Driver door hinge

[sholzee]

1992 Explorer 4 dr, driver door is sagging and very hard to shut. I bought the hinges from ford and installed the lower, but I cannot get at the nut for the upper. It looks like the dashboard has to come out. I heard of people replacing only the pin and bushing. Ford does not sell a pin and bushing just the whole hinge. All help appreciated!!

 

[blinkgi]

door hinge

I had an accident a while ago and the guys that worked on it put on a new hinge. Although before it happened the door too was sagging. From what I have learned, you can put on a new hinge with the door on. Slide a jack under the door to hold upand take the old one off. If you cant reach it, you might need to take the lower one off too and just replace it like that. Ussually the problem one is only the top hinge. So you might have wasted your money on the bottom one. But don't quote me on any of that.

 

[JDraper]

According to Ye Olde Haynes Manual, and I quote "On models so equipped, remove the upper and lower hinge access plates and remove hinge to body bolts" It doesn't mention lifting out the dash anywhere

 

[Perry]

You can get to the hinges but it is a pain. You have to remove a little black plastic thing before you get to it. There are wires in there also that get in the way. There is a hole which I figure you have seen on the inside behind the e-brake.
You don't need to take the dash out.
Hope this helps.

 

[sholzee]

I got the lower changed ok, its the upper I am having trouble with. It originally looked like all the play was in the lower, but after I put it in now you can see the slop in the upper. The dash seems to get in they way of accessing the top hinges nut inside the vehicle.

 

[FMExplorer]

Sholzee,
Your door is sagging because of your hinge pin bushings. Take a dremel, cut the hinge pin and remove it and the bushings (they are breass I believe). Go to a parts store and buy pins and bushings to an F150 and install - about 20 minutes work...

Jon

 

[Spas]

*drags thread out into the light and brushes off dust*

FmExplorer- I bought some F150 pins to try them out on my 91, but I can't for the life of me figure out how I'm supposed to be able to dremel the old pins if I can't reach them. I've tried it while sitting inside on the doorsill with the door open, but there are brackets that block access to the pins and I have no room to get around them. Am I supposed to take the door off, take the hinges off, try to get at the pins through the front fender or what?

....Or am I missing something here? Sorry I don't have a pic to post to illustrate!

 

[VAHAM]

FmExplorer- I bought some F150 pins to try them out on my 91, but I can't for the life of me figure out how I'm supposed to be able to dremel the old pins if I can't reach them. I've tried it while sitting inside on the doorsill with the door open, but there are brackets that block access to the pins and I have no room to get around them. Am I supposed to take the door off, take the hinges off, try to get at the pins through the front fender or what?

....Or am I missing something here? Sorry I don't have a pic to post to illustrate!

I replaced mine by using my floor jack and a 2' long piece of 6 x 6 to securely support the opened door, along with some masking tape running the length of the door edge/front fender seam to protect the paint.
I removed the upper hinge bolts from the door side of the hinge, and slowly lowered the jack an inch or so, allowing room to drill out the upper hinge pin rivet/bushing from the top with a cordless drill and 3/8" bit.
I used a pin punch to chase out the old hinge pin, then drilled out the lower bushing with the now-removed hinge half clamped in a vise.
Once that was done, I rejoined the hinge halves with the new pin/bushings from the NAPA kit, jacked the door back up to realign the hinge by using the paint/dust as my realignment guide.
For the lower hinge, the procedure is similar, except you raise the door with the jack, rather than lowering it. Even so, you still cannot completely align the drill with the hinge pin. I discovered that I could drill at a slight angle (carefully) to remove the top bushing without causing any real harm to the hinge itself, other than slightly ovaling the top face of the hinge slightly (top 1/16" of metal hinge plate-no big deal). The replacement bushing covered the missing metal.
Total time, start to finish < 1 hour, and man, what a difference !!
Hope this is some help...

 

[MONMIX]

The hinge pin swap is the ticket.
I have swaped a few upper hinges but I used a whole lot of cuss words in the process.