D44 outers on a D35. I found a better way.

[Racerx70]

I think i've done it! If you drive out the 5 studs for the d35 spindle, the 44TTB spindle is a perfect fit in the D35 knuckle. You'll have to redrill four holes, and you'll still only have five studs unless you drill extra holes for studs. But hey, it only had five to begin with.

You have two options for brakes, I think(haven't verified yet) that you can use a CJ-7 rotor in place of the F-150 rotor and possibly use the stock brakes. (checking this as soon as I get a CJ rotor to check with)

Other option is use the hub and rotor from the 44TTB. To do this you need to cut the brake ears off the D35 knuckle. Then get a caliper bracket from a (eek) chevy D44 or 10bolt. It bolts on top of the spindle bolts. Use the chevy inexpensive chevy calipers and pads. Wala! you now have full-size brakes, beefy bearings, internal spline hubs without huge mods.

Disclaimer...As of yet I have only verified fit of the Ford TTB spindle, hub and rotor. Getting the chevy brackets in a day or two, but they are referenced off the spindle, so it nearly a given.


Take it for what it's worth. I'll get pictures

 

[Creager]

drill, the knuckle?

sounds peachy, not sure if id trust my life on it though.

keep commin, lets see how this works out.

It might a little less cost effective, and a little more labor intensive, but the average joe can definatly tackle this one.

 

[bmxking5]

keep commin, lets see how this works out.

Definitely, I'm curious to see if all of this will work...so far it sounds like it does.

 

[410Fortune]

I wouldn't call it better, just yet
maybe another alternative?

The machining for the D44 ball joints on the D35 knuckle is not too difficult.

Also you could easily weld the D44 ball joint mounts (from beam) onto the D35 beam.

What you have to be really careful of here is the alignment of the axle stub shaft and spindle, also will the D35 axle shaft be the cirrect length for the spindle? the factory setup actually comes out of the diff (grease seal and axle shaft support bearing) and into the spindle at a slight angle.
This is why Camburg and the like build a slight offset into their extended beams (extended after the radius arm)
Otherwise inner diff grease seal failures and worn bearings are going to occur.

Lets see some PICS!
It might be easier, might work great, dont get me wrong! My beams are not perfect

 

[Derbytown]

I, too, want to see how this turns out.
Derbytown

 

[Creager]

also will the D35 axle shaft be the cirrect length for the spindle?

From what I understand the D35 shaft will not be the correct length.

Although the D44 and D35 stub-shafts utilize the same u-joint (at the wheels) so you can *******ize the d44 stub-shaft to the d35 u-joint.

Still, I don’t like the idea of drilling/redrilling the knuckle.

 

[Racerx70]

From what I understand the D35 shaft will not be the correct length.

Although the D44 and D35 stub-shafts utilize the same u-joint (at the wheels) so you can *******ize the d44 stub-shaft to the d35 u-joint.

Still, I don’t like the idea of drilling/redrilling the knuckle.

I will use the Dana44 stub shaft and the d35 inner shaft.

Racers used to redrill the older ford big five spindle and knuckle in between studs to make it Ten studs. Same with the 6 hole knuckles to 12. All but one of the six holes fall almost centered between the old holes. I'm gonna test having the old holes welded shut and redrilling after. I don't know how the knuckle will weld though.

Either way I'm not too worried about the knuckle failing. There is no more load on the bolts than stock. And It's still gotta be better than modifying the 44 knuckle and balljoints.

 

[410Fortune]

I want to see some pics when you get it done! Sounds allright to me, if the knuckle doesnt break from the welding and drilling.
I see people welding on knuckles all the time, even on this board (Rick)


I am pretty sure you can modify the D35 beams to accept the D44 knuckle with 0 modifications.
I plan to put the entire D44 TTB under my truck however, I want the additional 8" track width and all that wheel travel it comes with

 

[AKBroncoII]

I am just curious as to what's wrong with drilling the knuckles out? I think he could have gotten away with using the TTB 44 spindle personally. That way, just line the center of the spindle up, which is the same size, use a few transfer punches. And you are done. It will work, much easier than machining the ball joint or whatever, Drill a couple of holes, have the hub redrilled along with the rotor, and you are set, even have the same pattern.

 

[Kris Guilbeaux]

Personally I dont see this as an "easier" alternitive. Just another way to get to the same goal. I only modified the tie rod mount on my TTB 44 knuckle. Then made the TTB 35 ball joint fit the TTB 44 knuckle. Every thing lined up and Bolted up after that.

 

[410Fortune]

Kris, I saw that coming
I don't think you can change the thread title on this forum, hahaha It is set in stone.

 

[Kris Guilbeaux]

Kris, I saw that coming
I don't think you can change the thread title on this forum, hahaha It is set in stone.

Dont wanna change the title. I have all the parts to do that Swap his way in my garage. Inculding the chevy brake brackets. its never going to be a simple easy swap to a 44 hubs and bearings keeping the 35. If the Money and Time constrants were not a factor I would have this truck done already. but my axle might go in on my vacation which is next week so keep tuned for this to happen.

 

[Bronco_bill]

I am almost finished with mine. I used a tapered reamer to enlarge the d35 taper. D44 ball joints fit perfect without removing to much metal. With the same reamer I reversed the taper for the tierods. Still waiting for a sleeve that I think will finish up the required mods. My cost for conversion is around $100 for sleeves and reamer + $150 for F-150 parts.