Change PS pump or not? And Mercon V or not?

[C420sailor]

Often it’s the bracket that holds the handle that bends…not so much the cable stretching. Worth a check

 

[joney]

Often it’s the bracket that holds the handle that bends…not so much the cable stretching. Worth a check

Confirmed that the cable did stretch, can only release hood latch pulling on cable with pliers. Ordered a replacement cable from Ebay 40% less than the local auto parts places who didn't have it in stock. Cable is fraying. Thank you for your helpful suggestions!

 

[joney]

@joney A/C wise, on my Limited, those symptoms were the blend door actuator. Any position, any speed, everything worked except the cold air. I had the advantage of getting to hear the thunks in the dash before mine quit altogether. I bet if you tear into it, you'll find some thing like this.

View attachment 442310

If yours has the EATC, this part might be a touch more expensive and difficult to obtain. Otherwise, they can be had for cheap. I'd check this out before you pay somebody else to have a look at refrigerant, etc.

Hood latch, no sweat. Simply go under the dash, unscrew the hood release handle, remove the cable, and pull it with pliers or some such. Replace the cable if you want to.

Interesting, thanks! But one question. My 98 has a dial goes from hot to cold, to adjust the heat level. Do these ever tell the blend door to activate? Because it does function when adjusting how hot to make the heat. I've never heard any thunks in the dash, but the AC never has worked either since I've owned it. EATC, don't know if I have it. How would I check that? I do appreciate the shared knowledge.

 

[410Fortune]

Eatc is electronic auto temp controller
No dials for temp, fan and dash position controls, instead it would be a screen w buttons

 

[C420sailor]

That red/blue knob basically controls the blend door actuator.

With AC, start with the basics. Pop the hood, turn knob to full cold and MAX AC. Does the AC compressor click on and start spinning? Does it stay on for more than a few seconds, or does it constantly cycle on and off every 3ish seconds?

If it doesn’t kick on at all, or if the compressor short cycles, you gotta start there.

 

[nameskreen]

Mercon V is recommended for P.S. pumps. I've run it for years in my Explorer, Mountaineer, and F150. If you're hesitant to use it, I'd recommend Lucas power steering fluid. I've also used it with no problems

 

[Mbrooks420]

Mercon V wasn’t the recommended fluid from Ford, although I’ve used it with no issues.

 

[C420sailor]

https://latemodel.cachefly.net/downloads/tsb05-14/tsb07-01-07.pdf

TSB 07-1-7

 

[410Fortune]

Thanks for posting that tsb!!

 

[Mbrooks420]

They really should amend their online documentation. It’s soooo hard to edit a pdf, after all.

 

[DintDobbs]

@joney As @410Fortune and @C420sailor stated, the EATC is the automatic tenperature control. If yours has the red/blue dial, then yours doesn't have EATC, and that dial is what controls the blend door. If the heat gets hotter but the cold doesn't get colder, then your blend door works fine and you probably just need a recharge. Might want to have the system checked for leaks first though, just in case... don't want to have to pay for two recharges.

 

[joney]

@joney As @410Fortune and @C420sailor stated, the EATC is the automatic tenperature control. If yours has the red/blue dial, then yours doesn't have EATC, and that dial is what controls the blend door. If the heat gets hotter but the cold doesn't get colder, then your blend door works fine and you probably just need a recharge. Might want to have the system checked for leaks first though, just in case... don't want to have to pay for two recharges.

Do not use Mercon v in power steering
Mercon iii or power steering fluid but never Mercon v

Changing the power steering pump requires a simple pulley puller the tool is about $$40 or you can rent one

Update: Got the hood release cable, now to put it on. Am now thinking about replacing the bent pulley myself - If I can do it in a couple of days or so (Takes me forever, unskilled labor here!) Had talked to the shop and they figure it's the idler or tensioner pulley. Is this a realistic project? And would you want only OEM parts or is there a good aftermarket idler pulley kit you would use? Is it something you need the strength of Popeye to crank on? Debating whether to approach it from the top or underneath also. What's your experience? If it's relevant, it's on the SOHC 4.0 with the AC (not that it works, aargh). Is it worth it or would I be better off letting the shop do it? Sorry for the indecision, LOL

 

[410Fortune]

It is very easy
Literally 2 bolts
Get a good quality tensioner / pulley assembly maybe cat quest or Napa

Basically you use a 3/8” ratchet to remove the tension on the belt (some models it’s a 15mm socket)
You loosen the belt off the idler pulley and let the belt rest there
After that you unbolt the tensioner and pulley assembly with one or two 13mm bolts and no they are not that tight

Here is a tensioner and pulley assembly

2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Belt Tensioner | Shop Now at RockAuto

Belt Drive Parts and More for Your 2000 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[joney]

It is very easy
Literally 2 bolts
Get a good quality tensioner / pulley assembly maybe cat quest or Napa

Basically you use a 3/8” ratchet to remove the tension on the belt (some models it’s a 15mm socket)
You loosen the belt off the idler pulley and let the belt rest there
After that you unbolt the tensioner and pulley assembly with two 13mm bolts and no they are not that tight

Here is a tensioner and pulley assembly

Aha! Thanks! From the man who builds trucks! Didn't see the tensioner/pulley assembly you mentioned. Pulleys seem widely available, still looking for the tensioner part. Is there a go-to brand you'd use? Assuming I shouldn't keep the tensioner assembly already on the truck, no idea if it's original stock part or not. Standard right hand thread to the pulley and bolts?

 

[Flashflood]

In my sohc I changed the fluid it was making a hell of racket before. After changing the fluid smooth and quiet.

 

[Josh P]

Is it something you need the strength of Popeye to crank on?

I'm strong cause I smokes me spinach.
I'd replace the tensioner and idler.

 

[joney]

I'm strong cause I smokes me spinach.
I'd replace the tensioner and idler.

I'll plan on it! And a nice spinach quiche! Haven't tried lighting it, LOL.

 

[410Fortune]

I would for sure replace the tensioner and pulley the tensioners wear out and can cause that sideways condition you describe

Trusted brands motorcraft, gates, carquest

Standard rotation on the bolts

 

[joney]

It is very easy
Literally 2 bolts
Get a good quality tensioner / pulley assembly maybe cat quest or Napa

Basically you use a 3/8” ratchet to remove the tension on the belt (some models it’s a 15mm socket)
You loosen the belt off the idler pulley and let the belt rest there
After that you unbolt the tensioner and pulley assembly with one or two 13mm bolts and no they are not that tight

Here is a tensioner and pulley assembly

2000 FORD EXPLORER 4.0L V6 SOHC Belt Tensioner | Shop Now at RockAuto

Belt Drive Parts and More for Your 2000 FORD EXPLORER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

I went ahead and ordered Gates idler pulley and tensioner. Should be here next week. And a video of someone doing that on a '99! Wouldn't have had the confidence to try it without all the kind advice here!

 

[Fordtruckfan89]

If I remember right the xl-12 t case fluid ford specifies now is essentially expensive relabeled mercon 3. I never understood what additive made the transfer cases go kaboom.