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Disconnecting anti-sway bars on a late model

Andy97XLT

Well-Known Member
Joined
December 6, 1999
Messages
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City, State
Kensington, Maryland
Year, Model & Trim Level
'97 Frankenstein XLT
I'd like to dissconnect my anti-sway bars but am worried about a few things. I guess Gerald might be the best authority on this because he lost his on his '99.
If the sway bars are removed, will brake lines be torn out if the wheels drop too much? How about the possibilty of damaging the CV joints and/or the shocks?
I was also thinking about trimming the bump stops. I found two in the rear: one on each side, bolted to the frame above the axle. I would like to trim those down as well as the two I found in the front. Is this a bad idea?
Also, is there any way to make discos for the anti-sway bars? I'd rather be able to re-connect them once back on the road because my Explorer already handles pretty poorly.
It was either this or getting longer links to the bars.


------------------
Happy Wheelin,

Andy Statland
'97 XLT
4.0L OHV 4x4 4Dr
4 speed Auto Trans w/OD
Warrior Twist
K&N Drop-in
Bosch +4 Plats
 



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Also, what about the third shock on the rear axle? Should I remove that if I remove the sway bar? It seems like that would be a limiting factor while trying to reach max articulation.
 






I've had no problems with brake lines, etc. Disconnecting sway bars will not affect that at all; it just frees up each side to work independently.

I kept the third shock. All I did was remove the front bar and disconnect the back bar. I reconnect the back when I tow.

I think's there been a few threads on fashioning quick disconnects and that's how I suggest others go. I only kept mine off permanently because mine rode so incredibly stiff beforehand I thought I would lose my teeth fillings. It's smooth as an auto now. But I lose cornering abilities. If it didn't make such a difference in the ride I'd reinstall them immediately. Even if you don't have quick disconnects it doesn't take but a few minutes to unbolt them anyway. It's not a big deal. You definitely do want to disconnect them before doing any serious offroading because it makes a huge difference offroad.


------------------
Gerald
"Nerves of Steel; Brain of Chipmunk"
'99 Eddie Bauer 4x4 4.0L SOHC aka "The Jeepeater"
Dead Link Removed
"What the heck is he doing out here in that thing???"
 






Gerald,
Thanks for the adivice! I just removed both bars and it handles like a boat. I guess I'll have to get used it. I'm going out tomorrow to test!
To make dissconnects for the front, I'm going to using the stock bolts by drilling a small hole toward the bottom of each bolt. When I need to reinstall them, I'm going to install them upside down, using a cotter pin and wing nut instead of the stock nut.
 






http://www.jps.net/persson/products.htm

Persson makes swaybar disconnects for late model explorers. They are famous for their toyota models, and I don't even think they publicize the explorer ones. But they do make them. I've emailed them about it. They make it for a variety of lifts as well.
 






Persson is about 6 to 8 weeks behind on fabbing. I wanted to get a set before Moab, but it ain't gonna happen. I'll wait until I get back from Moab to order them. Cost $117.00 + shipping. He makes them as they are ordered. They look pretty top notch. Dead Link Removed

------------------
Happy Wheelin'
Ray L.
97 XLT 4X4 4.0L SOHC
Dead Link Removed
 






His website says the disconnects are only for 98+ Explorers. Is there any difference, or will these also work for the 95-97's?

------------------
Brian Corff
Dead Link Removed
"Beware the lollipop of mediocrity. Lick it once and you suck forever."
 






FYI, this just found on their web site:

Note: Persson Off-Road Systems is out of business and is no
longer making competitive rockcrawling & off-road racing products.
(no items left in stock, sorry)
 






Yea I know, but the good news is "Warrior Products" does make quick disconnects for the Explorer for the front.
 






...and the rear.
 






Hey you can just try removeing one side on the front and the back it works great and that way you do not need to tie the bar up and still get good articulation it worked for me in Moab.

Wade
 






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