Check Engine Light

[NWwoman]

I have a 2000 Explorer Limited 125,000 miles that has been maintained well and is (has been?) in excellent mechanical and interior/exterior condition. Looks new!

Last Thursday, I went to the shop and had timing belt (correction: serpentine belt) changed. It had not broken; I was simply being pro-active.

Friday morning, I noticed a ticking sound from under the hood in the area of that belt. It was 38 degrees outside. As someone without mechanical experience and a (female) widow living alone out in the middle of nowhere, I did the sane thing -- I discounted it, attributing it to the cold.

I drove to the nearest gas station to fill her up. The station is 35 miles away. She drove perfectly up and down a 7 percent grade as well as over the gravel roads.

Saturday morning was the start of our one week of deer hunting/rifle. So I was up very early and -- after accidentally spraying my camo coat with doe estrus (can you believe?) -- I then see a check engine light come on.

Grr. If I didn't have bad luck, I'd have no luck at all!

So here's the question part, which you deserve after reading all of this jabber.

Is it possible that this solidly on check engine light is related to the replacement in the belt that they did on Thursday?

I drove with the check engine light on. Hunting must go on. lol. It drove fine, even through some very rough terrain, as well as on the highway.

I have to drive alone some 25 miles north to get to the service shop. Hoping to have a tiny clue as to what might be ailing it before I hit the road and then deal with the shop.

Thanks guys. Appreciate any help.

 

[koda2000]

the check engine light comes on when the vehicle's computer sees that one of the many emissions sensors reports something out of its normal range. there's no way to tell which sensor it is w/out having a OBDII scanner (it may be something as simple as a loose gas cap, or it may be a bad sensor, or an engine problem). most auto parts stores will check this for free, or you can take it back to your mechanic. it's unlikely that the light is related to the timing chain repair itself, but it's possible that a sensor got unplugged (or damaged) during the repair. the ticking noise probably has something to do with it. i'd take it back to your mechanic.

 

[NWwoman]

thank you! thank you! this reply was very helpful!

 

[pbnj22]

Yeah any auto part store or mechanic should for free plug in a little handheld computer thing to your OBD2 port (drivers side under steering wheel) and it will show a code. If you let us know the code we should be able to further assist you as to if it is related to the belt or something else.

 

[Dave 1955]

Would you marry me!

 

[koda2000]

Would you marry me!

who are you proposing to?

 

[NWwoman]

Yeah any auto part store or mechanic should for free plug in a little handheld computer thing to your OBD2 port (drivers side under steering wheel) and it will show a code. If you let us know the code we should be able to further assist you as to if it is related to the belt or something else.

The problem always for me is where I live -- which I love but which has some bumps to it. Auto part store is to the south -- some 30 miles. Auto repair is to the north, some 25 miles. That's life in the rural Northwest. But I think that because of the kindness of you gentlemen, I will travel south tomorrow as I'm sure it is safe to drive the SUV. I'll get the code checked there and then, if needed let you know. I did fuss with the fuel cap -- hoping. Oh well.

You guys are great! I'm baking cookies tomorrow. Hmmm. Want some?

 

[NWwoman]

Would you marry me!

Oh you are funny. You mean, me, the huntress, right? The huntress with the Explorer and the F150 and a beautiful camo coat covered with doe estrus and a near new Remington 700 30.06.

No! I will not marry you!! lol. I just want my car fixed. <rofl>

So funny...

 

[koda2000]

FYI: you might want to consider purchasing an inexpensive ODBII scanner (can be had for around $60, maybe less for a used one on ebay). the inexpensive ones don't have all the fancy options, and wont do things like transmission or abs codes, but they're good enough for normal check engine light diagnostics. considering how far away you are from everything, might not be a bad investment.

 

[1992fordgreen]

Oh you are funny. You mean, me, the huntress, right? The huntress with the Explorer and the F150 and a beautiful camo coat covered with doe estrus and a near new Remington 700 30.06.

No! I will not marry you!! lol. I just want my car fixed. <rofl>

So funny...

LOL! Hilarious!

Yea, the CEL is nothing to worry about IMAO if there is nothing major wrong with the Explorer. Like the other guys said, (not including Dave LOL!!) either you can get an OBDII code reader, or have the auto parts place do it for you. My guess, it's an o2 sensor. We'll see, I guess.

