Dreamr's rig is sick .....advice

[dreamr]

Trust me to ask a newbie question, but the search feature borrowed too much of my time telling me the things I was already aware of.....again and again and again.

The story

I nioticed a few months back that the Explorer was running a bit rough for the first minute or so after start up. Ran fine the rest of the time, so I figured it was time for a tune up and she probably was mad at me for parking her outside in the cold.

In early Jan. I proeceeded with abit of maintenance.
Diffs flushed
engine flushed (new filter and amsoil)
replaced coolant
replaced PCV
replaced Spark plugs
replaced plug wires
cleaned K&N (cleaned MAF 2 weeks later just in case it got too oily)
replaced fuel fiflter
and uhh well I probably missed something

In general the condition described above remained the same though my vehicle ran noticeably smoother once warm and fuel consumption dropped slightly.

Today was as any other in the morning. Rough start up, but ran great after a couple seconds. I went too lunch and it started up rough, but was a bit more consistent than a normal morning. It did not go away, and when I drove it, it was obviously missing on at least one cylinder if not randomly. I somehow fought it home though it was bucking and actually had a minor backfire or two.

Once home I checked for codes.....None and no lights either. I checked over all of my work from January.....note around 2500 miles have passed. I found nothing. I pulled out a spare set of plugs and tossed them in. The problem persisted.

The plugs I pulled out looked normal except for the front driver #6? was black and very fouled. The passenger rear (#1 or #3) was redish brown and appeared almost glazed.

All of the secondary resistances on the coil pack were equal and within spec. The primary is difficult to check in the truck, but appeared normal though I couldn't be sure that I had tested at all 3 negative prongs.

I ran a test cycle by disconnecting 1 wire at the coil pack then starting it. The truck ran really bad with every plug wire disconnected (seperately of course) except for # 6. With 6 disconnected it ran like previously.

I had to come in to feed my kid and get her to bed so I can't follow up with the obvious test of borrowing a wire from the mustang to replace #6 till later.

I will post back then, but in the meantime what have I overlooked in my diagnostics???

 

[chriswells78]

The #6 spark plug, was the white part cracked? It obvously isn't firing right and you didn't say you replaced it. I'd say replace that plug with a new plug, maybe it's just defective. Maybe the wire is defective.

I don't think your mustang wire will fit. You have a DIS coil pack on the goat, I believe. Your stang has a distributor, using a different kind of boot.

The plug is cheaper than the wire, I would replace it first. Did you keep the reciept to the wires? They may replace it for free since it hasn't been that long since you bought them.

I hope this helps

 

[dreamr]

The #6 spark plug, was the white part cracked? It obvously isn't firing right and you didn't say you replaced it. I'd say replace that plug with a new plug, maybe it's just defective. Maybe the wire is defective.

The white part on number six was lightly cracked from detonation, propbably on the drive home. All the plugs were replaced in january (Motorcraft). When I pulled the plug tonight I put my "new" spare set of Bosch plats in.

I don't think your mustang wire will fit. You have a DIS coil pack on the goat, I believe. Your stang has a distributor, using a different kind of boot.

You are right I just was not thinking clearly at the time apparently. I also carry spare wires in my tool box, so I took the longest one and one by one bypassed the current wire at #6 and #3. It actually ran worse on #6 with the spare wire.

At this point I have left it alone to play with RC trucks instead

Next I suppose I start testing the EGR system?

 

[boominXplorer]

I ripped all my EGR stuff off my truck and I have no problems except a high idle when cold and a CEL after like a week of driving.

I really think you need to check some compression for any type of head gasket / cracked head problem.

Do you have any type of SCT chip or Apten chip in it?

 

[410Fortune]

How many miles are on the OHV?

Boomin check here: fordfuelinjection.com for a real EGR delete.


I agree with Boomin, I would do a compression test on the engine, especially the rear most cylinders.
Has this truck ever been overheated? run hot?

 

[dreamr]

Now you guys are scaring me,,,,,

Boomin,

Yes I use an SCT Flasher, but no chip with connection issues.

I have run into several cases detailed on here where the EGR valve has become plugged or etc.. and caused a similar issue, so I will at least do a couple of the test described here and in my Chilton's......Y'all are probably right about it having no relation however.

410

Miles are right around 102,500.

The truck has never been overheated or run overly hot since I have owned it. While I agree that a head gasket or cracked head may be a culprit I would see some other signs would I not? There is no color to the exhaust, Oil looks normal, no coolant loss....................



So a compression test is next ehhh Wanna just ship me over one of your extra GT-40 5.0's.)

 

[Albino 94LTD]

UMMMM, you got a 5.0 donor in the driveway

jk

 

[410Fortune]

My extra 5.0L drivetrain has 153K miles on it and the trans was slipping
I will keep it in storage and rebuild these suckers for another project (possibly a 2wd Ranger or Fox body stang )





compression test regardless, we are looking for a stuck valve or bad rings.

 

[dreamr]

compression test regardless, we are looking for a stuck valve or bad rings.

I will look into buying a tool when I get paid tomorrow. My fear was the stuck valve you just mentioned, as I know these heads are a potential problem..



