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Cost of Torsion Lift

Adam

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Joined
November 30, 1999
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City, State
St. Louis, MO
Year, Model & Trim Level
95 Sport
I am looking to do a 1" to 1.5" torsion lift to my Explorer and had a question. If anyone has a close idea to how much it will cost when all is said and done I would like to hear it. And is there any company that makes a 1.5" leaf lift or do I have to get one custom made. Thanks

Adam
 



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The Old Man Emu springs will give you 2" in rear, which from what I hear is the best way to go. They are probably costing you over $400 for the pair of springs.
 






The other option you have is to use an add-a-leaf from Explorer Pro Comp. I got mine for about $30. This will give you about 1.5-2 inches. Or there is always replacing the factory shackles with longer ones. This is good for about 1.5 inches as well.
 


















Thanks for responding, I was just wondering if anyone had any picture so fwhat the springs look like after being installed. Thanks

Adam
 






Adam,
Take a look at my truck, it has the OME Springs on it with 1.75" torsion bar lift. Just click on Ray's Truck in my signature.
 






1.5"X1.5" Lift

Adam,
My 95 uses the Ford replacement "B" code torsion bars cranked up about half way in the front, and extended shackles in the rear. This accomodates 32x11.5/16 tires very comfortably, or presently LT285/75R16s with minor rubbing on the tops of the wheel wells. Like Ray's, mine can be seen on my page. My pages also include part numbers and costs for the replacement torsion bars as well.You don't have to replace your torsion bars, just adjust them if you are happy with the ride as is. If you have the dough, go with the OME springs. If not, longer shackles, or add a leaves. Summit offers 3" add a leaves that might work and are innexpensive. Click below.
Rick
 






Hey Ray, How much do those Old Man EMU springs run? I would like to get a set. Where do I get them? thanks
 






Hi BLACK95,
I got mine free, for beta testing them before they went out on the market, so I was the very first person to have them in the United States. The word is they are running about $200.00 each, but I'll tell you. They are worth it. I did a 4 rated trail at the Moab Run(Steel Bender) and they worked really well. The springs are very well made and will hang alot better then the stock springs do. Here's a picture of the OME's next to the stock springs. Notice the differance. This is quality stuff. :)

To find a dealer near you call, write, or E-mail:

North, Central & South American Enquiry Centre:
Air Locker Inc.
20 South Spokane Street
Seattle, Washington 98134 USA
tel: 1 206 264 1669
fax: 1 206 264 1670

email: sales@arbusa.com



View
 






Well, mine weren't free, but I'm probably the second person to have them. :) $190-200 seems to be the going price. If that seems expensive, to me they're well worth it. I still have yet to really test them on the trail, but on the road, they're great. No more bouncing sideways after bumps, no more sway after quick lane changes, they work very well. I also have the OME shocks which work very well with these springs.

Unfortunately, I chickened out on Steel Bender. Something about that name.... :) Maybe next year.

BTW, there's a toll free number for ARB-US:

888-427-2872

Got it out of an ad in Four Wheeler Magazine. They'll set you up with a local dealer.
 






thanks a lot Ray. I'm gonna call them up today
 






Black95,
Don't forget to tell them you heard about their products on this website.
 






Do you know if there are any springs for the front suspension. And how they do with the front torsion bars. You know I went to a tune firm and when they saw the torsion bars on the front they where very afraid. They told me that if they make any adjustment of them they could break. What do you think about that.
 






Break, or Brake?

They could break, but I doubt it. Mine have been adjusted up and down from one extreme to another. I have swapped the originals out and replaced them with stiffer models from Ford. Any spring will break if you abuse it too much and take it past its limits. Its more likely that you will break something else first.
Rick
 






Hey Tom,
Any trouble fitting the OME springs on your Sport because of the 3" width?
Rick
 






Not at all, Rick. The ends of my factory springs narrowed down to 2.5". They use the same bushings, and the mounts and shackles are the same. I'll see if I have a photo of how it looks underneath the truck.
 






the best mod yet !!

to date ,this is the best mod I have done.The ride is firm, but not harsh,my bilsteins are performing so well with this spring setup.my freind from work is buying my stock size ko's,and early in the morning,i'll get the 265/75/16's,that are in stock at a local shop.

TOM :
just wondering, how much is the speedo off,and did you
get yours corected,
thanks,
 






Ahhh, the speedometer story...

Well, when the truck was new, I took the liberty of measuring my odometer against the mileage markers along the freeway. Over 10 miles, my odometer moved 10.0 miles, so the odometer was right on the money, new.

The speedometer was a different story; Our local police has a habit of placing this goofy trailer along roads where people speed a lot. It doesn't produce a ticket, but it has radar and it shows your speed as you drive by (it also has a big speed limit sign on it as a friendly reminder). Well, I drove by this thing at 35 mph and it said I was going something on the order of 32 mph, so the speedometer portion of my truck was off.

Now, after I changed the tires to the new 265's, I did the odometer thing again and found that after covering 10 miles, the odometer only moved 9.5, a 5% error. This figures properly with the tire diameter change which also calculated to about 5%.

The speedometer also changed 5% as one would figure, but it is now very close. I was following Ryan Penner through Colorado on the way to Moab and asked him how fast his GPS said we were going. I can't remember the exact speed, but it was within 1 mph of my speedometer reading.

So, after this long story and if you are still reading, I did not change anything to correct the speedometer. I'd rather have the speedo reading correctly, and 5% on the odometer isn't all that far off anyway. Besides, I think that a reprogramming would be in order to change it on these newer ones. I haven't looked but I remember reading that the speedo/odometer is controlled electronically rather than by a cable. I could be wrong.

Now, as to why they aren't both accurate is beyond me, but anyone who has a theory is welcome to present it. Maybe they want you to think you're going faster than you really are.
 



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thanks Tom,I'll check it all out after the new tires are on
 






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