jd4242
Explorer Addict
- Joined
- October 15, 2008
- Messages
- 10,624
- Reaction score
- 316
- City, State
- va beach
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 92explorer&94 ranger
this is going to be a quick way to pressure test you engine block.ive been getting oil in my water and before i pay for the heads to be tested i wanted to test the block first for cracks.if anyone has a different way please post and share
first you got to have your heads off but leave on and in the water pump,cam,lifters and oil filter on.i just taped up the end of the water pump with duct tape to keep water from coming out.i also all ready had an oil psi gauge hooked up to the truck but if you dont have one now would be the time to buy one.i used a t fitting where the stock oil psi line hooks to,i had a spare one but just hook it up to the motor just like if it was in your truck.you can all ways wing it with out one but you will have no idea how much psi you are running and can damage something im sure!!
next fill the motor with oil and make sure you have a filter on!!then you need to block off the oil passage way that feed the heads.it is the middle one,i took some scrap metal and cut little tabs,you can drill holes for the head bolts to go through or just notch them like i did.you need to put nuts on them and the two bolts that hold you tranny in on the crossmember have nuts that fit right on your head bolts.
i used some rubber from and old inter tube for a bike tire,you just want to put the head bolts in and cover the oil passage hole with rubber,then the tab you cut so the nut spins on it and tighten the nut down covering hole.
next to spin the oil pump i used a e11 torx bit and it needed to be grinded down just a little so it would fit in the hole to spin the pump.the real size of it is an e12 but there is no way to grind that down to get it in the hole,the e11 works and goes on enough for you to sin it just keep pressure on it.i used an extension to an adapter to an 1/4 so it would go in my drill.tape the socket to the extension helps keep it on.
finally you can chose to do this or not but i think it helps.take and boil some water till it reaches about 190 on the stove then pure it into your block water passage ways.i think this helps to mimic a block at temps and may help the crack open up a little.now just have some one spin the oil pump and look down inside of every water passage hole for oil coming out or leaking.i used an uv dye in my oil and a uv light to look down in the water ways.i ran mine for a couple mins let it sit for awile check for oil floating and retest for 5min.i ran at about 40psi with the block up to 190 degrees!!never saw anything so it seems the block is good.thats it quick and simple way to test your block
first you got to have your heads off but leave on and in the water pump,cam,lifters and oil filter on.i just taped up the end of the water pump with duct tape to keep water from coming out.i also all ready had an oil psi gauge hooked up to the truck but if you dont have one now would be the time to buy one.i used a t fitting where the stock oil psi line hooks to,i had a spare one but just hook it up to the motor just like if it was in your truck.you can all ways wing it with out one but you will have no idea how much psi you are running and can damage something im sure!!
next fill the motor with oil and make sure you have a filter on!!then you need to block off the oil passage way that feed the heads.it is the middle one,i took some scrap metal and cut little tabs,you can drill holes for the head bolts to go through or just notch them like i did.you need to put nuts on them and the two bolts that hold you tranny in on the crossmember have nuts that fit right on your head bolts.
i used some rubber from and old inter tube for a bike tire,you just want to put the head bolts in and cover the oil passage hole with rubber,then the tab you cut so the nut spins on it and tighten the nut down covering hole.
next to spin the oil pump i used a e11 torx bit and it needed to be grinded down just a little so it would fit in the hole to spin the pump.the real size of it is an e12 but there is no way to grind that down to get it in the hole,the e11 works and goes on enough for you to sin it just keep pressure on it.i used an extension to an adapter to an 1/4 so it would go in my drill.tape the socket to the extension helps keep it on.
finally you can chose to do this or not but i think it helps.take and boil some water till it reaches about 190 on the stove then pure it into your block water passage ways.i think this helps to mimic a block at temps and may help the crack open up a little.now just have some one spin the oil pump and look down inside of every water passage hole for oil coming out or leaking.i used an uv dye in my oil and a uv light to look down in the water ways.i ran mine for a couple mins let it sit for awile check for oil floating and retest for 5min.i ran at about 40psi with the block up to 190 degrees!!never saw anything so it seems the block is good.thats it quick and simple way to test your block