Hey, count your blessings. The CEL on my Explorer AND Lexus doesn't even work! I'm just too lazy...

 

[koda2000]

LOL! Hilarious!

Yea, the CEL is nothing to worry about IMAO if there is nothing major wrong with the Explorer. Like the other guys said, (not including Dave LOL!!) either you can get an OBDII code reader, or have the auto parts place do it for you. My guess, it's an o2 sensor. We'll see, I guess.

Hey, count your blessings. The CEL on my Explorer AND Lexus doesn't even work! I'm just too lazy...

based on what? that's the point of using a scanner. it could be any one of about a dozen sensors. it could be a bad sensor, a bad electrical connection or an engine problem. guessing is not helpful.

 

[1992fordgreen]

based on what? that's the point of using a scanner. it could be any one of about a dozen sensors. it could be a bad sensor, a bad electrical connection or an engine problem. guessing is not helpful.

Dude, I just made a GUESS. Not a DIAGNOSIS! And I said that was MY guess, in other words, I personally think that the CEL might have been illuminated by a bad o2 sensor. You gotta problem wit dat?

Whats YOR guess?

 

[Turdle]

I would not ignore the CEL. As others have said, have the codes read, do not buy any suggested parts until you post the codes back in here for discussion.

They will be displayed as a letter and 4 digits. example: P0140

Be sure to write all the codes down, ignore the code descriptions.


By the way--how much were you charged to change the "timing belt"

 

[bill06447]

Dude, I just made a GUESS. Not a DIAGNOSIS! And I said that was MY guess, in other words, I personally think that the CEL might have been illuminated by a bad o2 sensor. You gotta problem wit dat?

Whats YOR guess?

I'll guess the left rear tire is low on air.

Bill

 

[jremington59]

I would not ignore the CEL. As others have said, have the codes read, do not buy any suggested parts until you post the codes back in here for discussion.

They will be displayed as a letter and 4 digits. example: P0140

Be sure to write all the codes down, ignore the code descriptions.


By the way--how much were you charged to change the "timing belt"

I was wondering the same thing, lol.....

 

[Dave 1955]

Oh you are funny. You mean, me, the huntress, right? The huntress with the Explorer and the F150 and a beautiful camo coat covered with doe estrus and a near new Remington 700 30.06.

No! I will not marry you!! lol. I just want my car fixed. <rofl>

So funny...

but but ,,I have some guns and a hot 5.0 explorer with no check engine light that I would let you drive!

I'll show you mine if you show me yours!

I know..a cheap excuse to post my baby! lol

oh and I have two 4wd 4 wheelers!
We could really drag some deer!

 

[koda2000]

but but ,,I have some guns and a hot 5.0 explorer with no check engine light that I would let you drive!

I'll show you mine if you show me yours!

I know..a cheap excuse to post my baby! lol

oh and I have two 4wd 4 wheelers!
We could really drag some deer!

nice wheels!

 

[Dave 1955]

nice wheels!

Thanks!
Paid 1200 for them with the rims from tire rack..I really like them!
If your talking about the car I paid too much maybe for it last march. 3500 with 97k on it.
But it's real nice ..minor rust but the interior was like new..but had crap tires.
I did the brake pads/rotors and shocks also.
Had new exhaust though.

 

[koda2000]

Thanks!
Paid 1200 for them with the rims from tire rack..I really like them!
If your talking about the car I paid too much maybe for it last march. 3500 with 97k on it.
But it's real nice ..minor rust but the interior was like new..but had crap tires.
I did the brake pads/rotors and shocks also.
Had new exhaust though.

i was referring to the actual wheels. $3500 with only 97k doesn't seem like too much as-of last winter. i gave $2100 for a v8/awd '00 Mountaineer w/150k (w/crappy tires, bend wheels and minor rust) last Feb and that was a pretty good deal, but risky as the truck had bounced from dealer to dealer. with minor repairs (muffler, thermostat, front axle seals, one tie-rod end, the tires/wheels off my dead XLT, parking brake shoes, a missing fuse and lot of cleaning) it's turned out to be a good vehicle. now, don't even ask how much i paid for my '01 EB a year ago in july... way too much, but it was like new. my best buy was my other v8 '00 Mountaineer (the red one in my profile pic).

 

[Turdle]

Guys--we're getting off topic and into PM material.