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Die grinder for radius arm removal

huskyfan23

Rah no Hans Bwix
Joined
November 21, 2002
Messages
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City, State
WA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 XLT 4x4
Are there electric die grinders? I don't have a compressor and need to put on a new RA. I read you've gotta use a die grinder to get the rivets out. Is there something else I could use? I'm thinking an angle grinder's too big. Would a Dremel work?
 



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True Die Grinders run at 24,000 Rpm @ a constant 90PSI, no electric tool will do that.
Dremal with a Carbide bit might work, if it doesnt burn itself up, good luck
 






try a dremel bit in a drill
 






I used a grinder. Theres no way a die grinder could do it. You'll be there days.
 






What kind of a grinder?
 






I'm guessing an electric disc grinder. That's what I plan on using to get mine out.
 






Um...an angle grinder? Just bought a nice Makita with 4 disks and case for 48 bucks, going to use it on my sas :)
 






You're replacing the entire Radius arm? Should be no need to grind off those rivets to remove the bracket. Unbolt radius arm from axle beam (hardest part, I think), unbolt shock absorber, undo the nut at the end of the radius arm, and remove radius arm. By the book, this is also the way to replace the radius arm bushings. People find it is easier to replace the bushings by grinding out the rivets so they can remove the bracket rather than remove the radius arm.
 






A 4" disc grinder, black and decker variety, will make some seriously short work of all the rivets on your frame.
My black and decker has been through about 40 wheels since I have owned it for the last 3 years (before that I had to borrow one) and it is one of my best friends.

You gotta pay attention when you do it so you dont cut the frame, but basically you just grind the head of the rivet off in about 2 minutes with the grinder wheel, then make sure there is no stress on the bracket you are removing and punch it through with a punch and hammer, tey take literally 5 minutes each.
Dont be afraid of sparks, and if you are doing the suspension use some rope to tie the plastic fender skirts up and out of your way.
 






How many amps should the angle grinder have? What size disc should I buy?
 












I would try MRSHORTY's way first. It sounds easier and less time finding new hardware to replace the rivet. As for the Milwaulkee, good tools if your looking for something your gonna use daily. I got a Hitachi from Sears for 25 bucks and it works great. I guess I'm just cheap :confused:
 






Ah, didn't even see that. That'll be my pick! ;) So to get the RA off, after being unbolted, just pull on the beam?
 






Good question, I grinded the rivets :confused:
 






huskyfan23 said:
...So to get the RA off, after being unbolted, just pull on the beam?
After unbolting the for 4 bolts/nuts that hold the radius arm in place, the radius arm should come right out. The hard part is getting the bolts that hold the radius arm to the beam. They are on there tight (spec is like 200 ft. lbs), probably been on there for 10+ years without ever being removed, and it's an interesting exercise trying to get a socket on the nut inside the spring.
If you haven't referred to a manual, yet, I would suggest you get a manual (Chiltons is a little sketchy, but adequate) and see what it says.
 






Thanks, I just finished. 30 minute job! The bottom RA arm hole was rounded out quite a bit, causing a clunking at various times.
 






Um the radius arm is held in with 1 big nut on the bushing side and one upper and lower bolt on the beam. The upper bolt doubles as the spring retainer. The right extension, socket, and breaker bar will make short work of those.
I dont remember on the stock truck but there is no way in the world the radius arm is coming off that easy.....it is faster to grind the rivets IMO. Takes like 2 hours for the total job, both sides, working slowly with beer and hand tools.
 






I've got coil spacers, and have removed the spring at least 10 times. It was real easy to get everything off, since it had been off a year ago.
 






I can't believe I forgot to tell my story!

I used the breaker bar to loosen up the radius arm bolt under the cat. After that I switched to a ratchet. I was ratcheting (was still on there fairly tight), the socket slid, and I split my lower lip with a beefy Craftsman 1/2" ratchet! It was bleeding inside and outside. It sucked. I can never get through suspension work without some kind of body damage, to myself!
 



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Wait till you try doing a 5.0L sdrivetrain conversion
The injuries just keep on coming
Grinder chip hit my lip the other night and I have a nice burn/welt there now, I was wearing a full face mask, figure that one out.
 






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