And Albino........I had that thought at one time, But I want the OBDII GT-40 in the truck, just because it will be easier to hook up. The Mustang will likely just get her block stroked, or lightly bored and rebuilt with forged parts.


I forgot to mention that I also ran a can of Powerfoam through the intake in January...... Not that it matters.......

 

[410Fortune]

compression tester is a handy tool to have, they are like $20.

IO read somewhere you can oput a tablespoon of ATF in the cylinder then hook up the compression test, something about doing this will help you determine if it is rings or a valve....I will see if I can find that post.

A gt-40P 5.0L from an Explorer will BOLT into your 99 = you lucky

I know a guy in CO selling one. interested? Now may be a good time!!

 

[dreamr]

compression tester is a handy tool to have, they are like $20.

IO read somewhere you can oput a tablespoon of ATF in the cylinder then hook up the compression test, something about doing this will help you determine if it is rings or a valve....I will see if I can find that post.

A gt-40P 5.0L from an Explorer will BOLT into your 99 = you lucky

I know a guy in CO selling one. interested? Now may be a good time!!

I wish I could, but realistically I just need to try and keep surviving at this point. That makes it my priority to fix my rig as quickly and cheaply as possible

 

[dreamr]

So.......a ?????

I believe that I have a timing chain rather than belt correct......I know I should know this, but my mind pulled a blank and I am lazzzzzyyyyyyyy

I was just out playing and fired it up. I climbed under to listen as previously I was very focused up top.

Since purchase I have had a knocking kinda sound that was totally random. This they said was a TSB for "Marbling Noise" and was normal

That noise is now exagerated, and I can hear what sounds like a not quite tight chain on a gear.

I believe my issues could easily tie into a timing problem ..right? Secondly at 100k it is feasible to need to replace this.....any comments on my latest doom and gloom theory.

 

[jayhawkexplorer]

Dreamr, you've got a timing chain, correct.

 

[dreamr]

Dreamr, you've got a timing chain, correct.

Yea I just had a brain fart at that particular moment.

I am currently hidden in the search engine......... reading about potential symptoms of such...........

 

[410Fortune]

If your chain went then your valve could be damaged.

I remembered how it works:
Pull the plug, put atf in the cylinder. Run compression test, if compression goes up it points to bad rings. If the compression stays the same it points to a stuck valve.

4.0L OHV chains and tensioners typically last well over 100K, but thats typically.

You can take the valve covers off and have a look see as well.
Internal rattle/knocking = UT OH.
I have a stethascope that works good for pinpointing a noise, also a tube of cardboard to the ear can help.

 

[dreamr]

I guess we'll see tomorrow, I picked up a compression tool today. Sadly I have never used one of these things before. Appears quite simple, but I'll wait untill I have someone to help tomorrow.........

I miss my truck
The mustang is fun and all, but the truck is well just a better daily driver and sadly I like her more......

 

[dreamr]

I know I know I just keep posting, but she decided to start blowing acrid white smoke when I started her up to try and locate the source of the rattling I described a couple posts up. Now I am beginning to think a head gasket or cracked head........Aieee..... I need to quit perseverating on this and just tear into it ehh.

 

[PicoG4]

What about an intake gasket/ vaccuum leak or a maf on its way out

 

[dreamr]

What about an intake gasket/ vaccuum leak or a maf on its way out

Intake gaskets and related vacuum leaks are feasable, The lines are all good, and the MAF is ok.

 

[dreamr]

Ok now I feel a bit stupid and embarrased

The compression test was normal, and we found nothing looking for intake leaks with the soapy water, Fuel pressure was fine.........

At this point you could find me on the cold ass garage floor with a stethescope listening for internal noises. Suddenly the space heater kicks on and the circuit breaks. In the darkness under my running rig I see this pretty flashing blue and go to investigate. The flashing is coming from the passenger side of the engine so I scoot out to look in the fenderwell, and what do I see?

The middle and rear spark plug wires have sparks coming out of the boots and arcing to the exhaust manifold . I of course slapped myself a few timers for being a complete idiot, but I had changed those plugs and bypassed each wire individually after the problem developed. There I suppose was my problem for I had 2 faulty witres not one. Switched back to my old Accel wires and she ran fine once she got all the unburnt crud out of the cylinders.......

God I feel so...........Newbie like...............

In the end I have learned and possibly became a bit more humble (stupid monkey missing the easy stuff)

-next time I check for spark in a vehicle with similar issues the whole wire set gets swapped for a test set.

-I will never buy AcDelco wires again no matter how broke I am (sadly this is not the first time I have learned this lesson)

-Now I know I have no Head related or internal issues except5 for whatever that "Marbling Noise" really is. I just don't buy the TSB saying it is normal.

One thing it still doesn't explain though was my plug #6 was so fouled after only 2500 miles.........
Or furthermore why did the wires fail after only 2500 miles..........they were not touching the manifolds. Nor are there any visible signs of damage, though there are apparently cracks in the boots upon close inspection.

Sorry to have wasted the time of those who tried to aid me in this diagnosis.