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Just curious Jon- why not spray through the screen? I've cleaned all of my MAF's that way and have never had issues... Am I inviting trouble doing that?
 






Just curious Jon- why not spray through the screen? I've cleaned all of my MAF's that way and have never had issues... Am I inviting trouble doing that?

I would say you're just not getting it as clean as you could by removing it. When removed you have access to all angles and sides. You can also be sure it's completely dry before reinstalling it. You do not want to fire her up with the wires wet with cleaner.
 






But if I wouldn't hold the nozzle hose next to the filament if removed anyway, and it still gets cleaner to the filament, It should do the same thing, no?

No problem waiting, I don't re-install right away anyway.

I've cleaned probably 30+ MAF's that way, and the ones that were dirty remedied themselves and none of them had issues afterward. Just wondering if there is a coating on the screen or something, similar to the throttle body.
 






A likely cause of misfire in that vintage are bad ignition wires. Had to replace them twice on my '98. If these are the original wires on your '97, they need to go.

If you can run your EX in a dark area with the hood open (and the underhood light disconnected), bad wires could be creating a wicked light show. But bad wires might also be arcing to ground at a point where you can't see.

So if you do this and don't see anything, don't assume the wires are still good. 135,000 miles on wires that "could" be original.... change them. Yeah, that could be considered "throwing money blindly at parts", but I call it basic preventative maintanance.

And why did you only change 2 plugs?
 






Just an update. I know this mechanic that will do a complete tune-up (plugs, wires, Fuel Filter, air filter, etc) for a trade for my laptop! I am unemplyed right now and dont have the cash for a tuneup at a shop, so this is a great alternative. My laptop is worth about 175 dollars and he is going to buy the plugs and wires. So its about an even trade. He is looking for a laptop and I desperately need a complete tune-up for my ex.

Also when I had a mech look at it it is still misfiring u can definately hear it. But also the misfires have moved from 1 and 6 to 3 and 5. So I am suspecting it is the wires that need replace, just a hunch. Hopefully the full tune-up will tell us more.
 






Make sure he uses Autolite or Motorcraft plugs- no Bosch...
 






Well I finally bit the bullet and am gonna trade my dell laptop for a complete tuneup, wires plugs etc..so we will see how it runs after that. I am thinking it might be the fuel filter or the intake manifold or fuel injectors. But we will see..wish me luck
 






Well bad news...the tuneup didnt fix the problem. The mech said I prob have a cracked head and a leaking water pump. So I am screwed now I lost a 175 dollar laptop and a 150 dollar camcorder. So I guess I am going to sell it. Cracked heads are not cheap to fix and I am unemployed. Thats my luck
 






Right now the code is showing up as a 301..anyone know what that is?
 






301 is misfire cylinder 1.... you should look in to chking/replacing the coil pack- they are usually $70 to $150
 






Just out of curiosity: how did the mechanic determine that the cylinder head is cracked? Did he find coolant in the oil or uneven compression, for example?
 






What exactly did you receive for what you paid? I would think he would have stuck with it a bit longer and read codes after a "complete tune up".
I am also curious how he arrived at the cracked head diagnosis.
At 1:30 you posted he is going to do the work, and at 4:15 he had given up.




Which parts did he buy?
 






I agree with Jon- I don't know how well you know this guy, but I think he's taking advantage of you. Nobody with a conscience would do that minimal work for what you gave him, and when the issue persists- just tell you to get bent. That's a bit of BS in my opinion, he owes you to at least look at it...

I guess- is he a mechanic, or someone you know who does "some work on cars" as there is a big difference.

Who on here is near Plano, TX?
 






Well the code is still 301...I am going to have another friend who is ASE come to my house and replace the plug in Cyl 1. If the code does not go away then I guess I ineed to check the fuel injectors or something. I think it might be time to take ol betsy to a mechanic shop. I just dont have any money since I am unemployed. Anyone in the plano area want to help me? I am am really pissed that this truck has been giving me such trouble. And to top it off last night on a dark road I hit a curb and shredded the 2 right tires brand new ones!!! I hand to drive it 1/2 mile to a racetrac gas station and have a cop drive me home. (Nice guy btw) so today we used AAA to tow it to discount tire where I bought 1 new tire and used the spare on the other one, so at least it it drivable now. But heck I need to find out why I keep getting this CEL code. I pray to god it is not a cracked head..wouldnt grey smoke be bellowing out if it was. oh and after the tune up the truck runs much better, more pep!!!

I just wish i still had my laptop and camcorder..I was taken on that deal..but I will get another 1 for christmas
 






Sorry to hear about your tire mishap.
As for the suspicion of a cracked head, replacing a plug again after it had just been replaced (presumably) is not going to do anything. However, 'reading' that plug may tell you if there is anything untoward happening in that cylinder. I would agree with the two posters that the 'mechanic' who took your laptop and your camcorder also took you for a ride... There are many possible reasons for a misfire, bad injector, bad coil (though that would affect two cylinders on opposite sides of the engine), etc, etc.
Sorry, I am way too far from Plano to come and help you. If you have someone more-or-less competent coming and bringing even a simple scanner, they should run on-demand diagnostics and see what else shows up and if that 301 code even persists. The (presumably) competent guy should follow the list of possible causes (any manual has that), and if nothing external shows up, the suspicion is on base engine. Checking compression - at least on the passenger side - is a simple thing to do. If your coolant level is going down and you don't see an external leak, look for signs of coolant in the oil (odor, milky appearance). Also check if you can see any signs of oil floating on top of the coolant in the burp bottle. Pressure-testing the cooling system is probably in order too. You can rent a compression gauge and a pressure-tester (and some other tools) for free from places like Autozone or O'Reilly. Good Luck!
 






if you are not smoking out of the exhaust you probably don't have a cracked head. is the cooling running out every few hours ? If not your head is ok.. I once had cyl 6 misfire and do all sorts of crazy things. It turned out to be the wire. Maybe he didn't put the plug in correctly. To diagnose it just switch around a wire from another good cylinder and if another cyl gives you problems then you know its the wire and not the plug or cylinder.
 






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