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Door weatherstripping

aldive

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Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 XLT
What is involved in replacing the weatherstripping on a door?

Thanks in advance ....
 



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On my 03, there is a lite epoxy and holding clips. The holding clips I've only seen along the doors, but not the hatch doors. To remove it is easy, to replace it takes time and do-overs to get them on just right. (And of course, the Armorall)
 






Al, do you mean the rubber surrounding strip on the body that the door(s) meet? Not much- you may have to remove or loosen a couple of clips (like the upper innier door trim by the headliner) to give it room, but they just pull off. The doors, both hatch pieces (window and hatch) and the hood are all held on my friction and a lite epoxy, but not "glued" down by any stretch. The bottoms of the doors have some small ones held in my little mini-christmas tree pins
 






On my 03, there is a lite epoxy and holding clips. The holding clips I've only seen along the doors, but not the hatch doors. To remove it is easy, to replace it takes time and do-overs to get them on just right. (And of course, the Armorall)

Have you actually removed and replaced the weatherstripping?
 






Al, do you mean the rubber surrounding strip on the body that the door(s) meet? Not much- you may have to remove or loosen a couple of clips (like the upper innier door trim by the headliner) to give it room, but they just pull off. The doors, both hatch pieces (window and hatch) and the hood are all held on my friction and a lite epoxy, but not "glued" down by any stretch. The bottoms of the doors have some small ones held in my little mini-christmas tree pins

Yes, Joe, thats what I am talking about.

Thanks for the info.
 






No prob- Just watch when pulling it off, some of the trim pieces like to bind it and if you pull it, it may chip the edges of the trim (just brittle from age) l did that with the upper door trim so if you need to loosen one, go ahead and either pop it up or you can pry the trim up with a screwdriver to give yourself some room to work the weatherstrip out. I'm always on the lookout for a good trim at the junkyard...
 






Removed...

Have you actually removed and replaced the weatherstripping?

Only removed it to run cables through the seat belt pillar. Then popped it right back on. No need for epoxy unless it's new weatherstripping. (I was shown by the shop how to do this)
 






Only removed it to run cables through the seat belt pillar. Then popped it right back on. No need for epoxy unless it's new weatherstripping. (I was shown by the shop how to do this)

Why did you ave to remove weatherstripping to do this?
 






Pics...

Cb mount cable ran through the pillar... so they had to take off the body/door jam stripping to get to the pillar... Later, I got curious and pulled the stripping off the door itself... It's pretty clean. The last pic is the door itself...

The epoxy is on the hatch doors...
 












I have bought new door jamb weather strips for a few of my doors. It shrinks with age, and they aren't too expensive. I think they were under $50 each. The plastic trim should be removed to easily get them off. There is a steel inner core which has a spring tension which holds them on.

Don't bother trying to transplant used stuff, it will be shorter than new, and leave a gap or not fit the corners.

When installing them start where you want the seam at the bottom. Give plenty of material to each corner, don't try to stretch it through the corners. If it is installed naturally(no stretching or crushing - length), there should be a hair of extra length at the other end. That is what you want, evenly spread the bottom sections so that they meet and have a little pressure against each end. That way it will not leave a gap for a long long time at the seam. If never removed it doesn't usually show any shrinkage. Regards,
 






The rears are not so cut and dry...
 






Difference- the Gen III's have a lip on the weatherstrip that covers the edge of the plastic trim. The Gen II's do the opposite- trim covers the weatherstrip...
 






I have bought new door jamb weather strips for a few of my doors. It shrinks with age, and they aren't too expensive. I think they were under $50 each. The plastic trim should be removed to easily get them off. There is a steel inner core which has a spring tension which holds them on.

Don't bother trying to transplant used stuff, it will be shorter than new, and leave a gap or not fit the corners.

When installing them start where you want the seam at the bottom. Give plenty of material to each corner, don't try to stretch it through the corners. If it is installed naturally(no stretching or crushing - length), there should be a hair of extra length at the other end. That is what you want, evenly spread the bottom sections so that they meet and have a little pressure against each end. That way it will not leave a gap for a long long time at the seam. If never removed it doesn't usually show any shrinkage. Regards,


Don, thanks for the input.

Question: I am looking at the weatherstrip on the LMC Truck site; it appears to be a solid loop. Is this correct?

see item # 5 in the picture.
 

Attachments

  • weatherstripping.jpg
    weatherstripping.jpg
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It should be split at the bottom where the arrow is.
 






Yes it's one long strip from Ford. I understand about the 2002+ parts, the 90's Town Cars have a cover edge as part of the weatherstrip too. I used that in one of my 95 Crown Vics.

Al, do post up how much the aftermarket stuff costs. I need at least one rear piece, and I might do others for my trucks. Regards,
 












Too expensive... Stripping doesn't cost that much...
 






I'll double check my Ford guy, I know it was less a couple of months ago.
 



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I have removed said weather strip 1,000's of times.
No real secrets or tricks. It is about as straight forward as they come.
Careful observation is the key.
 






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