Changing brake pads help

[JasonF]

So my front pads are 80% gone, I'd like to replace them myself. The one thing I am not sure about is whether I unbolt the caliper from its mount (slide bolts) or take off the whole mount from the steering knuckle. I think it would be a good idea to grease the slide bolts with the silicone lube while I am in there. I asked for the front brake pad kit at the parts window but all they gave me was a box of 4 pads. My buddy with a Jeep got a whole kit with pads, lube, bolts, etc. Are there any other parts that I need to replace when I change the pads?

Thanks

Jason

 

[sncwfo99]

just take the calipers off, pull the old pads out of the calipers, compress the piston, put the new pads in, place back on the mount, grease the pins and reinstall. pretty simple procedure.

 

[JDraper]

As above, just pull the calipers. To protect the pistons, I ususally leave the old rear pad in when I compress the piston. Make absolutely sure you get no grease/oil/dirt on the new pads. I'd suggest buying a can of Brakleen to clean the pads and rotors off when you do the install.

 

[JasonF]

I'm still vague on which pair of bolts you are taking off to remove the caliper?

 

[JDraper]

The slide bolts. If I remember correctly, they require an M-10 socket to remove.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Yes, it is the slide bolts, and according to my Haynes Manual, there is no available replacement grease for the slides. I've thought this is kind of odd, I can't see how that could be... anyone know where to get the slide bolt grease?

 

[GreenSeats]

If youre not replacing the rotors, all you need to do is take off the slide bolts, you can re lube them with "sil-glyde" available at NAPA. dont worry about the other hardware... while youre at NAPA, pick up a small tube of Moly-lube and apply it to the metal contact points between the pads and the parts that they slide on, and on the back of the pad where it contacts the piston, as well as the front of the pad where it contaxcts the caliper.

 

[JasonF]

Thanks for the help everyone. I replaced the pads this morning and it was far easier than I expected. I checked my sliders and they felt good so I didn't open them up to regrease. The job is much easier if you have a friend to hold the caliper while you use a c-clamp to compress the pistons back in. This is definitely an easy do it yourself job.

Jason

 

[EBInterceptor]

Lucky, I want to replace my pads.

 

[X~FACTOR]

Originally posted by JDraper
The slide bolts. If I remember correctly, they require an M-10 socket to remove.

Is it just me or can you actually unbolt half the truck using JUST the 10mm socket?

 

[JDraper]

Originally posted by X~FACTOR
Is it just me or can you actually unbolt half the truck using JUST the 10mm socket?

You can do about 90% of the truck with 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm and 18mm sockets.

 

[Cali' Explorer]

Hehe, JD, you beat me to it, I was going to say you can do 99% of all newer cars with those ones you listed.

 

[cgmiller83]

I though this was an American SUV. So why all the metric?

 

[JDraper]

Almost all vehicles are now assembled with metric hardware no matter where they are assembled. The changeover started in the early 80's and is probably complete now.

 

[Blee1099]

Originally posted by cgmiller83
I though this was an American SUV. So why all the metric?

Its to piss off DIY mechanics like ourselves.

 

[JDraper]

That's also why I have a complete set of metric and SAE tools.