COW+Rust+Winshield=Lotsa Hours >>Help Me<<

[m4dc0w]

COW+Rust+Winshield=Lotsa Hours >>Need paint advice now<<

I have a big problem, RUST.

I noticed in the last rainfall that my winshield was leaking, so I decided to put it in the garage and take a quick look.

I noticed surface lifting of the paint upon closer examination, so I decided to remove the moulding covering the winshield.

Low an behold I noticed that the channel is rough and that rust has established a stronghold along the winshield gap allowing the water through.

I was planning to replace the winshield in the near future anyhow, but they would probaly not install it if there is not a clean rust free surface for it to adhere to.

What would be the best ways to repair/remove this damage? I have an ample supply of por-15 products ready to fight it with.

What is the process of removing the winshield without major damage?

Any help will be definately appreciated.

Ken

 

[MustangAndy]

I know I'll most likely get shot down.

I would sand that edge down to get most of the surface rust and flaking paint off. Throw down a coat of Rustoleum Rust Reformer, then a coat or two of the matching body color.

-Andy
D.J.O.R. Netzhauptmann

 

[wood1]

Nasty rust there Cow... more bad news, if it looks like that on the outside and you already have a water leak then you can be sure that the rust goes right under the glass and there is really only one way to fix it right.

Pull the windshield, sandblast the rust out, fix the rust holes that you will probably find and then primer, fill and paint. You should be able to get a decent price from a body shop, they are doing jobs like that all the time.

We use to cut the windshield out for the customer, tape it back in for the drive to the body shop (or home depending on your skills) after the work was completed, install a new windshield (or the old one if it was in good enough shape).

Most likely your problem exists because the idiot that replaced the windshield the last time cut through the paint when trimming the urethane and didn't bother covering up the bare metal with anything.

Hope this helps.

 

[m4dc0w]

I know it looks bad, and it is definately under the winshield. I'll check out a local glass shop around here and see if they canremove & tape it.

If not a good kick or 2 should work after I do some cutting of the seal.


I am definately replacing the winshield, just think it'll take a bit of time to remove the rust properly, or at least.

Ken

 

[Gator Jeff]

If not a good kick or 2 should work after I do some cutting of the seal.

We want pics...better yet, a YouTube video link!

 

[m4dc0w]

We want pics...better yet, a YouTube video link!

Something is telling me it'll take a bit more work then I think.

I also have a shop that will send their mobile unit to remove it, then replace the winshield at a later date for $40 more than normal rates.

Maybe I'll do it that wat.

 

[m4dc0w]

Well I got a glass shop to come in and remove the windshield on Monday, and they will come in to install the new one when I get the work I needed done first.

I'm assuming there is some holes under the seal (or water wouldn't get in), any other things I should look out for?

Ken

 

[m4dc0w]

After removing the winshield I notice the rust was a little worst to wear. I notice it scaling, and the that urathane seal was actually not attached to the top part of the winshield as it peeled off the top like a banana.

I am finally ready to paint, after 2 coats of por-15, and 2 applications on bondo. The surfaces are about 90% smooth (100 grit sandpaper).

As this is my first attempt of rust removal and painting, I am asking for advice on the next steps.

I was planning to scuff up about 6" from the winshield for painting, but when I prime, do I prime over the paint? or just over the bondo and bare metal (I found a few small patches of rust needed to be polished to bare metal on the drivers side).

Ken

 

[DeRocha]

Check out the Leaky Windshield repair thread for pics and info. The repair features the use of POR-15..

 

[m4dc0w]

I used your thread for the basis of my work. Much appreciated.

The part that I'm working on now is the priming and color matching, a section that wasn't explained.

Ken