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Door Lock Problem

Post number 12 has been selected as best answered.

My driver door unlock switch only unlocked while door was open at certain angles and the unlock didn't work at all. After the window control stopped I had enough and headed for the wire bundle at door hinge and found the broken window wire and severed unlock wire. Fixed it and moved to the lock issue by fixing the pnk/ylw 3x spice at drvr side rear door. So glad to clear this up. MANY THANKS to all that posted suggestions and schematics, especially bluestream1 for the photo!
 



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I have a similar issue to this thread. though, the issue is between driver and passenger door. the Driver door will LOCK, but not Unlock. and the opposite for the passenger door.( unlocks, doesn't lock) and any suggestions to that?
 






Wow, thank you gtgillis and Andy94SC!!! This exactly solved my problem. I've also been locking my door from the rear for two years, but now, with couple easy solders, my both my driver and passenger locks work, the remote works again, and the keypad entry also works. It was the pink and yellow corroded wires under the driver side passenger door. I'm very happy now!
 






I have the same issue, only being able to use the tailgate lock to lock the car. I found a splice (pink/green wires) under the rear drivers side seat. The splice was slightly corroded, so, I repaired and resoldered the splice, but that did not fix the issue.

Does anyone know the location of any other splices to check?

Also, I checked the voltage at the drivers door switch and it was about one-volt lower than other working switches. I suspect its some other corroded connection that is reducing the voltage. Or, is one-volt difference at that switch not enough to cause this issue?.

I've also looked at the "barrel" connection at the drivers side door, I've downloaded as many schematics as I could find, but do not know which connection to look at. THe barrel has lots of connections.
 






mike60510, before finding this article, I repaired three wires that were corroded between the drivers door. This allowed me to use my keypad again and the unlock button on the drivers door, but not the locking functions. It sucks, but unless you have the schematics, you should just start checking where the wire are shrink wrapped. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
 






Great source for wiring diagrams. Look for the door lock schematics; that will give you the wire colors and connections, but not the physical routing. If pink/yellow is lock, I believe unlock is pink/lt green. Good luck.

Auto - Online Repair Info
http://search.ebscohost.com/
Login ID: rrcc
Login PW: rebsco
Select: Auto Repair Reference Center
Fill in: Find Your Vehicle
Follow prompts down to Wiring Diagrams.
 






All switches work. None of the 5 will make the hatch lock rod go fully up or down. Power does go to the lock actuator and it does move but not far.

Must be stuck or the actuator is not forceful enough or the wiring is bad. Going to get to the wiring soon. Still havent found the bad part of the wire for the window motor on front passenger door either.

I have just jumped the window motor to make it work for now.
 






I had the same problem, and thanks to this tread I was able to fix it. Mine was corroded in the connector that joins the one pink/yellow wire to three. It looked fine from the outside, but was powder inside. I don't think this is from water, but from the process used to join the wire together. The copper on the wire was still like new on either side of the factory connector, so I don't think water was the issue. Maybe the wrong solder was used in the manufacture of the harness.

Here is a pic of the repair after I soldered in a splice and used shrink wrap. Whole job took about 30 min.

My 4 door 99 Explorer had lock issues. This picture helped me fix it.
The unlock worked on the key fob, the passenger side door and the switch at the back hatch. The lock switch only worked from the back hatch switch. It was fairly simple to do knowing where the connection was corroded The photo included a shot of the rear seats leg so I found it within seconds of pulling the panel off.
Thank you so much, this saved me so much money, time and energy.

ford002.jpg
 






my door ajar light is on . and my doors wont lock with either switch (02 xlt) but they will unlock everytime do i need to look at driver backdoor wiring?
 






Re the door lock issue: Do the doors lock with the remote and/or the switch at the liftgate? If they do, look for a problem in the splice discussed in posts above.

Re the door ajar light: Probably a problem with the switch in the drive's door lock assembly. Good luck.
 






Door Ajar light, lock/unlock not working driver door

I have a strange situation. My daughter just purchased a 2002 4x4 XLS and the Door Ajar light is on and the driver door lock/unlock switch does not work, nor does the mirror switch. All the other door lock switches work for U/L including the hatch.

There was no FOB with it but we got one. I tried to program it but can't and assume it is because the door ajar is on? The programming process with the turning key off and on works and all doors L/U when ready. That seems to me the wiring may be good.

I have read all the above and I guess i should start behind the door panel and the boot between door and truck.

Any other suggestions?
 






I have a strange situation. My daughter just purchased a 2002 4x4 XLS and the Door Ajar light is on and the driver door lock/unlock switch does not work, nor does the mirror switch. All the other door lock switches work for U/L including the hatch.

There was no FOB with it but we got one. I tried to program it but can't and assume it is because the door ajar is on? The programming process with the turning key off and on works and all doors L/U when ready. That seems to me the wiring may be good.

I have read all the above and I guess i should start behind the door panel and the boot between door and truck.

Any other suggestions?

Nope - latch switch for door ajar issue; broken wires in boot for lock/unlock/mirror issue. Good luck.
 






Nope - latch switch for door ajar issue; broken wires in boot for lock/unlock/mirror issue. Good luck.

Thanks Bob! Next on my chores is to remove engine in 98 4x4 and rebuild it.
 






Diagram for Ford Explorer

I need a picture diagram of front door drivers panel so I can fix my door lock that won't unlock.
 






Got to say thanks to Bluestream for the pic. This really helped out and now both front doors lock and unlock again. Took me longer to find my tools to do the job than it did to fix it.
 






The power door locks in my 1999 XLT will not lock using the switches on the driver or passenger doors. Strangely, I can open the back hatch and use the power lock switch there to lock and unlock the doors. Since I can lock and unlock from the back I am ruling out the actuators and relays leaving only the lock switches or wiring. I am leaning toward the problem being a broken wire since driver and passenger lock switches act the same way.

Comment? Suggestions?

Does anyone have a schematic of the driver door wiring?

Regards,

Greg
I have the same problem drivers side unlocks with flob and power button but won’t lock. The other 4 doors do nothing but the rear hatch works great
 






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