CopyKat's Copy Cat B4

[CopyKat]

Progress. I got the passenger beam in and the front shock mount is REALLY close to the superunner linkage.

Steering lock to lock is fine. I may have to do a bit of trimming on the back side of the beam as there is a bit of interference with the steering knuckle.

Drive beam is out and I'm waiting for the rad arm to dry. Later tonight I should have ALOT more pictures to show the progress

 

[R.J.]

lookin awefuly good mr. kate. waiting for the "more pics" so i can come back again and say "looking good"

 

[CopyKat]

lookin awefuly good mr. kate. waiting for the "more pics" so i can come back again and say "looking good"

It's looking mighty fine under the Bronco.:

Too late to get pictures. But the Axle shafts are in and the coils are back on. Even put the spindle snouts on.

Tomorrow is rotors brakes, shocks (Got to pull them out of hiding), and change over my front wheels.

The superunner linkage clears the shocks/shock mounts....JUST! The stock linkage would work better I'm sure.

 

[CopyKat]

 

[CopyKat]

 

[Tony Raine]

looks good! i'd like to do the 44 knuckle swap someday, just gotta find the donor for cheap. so does it look like there is an increase in track width?

 

[CopyKat]

looks good! i'd like to do the 44 knuckle swap someday, just gotta find the donor for cheap. so does it look like there is an increase in track width?

I can't tell just yet. It's back on wheels but I under estimated the offset of my aluminum wheels. They tuck in the fenders nice......

I'm thinking the offset was enough that I lost 1" of total width.

Pics will come later. It was well past dark when I pulled it out of the shop to settle the suspension.

I'll measure the other two wheels to see what the offset really is. With the spacers in the back I may be a touch wider out back. I may have to get longer wheel studs and a spacer to bring it back to even.

The new axle sure looks beefy under there

 

[Tony Raine]

tell ya what, next time you have your front wheels off, measure from the wheel mounting surface to mounting surface, and i'll measure mine (stock dana 35.)

 

[CopyKat]

tell ya what, next time you have your front wheels off, measure from the wheel mounting surface to mounting surface, and i'll measure mine (stock dana 35.)

You'll have to take in account that my axle was about 1" wider than stock, to start with.

 

[Tony Raine]

oh yeah, your bracket holes are a little further in, aren't they? noted

 

[CopyKat]

Tight huh?

Now on with the Show. It settled very nicely.

Looky real hubs!

I measured the other 2 rims. and they are a 4.25" and the old steelies were 3.75"

With the spacers out back the front is going to be too wide. Guess I'll need to get spacers for the front now too. :cry:

I think the red shock boots need to go. it doesn't go well with the rest of the truck.

 

[R.J.]

"tight huh" as in thats freakin tight! looks awesome, and those hubs! boy could i use some hubs like those.

the red shock boots look ok to me, they go with the red sticker on the beams.

and i really like the color of the beams, looks good and they look nice n' tough

 

[CopyKat]

the red shock boots look ok to me, they go with the red sticker on the beams.

I'm not crazy about running the boots anyway. I just don't like the idea of not seeing how far up the rod the shock travels.

Besides I can always peal the red sticker off and put a blue one on. I have some of those.

 

[Thighman]

Is having the tierod under the knuckle problematic during flex? Meaning will it be more prone to binding?

I know that is just how it is, but I know that my jeep buddys dana 30 starts to bind there. although his flexes like crazy

 

[CopyKat]

Is having the tierod under the knuckle problematic during flex? Meaning will it be more prone to binding?

I know that is just how it is, but I know that my jeep buddys dana 30 starts to bind there. although his flexes like crazy

Contrary to belief the TRE is not where it's going to bind on the TTB. My TRE are fine and my rad arm bushings (rubber) are fine it's the pivot bushings that bind first. The beams twist so much that the top of the bushing cans hit the lift brackets. Just need to touch up the alignment and then I'll get it out and twist up the suspension.

 

[R.J.]

oh is that where it binds! before when i've messed aroundwith my suspension it would bind when im trying to put the coil spring in and i thought it was the radius arms binding, but it was probably the pivot bushing. with the stock steering on mine, it doesn't bind at the TRE, it binds at the pitman arm.

 

[R.J.]

and oh yeah, i don't like shock boots either

 

[CopyKat]

with the stock steering on mine, it doesn't bind at the TRE, it binds at the pitman arm.

The superrunner is better in that regard. I may look at modifying the center link more. I'd like to drop the center 1.5" for better alignment and maybe move the block to the front of the tube.

Shock boots are getting cut off tonight. I'm too cheap to get black ones so I'll run them without. Not very often I'm in the mud so they don't get too dirty.

 

[410Fortune]

in my experience the shock boots trap dirt and water and will rust your shock bodies about 10x's faster then normal.

truck looks great! Can you turn full lock without the caliper hitting the beam??
I know you likely can but in those pics it looks close!
Nice work!

 

[CopyKat]

in my experience the shock boots trap dirt and water and will rust your shock bodies about 10x's faster then normal.

truck looks great! Can you turn full lock without the caliper hitting the beam??
I know you likely can but in those pics it looks close!
Nice work!

Good question. Answer is no! The lip on the beam needs to be trimmed back so that the steering stop will hit. I can add longer stops if need be. It'll only help with the longgevety of the U-joints. I've still got the alignment to do.

Here is some measurements to get some started should they do this. I'm sure most are asking what is base line info.

"My coils" (EB 5.5" coils with F150 upper buckets, 3" taller than an RBV, RBV coils would sit at 14") sit loaded at 17" with 1" spacer under them (Clearance for the axle beam). Drive side is sitting a tad high so I'm dropping that side spacer to 3/4"

Previously my track width was 60.25" and now it's 59.75" the wheels are 4" BS over the 3.75" before.

Pivots sit in the 4" lift hole. Passenger side F150 degree cam is 1° and the drivers side is a 1/2°.

Steering is the superrunner linkage with the outer TRE under the knuckle like found on an F150.

I'll get some more baseline info. I'm posting the Degree cam info. I asked about them from other members, I was looking at where to start from and they didn't know, what they used.

So now you have a baseline to go from. The original axle had 0° cams in both sides. I had cutoffs from a bent D44 TTB that I was able to get the cams from.