Cheapest way to fix auto-hubs on '92 | Ford Explorer Forums

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Cheapest way to fix auto-hubs on '92

CptMorgan

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August 19, 2003
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City, State
Vancouver, B.C.
Year, Model & Trim Level
'92 EB
Hi all,

One of my auto hubs failed. Opened it up and found little pieces of plastic inside. The plastic toothed sleeve is not so toothed anymore. What's the cheapest way to get my 4WD working again? Can I just replace the plastic part, or is there more to it? I realize this is a common problem, but I can seem to find a solution.

Thanks,
 



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Someone one here reportedly sells a rebuild kit for the auto hubs. Can't remember who or how much, but he's here somewhere.
One replacement auto hub from Ford is going to cost ~2x the cost of manual hubs plus the "conversion kit" (spindle nuts and such).
If having auto hubs is important, see if you can find out about that repair kit. The best "fix" for auto hubs is to convert to manual hubs (they are stronger and more reliable and cheaper).
 






Replace them with manual hubs..... When one auto goes, the second won't be far behind!
 






PM Kris Guilbeaux, hes the one who sells the rebuilt hubs.
 












If I was to go with manual hubs, where's the cheapest place to get them? Cheapest manufacturer?

I've got an OEM listing for an auto hub "Repair Kit, F3TZ1K106A". You guys know anything about it? Shop price is only $30.

Thanks for the help.
 






http://www.rubicon4x4.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/75_238_1835_1838/products_offroad/7024

This place was the cheapest for the Hubs. You need different Spindle nuts when you switch over to these Hubs. They constantly sell them on E-bay (search 'dana 40')
Rubicon sells the Spindle Nut Kit too but they are a bit steep in price.

These MileMarker Hubs are less expensive then WARN

However this place sells the whole shabang for very close to the Milemarker price with the Spindle nuts.
www.4x4cyberstore.com/website/warn_hub_ford.html
 












I thought it was Dana 35...
 






It is a dana 35 but the spindle nuts are the same as a dana 44.
Most parts stores carry the lock ring washer, inner and outer spindle nuts. I know napa and carquest do.
You will also need the spanner wrench or "hub tool" to do the job.
A magnet and/or a pick is good to have to remove the metal retainer on the auto hubs for disassembly.

You can do a search, this has been covered about 4000 times.

Kris also can sell you rebuilt and improved aut hubs :)
I too suggest the manuals, especially if you ever plan to go wheeling.

Also FYI the warn manual hubs are the same as the OEM manual hubs, and sometimes you can find those at the junk yard, complete with spindle nuts :)
 












Doesn't switching to maunal hubs defeat the purpose of switching to 4X4 on the fly? Now you have to stop & get out to lock them before putting into 4X4?

Also I had these manual hubs on my Bronco II I had. I had alot of problems with the spindle nuts coming loose. Almost crashed once cause it was so loose the whole wheel was hanging on by a thread. Is the design of the X's the same? You have a outer & inner & they are held on by the TQ you applie to them?
 






Yup, however if the inner and outer nut and lock ring washer, along with the splined axle retainer and C clip are installed the wheel cannot fall off.
Also if they are torqued properly they will never come that loose.

It is the same design, yes you have to get out and lock them, or you can drive around with them locked. When I lived in CO I would leave them locked for weeks at a time during the snowy season.

The auto hubs are expensive to replace, they fail, and the manuals are a much better choice IMO.
 






Thanks Guys.

I think I'm going to hit the wreckers this weekend and see if I get lucky. I'm such a cheap skate when it comes to my exploder.
 






i need to get some Manuals myself, i think i'll vist the local junk yard as well
 






The Nut and Washer is Identical to that on my '85 Full size Chevy pickup. The First Nut has a Pin sticking out of it. you Snug that one up against the Bearing then the Washer has many holes in it. The washer also has Key in the middle that lines up with a notch on the Spindle. You slide the washer down the Notch, line a hole on the Washer with the Pin on the nut. That should keep everything from spinning loose. Then you run the second nut down and tighten that baby nice and tight.

As far as shift on the fly...If there's snow on the pavement, Lock in the hubs before you leave the driveway, then when you need 4WD, push the button to engage the Transfer case.
 






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