the next 2 weeks, until I have the money to replace that? We are on a SUPER tight budget at this time and I have a car payment and rent due in the next two weeks..:banghead:

And is it possible the injector isnt bad, but maybe plugged?? How hard are these to get to? The spark plugs are a PITA to change out..Im not looking forward to any of this LOL
 






It could be a bad spark plug-or a bad wire causing the issue. That is where I would start. It never hurts to have new wires or plugs-and these are the most likely cause for the misfire, not to mention the least expensive.

You may have an internal issue like coolant spraying onto a plug causing it to foul or crack-it has been discussed before.
Or it could just be a bad spark plug, maybe a bad type finally showing why they aren't for use in our trucks. Which type of plug did you use 3 months ago?


IMHO

Autolite platinums are the best bet for a combination of long life and performance.
Copper cores will perform better , and have better resistance to fouling out-but last half as long comapred to a properly firing platinum plug.
Double platinum are not worth the effort.
 






I just pulled the plug and they ARE the autolite platinums. We didnt change out the wires the last time around, just the plugs.

Hubby says the plug looks ok. Im going to go double check the gap on it.

Do you think running some cleaner through it, would be a good idea? We'll see how much new wires are and get a set soon as we get our next for us check...and I guess go from there?
 






And, if someone can show me something about changing injectors that would be great. Im trying to search and coming up with over 1000 things, and none are showing me HOW to do it..We have a manual and its not really showing how either? Just in case...

Hubby said there is something in the book about listening to the injectors..anyone do this? And, how do I tell WHICH motor I have? Its a 2000 with a 4.0..but I dont know if its a pushrod or sohc or? Just says: 4.0 EFI on the top of the motor...
 












yeah replace the wires, Carbon core wires can look good but have a complete disconnect inside. Go with good wires don't buy the cheapest ones, as the ends tend to pull off the cheap wires when they are removed from the plugs.


Get a tube of dielectric tuneup grease and squirt a good amount into each end of the wire before you install it on the plug and the coil pack.

Also you will want to test your coil pack for that cylinder just to make sure it is still good, I'm betting on the wire though.

If you suspect injectors, I would run a few rounds of a quality injector cleaner and see if that helps. You can also test the injector with an OHM meter to see if the internal winding is shorted or broken as well. Pickup a shop manual for your truck and it will give you all the procedures and readings for the test.

If it says EFI then it is a pushrod 4.0, great motor if maintained properly it will last for a loooonnnggg time.
 






saw a news report that said all fuel injector cleaning services are bogus....a waste of teh $125 + bucks

i didnt mention the $5 additives though
 






Thanks guys. We're going to be getting some wires ASAP and I have a bottle of cleaner to run through it, soon as I can get some more gas. Not sure running it through with only 1/4 of a tank is a good idea...

I hope it is wires. I dont think changing the injector is going to be fun...heck it doesnt look like re routing the wires will be fun!
 






You have to take off the upper intake manifold to get at the injectors .... which means a "lot of stuff" has to be disconnected / removed. Probably do the stuff that was suggested first and cross your fingers.
 






saw a news report that said all fuel injector cleaning services are bogus....a waste of teh $125 + bucks

i didnt mention the $5 additives though

Not all of them are, the local part places here will recondition your injectors with a cleaning, new baskets, new orings etc... for a resonable price. However you will need to remove them from the vehicle.

Some shops may take you for a ride though by not actually performing the service and charging for it.
 






Woah, woah, wooooah.... Back the truck up here.... The Check Engine Light came on. Right there, you should have stopped at the nearest AutoZone and had them pull the code(s). Ask them for the actual NUMBER, not what's wrong with it. From that stored DTC, we can pretty accurately pinpoint the problem. Them telling you you have a bad fuel injector is bunk... What was the CODE it stored? mis-fire, cylinder 4?

All this talk of injectors and fuel filters and plugs and wires is purely speculation without knowing what, exactly, the problem is that the ECU logged.

So, lets start from the beginning... The CEL came on, you took it to AutoZone, and they scanned the code. What code(s) did they find?

What's the vehicle's current status? Did they clear the DTCs before you left?
 






The guy said it said: mis fire, on cylinder 4. When I asked what the code was, THATS what I was told. He said he thought it would be one of those 3 things. I was hoping before I went, it was the fuel filter.

And no, they didnt clear it. I can try seeing if someone else can do it later on. We got the tool to change out the fuel filter so are doing that today, as its a cheap part and probably needs changed anyhow.

And until it was mentioned here, I had no clue autozone would do that. I was always told a mechanic or dealer had to.
 



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mis on cyinder 4 is not caused by the fuel filter, it is caused by
1) bad spark plug
2) bad wire
3) bad/clogged injector
4) more serious things like head gasket problems, valves, etc.. (this it unlikely)
 






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