Coil Spring Placement | Ford Explorer Forums

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Coil Spring Placement

huskyfan23

Rah no Hans Bwix
Joined
November 21, 2002
Messages
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City, State
WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT 4x4
Quick question. Why is it so important to get your coil springs seated and facing the same way they were before you removed them?
 



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theres a slot or groove that they need to be positioned in or they will move on you. thats all.
 






Redrig is correct. There is a spring keeper at the top of the coil bucket. This finger will lock under one coil of the spring. I don't believe you can screw this up because the spring is only going to fit on one way.
 






Well I'm getting a weird clunk sound when I hit bumps and sometimes when I turn. I didn't twist the spring in all the way, could that be the problem?
 






Its actually very important to get the spring seated properly in the bucket.

Not only is the bucket designed to lock in the coil, but as you turn the spring you will actually lift/lower the truck wich effects alignement (camber).

Go look at a stock Explorer's springs and copy that.
Once you see how they fit you will now how and why the bucket is designed the way it is.

Yes your noise could be the coil moving :)
With my BII the bucket does not have the same "fingers" as the Explorer and the coil can easily drop out of the bucket at full droop, in fact with my old setup it did, and I didnt notice, I drove home with the coil 1/2 in the bucket, 1/2 out, not good :)

When I wnet to my new 6" wsetup I made some J hooks and actually bolted them to the coil bucket to keep the coil seated no matter what, this also acts as my limiting fator for droop, so no stress is put on the brake lines.

Go look at a stock Ex or two, then compare to your truck.
Loosen up the lower mountand turn your coils as needed (support truck by frame, let axle droop)

Check the alignment when its all correct if you care about your tires.
 






I've got an alignment appointment for tomorrow morning, today I'll just get the springs seated better.
 






The clunking sound turned out to be the radius arm, because it needs a new bushing, and my sway bar linkage. I no longer get that, the guy at Les Schwab tighetened everything up, as well as an alignment. Cost me $140, shims included. He said if I replace the bushing with 30 days he'll realign for free.
 






If your Bushings get real bad then the radius arm will start to ovate/wear the bracket where the radius arm passes through.. I would have this changed asap...
 






umm, Daystars
 






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