Change Wires when Changing Plugs? Broke Wires Again.

[Blown]

I got Lifetime wires, good heats shields etc. I installed them correctly with dialectic grease and routed out around header then back in. And all to no avail! These wires break when you pull them to change plugz. I was gentle, but both times I have changed plugs I lost a couple of wires. Free lifetime, but, is there a better quality wire that does not break once used? Is this something that seems to happen with all wires and headers on these?

 

[Jeff213]

I lose about half my wires whenever I pull the plugs as well. The heat kind of glues the plastic in the boot to the plugs, making it really difficult to pull them.

 

[The Dumb Ox]

This happens to me a lot. i have a free lifetime aswell. This spring, I will be trying something different. I’ve been using cheap auto zone ones for a while now, I think I will step it up to motor craft and see if I have any better outcomes. I will also be attempting to install some type of heat deflecting shield/sock around the base of the boots.

do you return the whole set for the warranty or just the plugs you guys broke?

 

[Blown]

These are premium wires, have good heat shields, and were installed correctly. I got two new sets after describing the miss I had after a rebuild and then changing plugs. I have a complete extra set now and extra metal boots and shields.

 

[J_C]

Platinum or better plugs last so long, that I always change wires with plugs.

Motorcraft brand is going to be the most recommended. Think I used ACDelco Pro the last time I did my '98 SOHC.

 

[DintDobbs]

Motorcraft or NGK. Running NGK plugs and wires on my '03 Dodge woke it back up, so I'd trust them if you can't get Motorcraft.

 

[410Fortune]

Cheap wires come apart when you pull on them
Expensive wires come apart when you pull on them too, just not as easily

There is a simple plastic tool for this, spark plug wire boot puller = no more broken wires

Motorcraft or Autolite plugs in my engines only (oem) ford spent millions designing the correct plug for your engine other brands are gimmicks

 

[Blown]

Yah, I normally just grab a wire and yank hard, not!
I use a tool, grip the boot gently, always try to rotate the tool a bit to loosen the boot first, and apply a gentle in-line pull. I think these wires take heat and then simply bending them can cause a problem. The carbon core breaks down and cracks I'll quit whining, I got one tool that works but the angles are still tough, and the boots get baked-on. I suppose I could upgrade to a set of these to get the right angle to better grab them:

I can't justify the expense of those and the lifetime plug wire guarantee works. Now I have saved a full set of wires and have them ready when I need them. I wouldn't attempt a plug change without a plug wire removal tool and a new set of wires available or at least a couple of long extras to get you by till you can get a full set. I think that's a good idea. Maybe this helps someone else.

I was lucky to get replacements in this small town and should have checked before I started. I will be tuning again soon and I will pull a couple of the plugs, ones that are easier to get too, to double check my tune. We know there are reasons, perhaps upgrades which require messing with plugs before required maintenance intervals. I have lost plug wires three times now and have planned for it in the future.

 

[C420sailor]

I just replace wires when I do my plugs every 100k

 

[DintDobbs]

@C420sailor Agreed, they're cheap enough (less than $150) and every 100k, you're robbing yourself of the car's best performance by not doing them together.

 

[FletcherHubbards]

The heat kind of glues the plastic in the boot to the plugs, making it really difficult to pull them.

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[J_C]

^ Be sure to add some silicone dielectric grease to the boots when reinstalling. It helps if they haven't been on too many years.

 

[Blown]

Does anyone read more than a post or two back?

Thx for your clarification, I of course used more than spit, and I said I installed them correctly.

That grease goes away pretty quick next to header heat. Routing of the wires and shielding is more important if you have headers. Performance shtif with = more heat read crud before throwijgn up useless qlenmkdbjnksA.

 

[J_C]

^ IMO, modern carbon core wires are just inherently brittle as they age. Alternatives are go back to copper or stainless wire core but with the low resistance, it may mess with radio reception or certain sensors. IMO just easier to have a spare set of wires ready ahead of time. Lifetime warranty wires seem nice, but I always like to have all the pieces I need to complete a repair, already in front of me when I start. I do make an exception for my lifetime warranty autozone brake pads.

 

[donalds]

Luckily the wires are really easy to fix when you pull them apart imo