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Check this before replacing brake light switch

quandary

Member
Joined
July 3, 2011
Messages
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City, State
Ontario
Year, Model & Trim Level
02 Explorer Eddie Bauer
I went to a few auto part shops to do a cheap blind replacement but they all had generic switches ($50) that required some minor rewiring. Before spending the $100 from the dealer, i openned it up to find no electronics, only a mechanical switch. This took all of 5 minutes and cost next to nothing.

There are many threads related to problems with shifting out of park and checking for brake lights. I won't repeat how to remove it since it is very simple and well documented. Check your fuses and bulbs first. Before replacing your brake light switch, check to see if you have corroded contacts.

Remove the switch and pop open the top (the grey cover). There are three pressure points that can be pryed with a flathead screwdriver.

Check the plunger mechanism to see if it works. Depress the plunger from the outside where the hole is located. (I used my flathead screwdriver.) You should see that the two copper pieces make contact with each other.

Clean the contact points. You should see 2 small squares at the ends. Take a q-tip and isopropyl alcohol ($2 at the drug store) and run it between the contacts.

Put it back together and plug in the harness without connecting to the brake. With the shifter in Park, turn on ignition. Manually press the plunger in and hold it. You should see the brake lights operating now. If so, reassemble and your problem is fixed.

(If the brake lights still don't work, shut off the engine, remove the switch, and check to see if there is a voltage differntial at the 2 pins (when your turn the ignition back on). You will have to work your way back to the fuses to trace why there is no voltage - maybe broken wire or you missed the fuse.)

Hope this helps...
 



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Just wanted to drop a thank you from out in the interwebs. My wife's Explorer brake lights started coming on and not shutting off the other night. Bought a replacement at my local FLAPs, but it required cutting in to the factory harness. A quick google search brought this thread up.

I managed to get it apart, cleaned it, and I also added some dielectric grease as I found it was staying on because the switch movement was getting hung up.

Switch works perfectly now!

Jody F. Kerr
http://www.theymightberacing.com
 






PS the brake light circuit is live with the ignition OFF.......
 






Another thanks!

Just wanted to drop a sincere thank you! I was at a loss for what to check when my name lights stopped working. I took out the switch and cleaned it up, but when I went to put it back in, the solid green wire (that had a tap on it) came out of the tap! I guess a broken wrote will make them not work as well.
 






After replacing the switch twice I found this post and found the switch itself was fine. It was actually a flaky connector that was causing the problem. I've taped it up and it seems to have done the trick.
 






Kudos, this works like a champ. The only down side is getting under the dash for someone with spatulate fingers and broad shoulders. Got it done though. Wife is happy. Thanks for the heads up.
 






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