Does this battery need to be replaced?

[Bostonmeche]

Hi all,
I am a proud new owner of a lightly used 2016 Explorer Sport with 33k miles. I've had it for a week and noticed that battery acid corrosion (I think) is developing on the battery clamp (opposite side of battery terminals). Strangely, the battery terminal are clean. I took it into the Ford Dealership today and they claim that their battery tester (really a fancy volt meter) checks out OK (i.e. they won't replace under warranty). What are your thoughts? Is this normal for Explorers as they claim? I don't know why it would be normal for Explorers but not normal for other cars, unless it is a defect. If it is normal and expected, can someone explain why?

In the end, if it not normal, I will change the battery regardless as I prefer not to premature corrode my engine bay.

Thanks for the help...

 

[JAPeterson]

Did the dealer clean up the connection?

If not get some Arm & Hammer Baking Soda and mix up a cup of it into about 1/2 gallon of water. Get a soft bristle brush that can be thrown away and clean up the corrosion. I give all my vehicle batteries a bath in this mixture at least once a year to keep the acid off of the battery and just make them look better. The baking soda will neutralize the acid that is on the surface of the battery. I'll also place those anti corrosion pads under the battery terminals about every other year.

Also if you don't believe the dealer about the batteries condition you can stop by a AutoZone or other parts store and they will do a load test on the battery for free.

 

[Bostonmeche]

Thanks for the quick reply!

The corrosion was not at the +/- terminal connection. The corrosion is between the battery case and the metal bar that keeps the battery in place on the side of the battery that is OPPOSITE the terminals. The dealer poured hot water (from the coffee machine, so no baking soda) onto the crystals that formed.

I'm familiar with the yearly grind of checking the terminals and ensuring they are properly connected and corrosion free. I believe the load test will pass as the battery seems to have plenty of current to start the truck.

I was more curious about battery acid corrosion occurring no where near the terminals. I'm haven't seen that before and didn't know if others have.

 

[JAPeterson]

All batteries will leak a certain amount of acid that will get onto the top of the battery and even run down the sides and get onto anything that is near it. That is where I like to give it a bath in baking soda, not just the battery but the surrounding area just to keep the acid neutralized and to prevent this type of corrosion.

 

[Bostonmeche]

fair enough! thanks!

 

[toypaseo]

Don't have any baking soda on hand? Use regular Coca Cola. Just pour it on. After you see what that does, you'll think twice about drinking it

 

[omar302]

I had a MotorCraft battery about 1.5 years old that had cracks in the case, they were not easily visible due to the cables & connectors, but it did cause a lot of corrosion on the negative terminal. I know it's a bit different than your case, but the point is that even a large crack and being 1.5 years old, it still passed the dealer's test, which was expected as the car started & ran fine, but corrosion was too much, anyway, once the parts guy saw the cracks they replaced it under warranty.

If yours gets more corrosion, I'd suggest you remove the battery to better inspect for cracks in the case.

 

[Bostonmeche]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to do that today. The corrosion comes back the next day so there must be a case issue i think.

 

[Turdle]

Don't have any baking soda on hand? Use regular Coca Cola. Just pour it on. After you see what that does, you'll think twice about drinking it

That is just a reaction from the sodium ( high ph) in the soda pop and acid ( low PH) from the battery solution . All soda pop will do this.

If you do use a sodium cleaner, be sure to hose off all drip areas real good, and rinse your driveway well. You don't want the solution dripping on the suspension components without a good rinse.

 

[Nasty]

I just had mine fail at 29,000 miles.

 

[imp]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to do that today. The corrosion comes back the next day so there must be a case issue i think.

@Bostonmeche
ALWAYS, ALWAYS, without fail, clean off the area on top of your battery around the posts using a brush (toothbrush is good) dipped in baking soda solution. Check that the posts are at least gray, not dirty brown like burnt. Best is to take a 1" wide strip of sandpaper, folded in half lengthwise, and use it to clean those posts by pulling it back and forth while holding the strip taught against the post. When shiny bright, coat the post and surrounding area with any good GREASE, Vaseline is good.

Clean inside part of cable terminals using a rat-tail file on the I.D., the tapered part which clamps onto the post. Should be shiny-clean, Lead color. Coat that entire terminal with the same grease used on the posts. Open the terminal if necessary with a biog screwdriver by spreading it, idea is to get it ALL the way down onto the post, which is tapered. Tighten the terminal well, until you cannot twist it on the post.

Such a connection will survive acid leakage, vapor, corrosion, etc., for years. imp

 

[asull85]

I just had my battery replaced at about 29,500 miles. The battery was drawing on itself and would be dead after about 6 hours of it sitting in the driveway.

 

[imp]

I just had my battery replaced at about 29,500 miles. The battery was drawing on itself and would be dead after about 6 hours of it sitting in the driveway.

@asull85

Batteries occasionally short-circuit partially internally, in which case they die pretty quick. Main thing is that you be certain it was not being drawn down by something in the vehicle. imp