Checked my CEL codes today...

[BrooklynBay]

I was hoping that it would become a sticky in that section. I was looking on this website for a list of EEC-IV codes with explainations, but I could only find links for OBDII codes.

 

[Brandons]

Perhaps it will, well hopefully, if not we can always look in your signature

 

[BrooklynBay]

They factor a few thing in before they make something a sticky, like the "star" ratings on the upper left hand corner of the thread, the # of times it is viewed in a 24 hour period over the week, and how popular, or useful it is to everybody.

 

[Brandons]

I see what your saying there, a little bit of time and maybe yours will be stickied.


I just used the test bulb on the red line to the transmission, nice and bright, right at the connector. I also found another chunk of wire insulation that has be damaged on the red wire. So far two problem spots. Might just leave them.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Maybe those problem areas are causing an intermittent problem? Did you try to wiggle the wire in those areas with the test light connected? The connection could be going on, and off as you drive.

 

[Brandons]

True, my best bet would be to get a friend over to wiggle the connections, then i can hold the light cables on, one problem was by the connector up on the front left fender, and the other about an inch from the connector on the transmission. Unless i suddenly become amazing at soldering i doubt ill be able to salvage it, since its hard enough to get to. So in preparation for the worse, and to track down the wiring, i took the wiring out of the parts explorer, so if worst comes to worst, i replace it.

 

[BrooklynBay]

I didn't know that you had another Explorer just for spare parts. What year is it? Is it similar to yours (automatic transmission)?

 

[Brandons]

Oooohhh yeah its an auto.. in fact.. the transmission is in the working explorer lol. Its a 91 eddie baur, no EGR on it so that kinda sucks. We bought it for $300 canadian just for the transmission, since the core on our last one was toast. The transmission worked fine for about 6 months.. was just rebuilt in feburary. So far ive gotten alot more then 300 out of that parts truck, 2 auto hubs, shift motor, transmission, rear leaf springs (combined with the original pack now), misc interior parts.

The eddie baurs timing chain skipped a tooth, so the engine is toast, or supposed to be toast. Potential build up? hehe


Also im going to try and put up some pics of the cut wires, and hopefully get a friend over for the wiggle test. Pretty much figure i may as well fix the problems with the wire anyways before anything else screws up.

 

[Brandons]

Alright went out and took some pics, tried to get good ones but im not exactly good at this lol.


So this here is at the connector on the inner fender drivers side, basically pointing at the coupling there, doesnt look healthy.

Next is the connector to the transmission, red wire, doesnt look healthy either but theres wire attached still.

This is the thick red wire cut by the vacume solenoid thing, not a good pic but its very hard to get one of that. The wire is the very left wire (dead center of pic), looks like its going into shadow but thats were the end is.

Heres the other end of another wire thats broken off. Again im lost to were it goes, the wireloom on it also ended there. Starting to think its whats left from the natural gas job, but the wires look too thick for that.

Next up, what i think is the EGR valve but not entirely sure, the grey crap on it is the stuff i used to fix the leak on it. The blue connector on the red wires will be getting replace with solder and heat shrink.

And this, i dont even know what the hell im looking at here. I remember putting the blue coupler in a while ago (fixed the temp sensor problem) but the silver wrap around the hack of wiring there doesnt look friendly.

And last is the thing i took up and cleaned up, no idea what it is, or how to find out if its good or not. When it was on the truck it made absolutely no difference if it was connected or not, i figure it might be broken.

Probably pointless to take pics, but i am curious to know if im looking at the right parts and how serious the wiring trouble spots are.

Thanks again guys

 

[BrooklynBay]

I would suggest that you repair anything that looks questionable. From the looks of your wiring, I think you might be better off getting an entire harness. That could be a few hundred from the dealer, and a real pain to replace. Just try to repair it, and see if there is any noticeable difference. The first step is to repair it so that the CEL doesn't come on with bad scan codes.

 

[Brandons]

Just about to go out and repair picture 1 problem, i think i can get some slack in the connectors at the transmission and solder that connection.

 

[Brandons]

Ok all soldered and heat shrinked, that is, the red wire for the TCC solinoid. Still throwing a 629 after i left the battery terminal off a half hour or so while i was workin on it. I had to replace the connector to the transmission, so i soldered that, put some vasaline on it, and heat shrinked the 3 wires.

Its going to have to go in to the tranny shop for a test drive and check up, probably going to have to buy a new EGR valve too.. this ones pretty rusted. Another problem im thinking is the fact i dont have catalytic convertors, not enough back pressure.. but it doesnt make sense since ive had the CEL light on before even the transmission was replaced. At the transmission shop he couldnt get any codes, but finally now i have them.

Every time i look at all the problems im starting to think maybe not put any more money into it, and start saving up for a V8 swap.... id save the money for a new truck (dodge dakota 4x4) but i just cant part with this one.. thats the worst problem about it lol.

 

[BrooklynBay]

How do you pass emissions without a catalytic converter?

 

[Brandons]

*cough* punch the insides out, go to a shop with new mechanics.. Also last time i had it for emmissions i still had one in tact, it passed with flying colours too (we punched out the one since it was pretty plugged). Intend on getting new exhaust by next spring, true duals with hi-flow cats.

I think im going to need to get a new EGR valve. And ill probably take it to the transmission shop this week, since i fixed the wiring to it with no resolution.

 

[Brandons]

Well a bit of an update, just found some good exhaust leaks on the exhaust pipe to the EGR valve, also might explain why i get the sound of a manifold gasket leak. Out comes the exhaust patch stuff . If that fails, out comes the stick welder!.... and if that fails........ out comes the pipe and in comes a new one.

 

[Brandons]

Even more, found more exhaust leaks on the pipe, and if i take the vacume line off the EGR valve the truck runs perrrfect. Before it was hesitating (sometimes dangerously when driving), and idling pretty rough.

 

[BrooklynBay]

Pull out the EGR, and see if the pipe leading to it is clogged.

 

[Brandons]

I did another test too, well i was messing around, i took a piece of tubing, put it on the egr. When i sucked in on it the engine would sputter and run extremely rough. Ill work on taking it off but its not going to be an easy task .

 

[BrooklynBay]

I remember reading somewhere that engine rebuilders check the EGR first whenever they get an engine to rebuild. Somehow, if the EGR failed, they could back track from that point, and determine what the engine needs as far as rebuilding. I don't know how they do this, but would think that if the engine had excessive pressure somehow (maybe on the valves), they could determine what needs to be repaired. I've never done engine rebuilding so it's not something I'm very familiar with.

 

[Brandons]

Well ive noticed blue smoke after starting up sitting for a night, goes on for a couple seconds....

V8 Swap is looking even more purdy day by day...