Changing Front Pads and rotors | Ford Explorer Forums

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Changing Front Pads and rotors

964x4.0

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Joined
July 7, 2003
Messages
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City, State
Bowling Green, KY
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 XLT
I've got some serious brake issues and need to change the front pads and probably rotors (110,000 miles). I might be able to just get the rotors turned but I was wondering how much all of this would cost for parts. (Don't want cheapies, but it doesn't have to be top of the line either).

Also, does anyone have any information or instructions on how do to this. I've done quite a bit of work on cars but brakes is something that I haven't messed with so any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
 



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Well, I decided that if there are problems with the fronts that I might as well go ahead with the rears too.

I checked prices for replacement rotors and pads front and back and at AutoZone it's gonna be ~170 bucks for everything I need to do it myself.

I checked with Midas and they want 326 bucks just to resurface the rotors and change the pads.

Is it really that hard to do? I've searched for topics on this and seen that the pads are not a problem, I'm just wondering about the rotors and how hard that will be.

Anybody?
 






Its not hard at all.

You may run into issues with:
re-packing wheel bearings
seating grease seals
getting the hub assembly, axle lock washer, and spindle nuts
getting the rear rotors off

Just because you have never done them before, and you may not have all the tools you need (aka spindle nut spanner wrench, BFG for rear rotors).

A book or a friend is the best guide.
Also this has been covered in detail on this board over and over, I suggest search search search till you find advice/answers
 






if hes got the 96, theres not going to be an issue when it comes to repacking the bearings- all you have to do is remove the caliper and if the rotor doesnt come off, just give it a few whacks with a BFH (big f*cking hammer) and pull.
 






So I just unscrew the two bolts holding the caliper, change out the pads, by whatever means possible get the rotors off, put the new ones on and reassemble? That sounds easy enough. What about this screw you need to loosen to keep from forcing bad fluid back up into the system, is this still an issue?

I've read tons of posts before posting this and the reason I keep asking is because I'm getting mixed answers between 1st and 2nd gens.

Thanks for the replies.
 






Josh

First off do you have a repair manual for your truck?

Get the Hayden or Chiltons book for your Explorer

You will need it in the future anyways, so you mine as well pony for it now.

Many times the book is all you need
 






i never do it when i change the pads, but if you want to, go for it, youre not going to hurt anything. ive done it a few times on mine and in the HS auto shop i worked in(many times), we never opened the bleeder screw unless there was air in the system.

the first time i did it, my front pads and rotors took about 45 mins (i had to do it a couplea months later due to craoppy pads, but thats another story), now i can do it in 20
 






I REALLY appreciate the responses guys. I'm going to buy the stuff now, I'll let you know how it goes.
 






Okay, I've been beating on the passenger side rotor for about 20 minutes now and nothing. Any tips on getting this thing off. I'm off to find a bigger hammer, I'll check back in a bit.
 






got it now i'm trying to get the pads "clipped in"
 






did you use disk brake quiet and lube the slide pins?
 






I don't have it back together yet so I guess It's good that I read this. What are you referring to with the slide pins, the compressable part outside of the bracket with the rubber cover? Disk brake quiet?

I discovered that I don't have a C-clamp large enough to compress the pistons back down. I'm trying to find one from the neighbors.
 






Oh, and another thing, this probably sounds dumb but this is my first stab at brakes. Once the pistons are compressed, they stay there or is there something else I need to hold them while I fit it over the pads?

Everything else went well, I've just got to get the clamp.
 






Final question. Got everything together and noticed the shims in the brake pad box that I didn't use. They said they were only for applications where they were O.E.M. Does my X require these shims?

As far as the install, everything went fairly smooth. The passenger side only took about 45 minutes after I got the tire off. One thing I was concerned about though is when I was compressing the caliper pistons on the driver side, about 1/2 way down, brake fluid started leaking from the reservoir, it wasn't a large amount but is this normal?

Again, I apologize for all of the questions but I haven't found answers to any of these through searching.
 






yes it is normal
 






Well, the brakes are working great. Someone pulled out in front of my wife yesterday and she had to slam them on. No problems, no squeaks and nice smooth, even stopping.

Thanks for the tips and pointers.
 






don't rule out the "cheapies". Rotors from Brazil are $25 a piece. My auto mechanic (for my time consuming Jobs) switched a few years ago. These last just as long as the expensive ones - Thanks to NAFTA
 






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